GeneralDisorder

Probably not. I've run Weber's without the return line using the stock pump and never had any trouble. GD

Have you considered renting a cherry picker and pulling the engine? GD

The EJ swap is considerably more expensive and requires the ability to haul/move/lift a new engine into place. It is not the answer for a lot of folks. While I agree that it's an excelent option to have, it is not the *right* option for most people. In these economic times it is especially useful to have the option of a bolt-on fuel and ignition system that can be had for a reasonable price. The SPFI is the answer to those that are fine with the overall power and economy of their engine, but have issues with the factory Hitachi carburetor - a new (rebuilt) replacement of which is more expensive than the components for the SPFI swap. As for what parts you need - those are listed in my conversion write up. Pricing varies widely among yards, but expect to spend around $200 for the used parts and probably a bit more for the bits and peices you need to install it. All-in it's aound half the price of a new Weber generally. GD

Double check the filter irregardless of when it was last replaced. A clogged PCV system can soak them with oil in only a few miles. You do want to pour the gas directly into the carb - yes that's the hole in the middle under the air filter cover. No more than about a 1/4" stream for a couple secconds or you will flood it. The spark is easy - you just pull off a plug wire and insert a paper clip with one leg straightened out into the plug boot. Then you hold it near a ground while cranking the engine (two people). You will see a spark jump from the clip to the ground. Don't touch the clip while you are doing this or you will get shocked. GD

If you have no power to the pump while cranking but you do when you stop cranking then I would suspect the fuel pump control unit above the hood release handle on the driver's kick panel. It's more than a relay. GD

Unfortunately it could be many things and without gathering more information we really aren't going to be able to help you. You need three things for combustion: Air Spark Fuel Being that it simply stalled and was running fine prior, lets assume that it's mechanically sound.... The first one is easy - check the air filter. Is it oil soaked or extremely dirty? If so remove it and see if the engine starts. If not move on to Spark and Fuel. Check the plugs and make sure you are getting power to the coil. Remove a plug boot, insert a paper clip or extra plug and see if there is a nice hot spark when you place the electrode or clip near a ground (engine block or head). If you have both air and spark, then you need to verify that you are getting fuel. A simple test is to pour a thin stream of gasoline down the carb (you have a can for your lawnmower right?) while cranking it. If it starts for a few seconds you have a fuel delivery problem. Check these items and get back with us. We must have more information to help you. GD

Yeah that's true about the shipping from the dealer web sites. My local dealer gives me a wholesale rate that is within 5% of the cheapest online dealers so very often I just buy from them. And they are 5 minutes from my house. Rockauto is particularly bad on shipping it seems. I priced out rotors and pads recently for my 91 SS - nearly $60 in shipping. Perhaps the west coast is not in their back yard. With the older stuff it's a waiting game almost no matter where you buy the stuff. The dealer doesn't stock any of it and neither do any of the local parts houses. Still - a lot of the OEM parts just can't be beat for quality. I would often rather wait for the dealer to get my parts in than have to do the job again in a few thousand miles. GD

Ah yes - the lonesome and empty feelings of regret when the much maligned EA82T bites back. Much like a pitbull - many of them seem to strike without warning.... unless you count the warnings from this board of course. Unfortunately there is no way we can help without a lot more information. It could be almost anything - and given the primitive nature of the EA82T's systems - it's highly likely that it's more than one thing. GD

I thought there might be an issue getting the up-pipe past the head/crossmember/frame rail without jacking the engine up. Last time I messed with an EA82T was probably over 5 years ago and I pulled the engine wholesale so I can't recall off the top of my head. I know it's a pain to get the up-pipe in past the head and cross-member on my EJ22T, but that's a different animal with a 4 peice header system.... GD

Rockauto is good, but typically I use either my local dealer or one of the online dealers for most of my parts. I have not been overly impressed with much of the aftermarket stuff and the dealers pricing is actually decent. But of all of them, Rockauto is one of my top choices. Too bad their shipping rate is outragous. GD

It's possible, on the turbo's, that the engine may need to be jacked up off the cross-member to allow enough space for the header to be slipped in. But that's not a huge deal - you jack it using the oil pan and a block of wood. GD

Well - get out there tommorrow and remove the turbo and the exhaust headers. All that stuff goes back together after you have the head on. You are finding out that it's best to do it the right way the first time. That's just part of the learning process. Get the rest of the stuff off and out of your way so you can focus on doing the HG right. If you need someone to stop by this week and make sure you are moving in the right direction I could most likely do that. GD

