GeneralDisorder

All Subaru bolts/studs are reusable. Even the torque to yeild variety are rarely replaced in practice. In fact most of the techs just torque them to a ft/lbs value rather than following the manual procedure for the EJ's. For anything prior to the EJ's the studs/bolts are not called out for replacement unless they are damaged. GD

Any auto-parts store will carry some form of heli-coil. That is only one brand of thread repair. There's probably half a dozen at least. Just ask for a thread repair kit in the size of your bolt. Probably 10mm or 12mm - can't remember off the top of my head. This is common with aluminium and you should inspect the threads carefully and repair any that are damaged prior to attempting to install the head a second time. GD

Remove the head and install a heli-coil. You'll need another head gasket if it's been partially torqued. GD

Let us know what grease you use for the rack and pinion gears. I checked into it a few years back and the grease was insanely expensive IIRC. It looks like a lithium base as it's white. It's also quite thick. When I talked with Lithia they had no clue as to the grease I should use as they claim to have never rebuilt one as they almost never fail and when they do they are replaced, not rebuilt. I would be very careful about the installation of the teflon hydraulic seals as well - mine leaked worse when I put it together after an investigatory dissasembly than it did before I touched it. The rack tube may need to be honed or replaced if it's got any grooving or pitting damage. Also remember to order new lock washers as you will be destroying most of them in order to get the rack apart. GD

+1 to the hole being under the intake manifold. I am one of the few around here that have personally done it. The first engine in my lifted wagon went too long between oil changes (filters really) before I owned it - it chews up the oil pumps when the oil bypasses the filter and eventually leads to low oil pressure and rod failure. It's generally always the #3 rod that goes as it's farthest from the oil pump. If it truely is a rebuild than the painted block screams amature to me - it's aluminium and they are not painted by any of the major rebuild houses nor were they painted from the factory. Sounds like what we call a "rattle can rebuild" in my line of work . People who are concerned with the appearance of the block (cast iron understandably the exception) are generally not the same people that do quality rebuilding of engines. For one thing almost anyone that turns wrenches for a living would just have it media blasted (or do it themselves) and leave it shiny silver. And once the block halves are cleaned and honed - ready for assembly - they are usually quite clean and nice looking without further modification. GD

Your idle speed is too high - you may have vacuum leaks. Change the plugs and wires as sugested. Adjust the idle air control valve to get the idle back where it should be. Change the oil and the air filter while you are at it and make sure the PCV is working and all the lines are clear. You really aren't all that far from passing - just a few maintenance items may get it under control. If that doesn't work buy a cheap 3-way catalytic coverter off ebay and add it to the mid-pipe section of the exhaust. That will get it under control for sure and is definately the cheapest way to go if you can do a little rudimentary welding and fitting. Less than $50 for a sure-fire fix is worth it when you consider that it may take hundreds of $$ and many man-hours to make it pass by only fixing the stock equipment. Not that it can't be done, but if it otherwise runs fine, how much time and money do you want to throw at a sub-$1000 car? GD

Unfortunately that only works on the 2WD consoles. The 4WD consoles have less room behind them where the map pocket is/was. I am in the process of doing exactly this modification on the 4WD console and I have to make about a 1/2" spacer for the deck to make it work. Not a big deal for me, but might be an issue for some. GD

The (sometimes easier) option for those that aren't able to fix it with a new cable or don't want to R&R the ignition switch is to install a relay powered from the original solenoid signal. The signal has enough current to pull in the relay and the relay can provide full current to the solenoid. This is actually the best option (and how it should have been built in the first place) as the wireing doesn't have to carry the full current of the starter solenoid. GD

Generally there are two causes: 1. bad main battery cables 2. bad ignition switch/wiring. the switch or wiring cant pass enough current to pull in the solenoid hard enough to connect the contacts. GD

if its not running when warm (choke off) then you have either a vacuum leak or the carb is plugged up somewhere. Its probably not the fuel filter and definately not the cat. GD

It's the other way around - the 4WD shafts are larger on the EA81's. You need the legacy DOJ's to fit the EA81 4WD shafts. There's a post about it within the last few months detailing the exact combination. But the EA82T DOJ's don't fit *any* EA81 shaft - otherwise the conversion would be simple and obvious and few would even ask the question I suppose. GD

You need to bleed the air from the cooling system. Put the vehicle on a hill with the nose up and burp the air out by massageing the upper and lower radiator hoses - running the engine a little with the cap off helps as well. It's tricky and takes some work with the EA82's. GD

On some models it's easy to make the mistake of routing it over the steering shaft and heater core hoses. I've seen more than one mis-routed in this way. GD

I have had zero issues with the EMPI axles on my hatch. I replaced the engine and trans mounts at the same time. I drive it almost daily to/from work - probably around 5,000 on them now. 240k on the car. I think a lot of the problems people have with axles is due to replacing just *one* axle. If you address the entire system - engine mounts, trans mounts, both axles, cone washers, wheel balance, engine idle..... etc.... you will have much fewer problems. Vibration can come from either the road or the drivetrain and the less you have the longer your axle joints will last. To date I have never replaced the same axle on the same car more than twice. And since I went to the GCK's, and then the EMPI's when GCK dissapeared.... I have replaced not a single one. Even the GCK's in my 5" lifted wagon are holding strong. GD

I have used the mounts from rock-auto and they were correct for an EA81 4 speed. I'm fairly certain there is no difference. The automatic's were entirely different as are the EA82 mounts but all the 4/5 speed EA81 mounts should be the same. GD

Valve stem seals. GD

There are two types of 4WD rear wheel bearings. There's a three-peice and a single piece unit - one was superceeded by the other in the mid 80's. It does sound like you were given the 2WD bearings. GD

You have a short in the ignition circuit. Sorry but that's really all anyone here is going to be able to tell you beyond how to operate a DMM and do basic electrical troubleshooting. GD

Just switch it to an internally regulated unit. There's been posts on doing this before - a search for them would be your best bet as it's been years since I've messed with a pre-82. GD

Dealer is the only source. GD

All of them will fit, but the non-turbo pistons will not handle much boost. Collapsed ring lands are usually the result. Additionally the EA81 pistons will not have the valve cut-outs that the EA82 pistons have so in the event of a timing belt failure you will have piston/valve contact. Invest in forged pistons if you are looking for higher boost - non of the stock stuff is worth the trouble. GD

EA82T cups don't fit the EA81 shafts. You need the Impreza/Legacy 2WD inner cups IIRC. GD

That's an excelent method if you have the time and the inclination to remove the knuckles. I leave them on the car and have the whole job done in a few hours (axles, bearings, etc). GD

Agreed - your alternator is putting out AC voltage due to a bad diode bridge. Replace the alt. The AC may have killed something else as well - you'll have to replace the alt and troubleshoot from there. GD

Remember to run it UNDER the steering shaft and the heater core hoses. GD