GeneralDisorder

Likely the head gaskets were already going out the first time the coolant "dissapeared". That should have been a clue. There shouldn't be ANY coolant loss beyond what the EA81 pukes out to get to it's normal running range (no overflow bottle). For example - my 91 SS has a 94 TTW engine in it. I have NOT modded it much yet (I have all the parts to do so) because I first wanted to drive it daily and see what it's tendancies are toward fluids.... turns out it uses about a quart of coolant between an oil change - so guess what I'll be doing BEFORE it blows, and BEFORE I mod the piss out of it? I'm not dogging on you, but you really have to be more mindfull of your fluids and your overall engine condition before you go wheeling, and before you add mods. These situations just don't happen to me or a lot of the other folks around here - the number one rule of wheeling is.... don't wheel your daily, and especially don't wheel your only car - unless you like walking. Hell I won't even wheel with other people who don't have another rig. I'm not interested in feeling guilty about someone breaking their only ride pulling my dumb a$$ out of a huge mess. GD

Full voltage does NOT mean full current. You may still not be passing enough to get it going. The starters are easy to dissasemble and clean the contacts, replace the brushes, etc. But your problem is more likely to be the ignition switch/harness or the battery cables. As far as replacements - Subaru (as far as I know) still hasn't changed their starter design. EA81, EA82, EJ22, and EJ25 are all the same up to at least the late 90's - I know from experience. The really new stuff might be different but I suspect it isn't. GD

The A/C fan is there to cool the A/C compressor - nothing more. They are not designed to cool the engine, but on a 100 degree day in traffic the compressor needs airflow or you WILL be replacing it..... and till you do you'll be the guy with his windows down and sweat beading up in that 5 mph traffic jam. GD

To answer your question - the answer is no. The system could be low on charge and there is a pressure sensor that will not allow the compressor to start if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system. GD

The fuel pump relay on an SPFI rig is just a simple relay - the "pinout" is printed on the side of it. Besides that you should use the EJ fuel pump relay since you ought to be using the EJ fuel pump. The SPFI pump can work as well, but the EJ fuel pump relay can run it without issue. Same for the ignition relay (I'm assuming that's what you are refering to as "main" since there is no part by that name). You should use the EJ relay. GD

You have a single new axle installed amongst a forest of old, sloppy parts.... the results are often unpredictable in such cases. You may have a bad DOJ, or it could just be tight. Depending on how the new axle feels it may be that you need to replace the other axle and possibly some mounts as well. GD

As mentioned it's a 1.8 liter, single overhead cam, 8 valve engine. 9.0:1 compression ratio - they make 84 HP. Best thing you can do at a reasonable cost is replace the carb with either a Weber or the spfi injection used from 86 to 94. GD

If he tells us what body style he has then I can just give him the engine designation as well as the specs ect. You're going to make him go out there with a flashlight after 10 pm? That's kinda mean..... There was no SPFI in 85. It's either carbed, MPFI, or turbo. GD

What body style do you have? Wagon, sedan, etc? GD

You don't know that, but you can test your theory - gravity feed the carb with a funnel and some hose. GD

Only on 80/81 models. On 82 and newer the alternator is internally regulated and the fuel pump is controlled by a Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU) or by the ecu directly on injected models. Your lean condition is probably related to the either the carb or incomplete ignition due to the ignition coil not working properly with large amounts of AC current. Not the power output line - you need to check the sensing line going to the two pin plug on the back of the alt. It runs from the main junction to the back of the alt - through the fuse panel, idiot light and ignition switch. GD

It isn't - 80 through 82 used the 200mm clutch. 83 through 89 2WD's used the same 200mm clutch. It's the 83 and newer 4WD's that use the 225mm clutch. I have told you this - third time now. Call Discount Import Parts in Milwaukie or go to the dealer. This is not an unusual clutch - hell Autozone can get them easily. As for the interchangeability - the 200mm and 225mm interchange without issue. You have to use the flywheel, disc and pressure plate for the 200mm. Personally I throw the 200mm's in the trash as they are too small for a 4WD. GD

I wouldn't use a grade 8 bolt - it's got no spring to it and wouldn't withstand the push and pull of the splines sliding. The roll pin has a certain amount of flex in it. It would probably work for a while but I would take the axle back if it wasn't fitting properly. That's either the wrong axle or it was machined improperly. Either is more than just possible. GD

I don't beleive the fuel pump has anything to do with your problem. The alternator has only a few connections but the voltage sensing line is the most vulnerable to problems as it runs through the ignition switch, an idiot light, and a fuse on it's way from the main junction (the fuseable links). I would start there - check the entire circuit for voltage drop from the positive battery post to the back of the alt. If you see more than 0.10v drop across the circuit then you need to find the cause of the bad connection. A high resistance connection in the sensing circuit will cause the alt to overcharge thinking it's compensating for a drain where there is none. And make sure the battery is FULLY charged before installing a new alt. The alt is not meant to charge the battery from dead or nearly so - you will kill it doing that. GD

Perhaps you have a 25 spline axle and a 23 spline stub? That's the only way I know of for them to not line up. I've installed more axles than I care to remember (several dozen anyway) and I've never had one that didn't line up with at most a 180 degree turn. GD

Excelent - so what are you looking for in an exhaust then? There isn't any real performance to be gained being it's a non-turbo..... so are you looking for a different sound? GD

Why would you want a racing belt on a 2.2? That really makes no kind of sense. I doubt they even make one for the SOHC. GD

And you should be MUCH more concerned with head gaskets than with the exhaust. Trust me on this one. If they haven't been done then you are looking at doing them or having them done real soon. GD

They are a dime a dozen. Not worth converting IMO. GD

Why do you think this? GD

You have the splines 180 degrees out. It only lines up one way. GD

That is not the way the system works. You need ONE port on the filter. From there you T into two 5/8" hoses - one goes to the passenger side head. The other reduces to 1/4" ID then back to 5/8" and T's into the line from the drivers side head to the PCV valve. The key to making it work is the reduction to 1/4" ID to give an orificed vacuum break on the PCV line. Otherwise it will have too much suction and will pull oil out of the driver's side head. GD

Ah now i see - you are refering to the leading rod mount. I'll have a look at what can be done tonight when i have access to an EA82 body. GD

Good - where did you get it for $339? I have not see it priced that low before. Perhaps the economy has driven down the prices. GD

Yeah - the Hitachi's can be a pain to rebuild. It's hard to say what's wrong with the one's you have, but I'm sure a Weber will fix it and the added low-end torque and better throttle response is a bonus. You ordered the adaptor plate as well right? GD