There is nothing in a Loyale that you want. No D/R (they were push-button single range) and the EA82 is not the engine for you. Really wide, problematic timing belts and head gaskets, and only 10 more HP than the EA81. You want the EJ22. As for telling what engine you are lookingg at - on the passenger side front of the block casting will be the designation - it will be cast into the block. You will get a taste pretty quick for the body style that has the engine you want. It's going to be 90 through 94 Legacy's (not Loyale's). The D/R tranny will come from 85 to 89 GL's (same as the Loyale body). GD

I might be willing to assist sometime this next week after work. I've done my share of EA82 head gaskets. You should work on getting some of the stuff that's in your way moved - the turbo and the intake manifold are best removed as well as the exhaust headers and up-pipe. What specifically is the problem you are running into? Perhaps I could help get you back on track with a few pointers - gresham isn't far - I'm in West Linn. GD

Yes - that's exactly the combination I would use. You need: EJ22 (plus wireing - 90 to 94 are simplest). 5 speed D/R Adaptor plate EA82 Flywheel (redrilled to the EJ22 crank pattern) EA82 (or XT6, ect) clutch GD

There is no difference between the turbo and non-turbo EA81 gas tanks. There are 4 gas tank models - 2WD long wheel base (coupe, brat, wagon, sedan), 4WD long wheel base, 2WD short wheel base (hatch), and 4WD short wheel base. GD

Ah - I understand then. GD

What are you trying to show in the pictures? GD

The biggest hurdle is having custom axles made or making them yourself. No stock axle has both the correct outer joint to interface with the 5-lug knuckle and the correct length for the EA81 body. You can either have completely custom axles fabbed ($$$), or cut the two types of axles in half and join them with a sleeve - that means turning the OD down on both sections to accept a sleeve with a .001" interfefance fit. Then you heat the sleeve and install both sections into it and plug weld the sleeve to the axle shafts through prieviously made perforations in the sleeve. It's not a huge deal if you have access to a press, a lathe, and a decent welder. But if you don't it would be nigh impossible. Then there's the issue of the ball joints.... the XT6 knuckle uses a ball joint that isn't compatible with the EA81 control arm. This can be corrected with some machineing. GD

The only 5 speed D/R that was AWD (Full-Time 4WD really) was the 87 to 89 RX transmission. It is a form of AWD with a center locking diff that allows it to go from AWD to 50/50 4WD. Although the low range is only 1.2:1 and the diff ratio is 3.7 so it's really a very poor choice for off-road unless at *least* the low range is changed to 1.59:1 - but that requires a full transmission dissasemble and reassemble plus sacrificing a true 3.9 ratio D/R for it's low range gear set and input shaft assembly. GD

EA81's are not as easy as EA82's to swap. The transmission tunnel sheet metal is different and needs modification if there is no lift going in. Also the 2WD's did not have the gas tank with clearance for the diff so the whole tank has to be changed unless you go with more than 6" of lift to the rear diff. With some beating you can fit a 4WD transmission in but it's easier if you add some 1" spacers to the trans cross-member. As for the AWD/EJ swap - you need to make new 25 spline axles useing the DOJ's from an early 90's 2WD legacy or impreza on the EA81 axle shafts. GD

Agreed.... "does not run correctly" is worthless. Can't help you. I will say that the EA82T is the most problematic engine Subaru ever made. You will tear your hair out owning one. GD

That does suck, but not entirely unexpected with an EA82T. Sorry for your plight my friend. Rather than dumping a bunch of money into fixing it you might consider looking for an early 90's legacy - similar power without the turbo. Especially if you are going to be pulling trailers with whatever rig you end up with after this disaster. I know it's not a lot of help to tell you this, but that's a really poor rig to be towing with given the fragility of that engine model. FWIW if I had the parts and I was in your neck of the woods I would come help.... I know what it's like to learn the hard way. GD

Yes - it does sound like the float needle and seat are not doing their job of stopping the fuel flow. You need to dissasemble the carb and inspect your needle, seat and float. Something isn't right. Even if the return line were blocked, the fuel pressure is only about 2 psi so the needle would shut it off without issue. GD

Jets should be: 140/140 mains 170/160 air correctors 50 idle jets The rest aren't likely to affect much. Timing should be about 10 BTDC. (Stock is 8). Much higher than 10 or 12 and you'll get a lot of ping unless you are way too rich. GD