GeneralDisorder

Just about anything works. Most of the stuff I use is either plastic or brass because that's what is commonly availible. If it's done right and the flow through the system is unrestricted, there shouldn't be any buildup in the PCV system. The stock lines are often clogged with carbonized oil due to the PCV filter being dirty inside the airbox. GD

The "factory" EA81 CC would be what's in the book. I would surmise that your two examples were "dealer" installed CC. Either Subaru or some knowledgable technician realized that you could use the EA82's CC setup with the EA81 and thus you have the beaded chain EA82 variety.... or they are entirely aftermarket which is also possible. The factory CC on my 84 wagon has the nasty vacuum pot/dual cable arrangment under the hood - horrible system. GD

Only if you installed a 1/4" orifice directly after the secondary "PCV" filter. It is the reduction in the tube ID that keeps the PCV working but not sucking so hard that it pulls oil from the valve cover. You can get the same effect by using some stock PCV couplings that are reduction T's and adding a second elbow from the bottom of the Weber filter that is either a 1/4" ID tubeing fitting (hose barb) or reduces down to 1/4" ID before joining the line going to the PCV valve. There is no need, nor is it at all desireable to have seperate filters for air and PCV. Makes it difficult to seal the engine up if you want to go with a snorkel at a later time too. GD

The short answer is there are no direct bolt-in applications. At the least you will have to change the turbine discharge flange completely and modify the turbine inlet flange. The compressor discharge will change from pointing at 12 o-clock to either 1:30 or 3:00 depending on which turbo you switch out to. The compressor inlet will change with the US market TD's or is similar if not identical with the VF-11 or the JDM TD05-16G..... Modifying the EA82T's though is almost an excersise in futility. You won't get where you want to go without redesigned heads, o-ringing the block, and a custom head stud set. The cost of just those items far outweighs the cost of installing a newer, better performing engine. GD

Yellow wire to the negative coil terminal, black w/white wire to the positive. You should switch to the coil that's designed for whatever distributor you use. The resistance values for the primary and secondary windings are carefully picked to match the module in the distributor. GD

It's not obvious from the diagram, but #5 and #6 do perform an important function - they provide a metered amount of filtered air to the PCV stream to limit the amount of oil the PCV system can suck from the driver's side valve cover (technically refered to as a "vacuum breaker"). The metering is done via the size of the hose they used - I don't beleive there is an orifice in that line. Additionally, hooking the two PCV hoses together before the filter causes the whole system to break down. There needs to be a loop for fresh air to be sucked from the air-cleaner, through the crank-case, and then into the PCV valve. With them connected together the PCV valve will simply suck fresh air and never remove acidic crankcase gases. There is no way to "replumb" the PCV system and have it work correctly - you need the small hose to limit the action of the system (or it sucks up lots of oil), and you need the large hoses to flow in the correct direction - that happens in the stock system, but will not if you change it. GD

There's no reason to use "points" style units. The electronic, breakerless two-wire units from any EA82 carb model will work just fine. Points were used through 78 or 79 on EA71's and earlier. There are very, very few of them around and they would require a gear change to fit the EA82.... which may or may not be feasible depending on their shaft/housing design. GD

Thus my sugestion to use the Subaru tool - it's much thinner. Also I'm sure you could grind (or turn) the socket down or buy a thinner plug socket from a "professional" tool dealer such as snap-on, mac, etc. Cheap sockets are often too thick for this sort of thing. I wouldn't sugest trying it with the socket already on the plug - there just too much risk in damaging the aluminium threads in the head with the steel plug threads. GD

Retro-fit the pedal assembly from an EA82 - the CC is operated entirely inside the cabin and has no effect on the cable to the carb. GD

More work actually. The pushbutton requires more wireing and vacuum hose/solenoid hookup than the d/r. The linkage is the same either way except for the d/r you make a two cuts to the 4WD shift rod (the EA81 shift rod) - removing 1" of it and then welding it back together. It then pins to the transmission the same way it did to the 4 speed. GD

They are by no stretch of the imagination "fast". They would probably keep up with a stock EJ22 legacy wagon. The EA82T is....well it's probably better than you do a search, but it's not the reliable work-horse that your non-turbo is. As for more things to fail - yeah - about twice as many and twice as likely. They are junk, and to be avoided at all costs IMHO. I would rather have a Justy (except the CVT version). GD

I have never had an issue with one - I generally use about a 12" extension bar to weave down through the wires and hoses. If all else fails.... try using the subaru plug socket from the tool kit included with the car GD

There are so many variables that affect mileage that it's almost worthless to talk about it. Having been here many years and having owned more EA series vehicles than I care to remember, I can tell you that ultimately, if you setup everything correctly, you can get about 27 to 28 on a typical tank of gas for a 4WD EA81 . A bit more in the summer and a bit less in the winter. 2WD's are up around 31 to 32. You will, of course, have to shift the whole range down if you have high ethanol content in your local fuel. You'll lose about 2 MPG for every 10% of the stuff. GD

There aren't any. That's why the metric rims are worthless. GD

I doesn't matter - you can pick either one. There are many little differences thoughout the years on the EA82's but for the parts you are likely to be able to buy in the aftermarket there aren't any that really matter. The only one I can think of off the top of my head would be the radiator and lower radiator hose - those changed in the middle of the '91 model year. Everything else on your engine never really changed from 87 to 94. Everything that's not an engine or a common maintenance part isn't going to be availible in the aftermarket anyway and the dealer only needs to know the year - they aren't going to ask you for the VIN. GD

Quality axles run about $75 give or take. Used are a crapshoot and most reman'ed are junk. The cost of owning a Subaru and if you don't want to do them again in short order I sugest you rethink your purchasing priorities. Replacing the cone washer's is also a good idea (~$12 each from the dealer). Quality parts cost money - that's the price of driving a car. You can get by on used stuff if you have plenty of time to spend on your car - but time is money and in the case of many of us - time is more valuable than the difference in cost between a junkyard axle at $25 and a brand new one for $65.... not to mention the headache of pulling the thing from a yard. EMPI is my current brand of choice for axles and I get a good price from my local EMPI/VW aftermarket dealer. GD

It's either a bad sending unit or bad gauge in the cluster. There's specs in the FSM for what resistance values you should apply to verify operation of the gauge. GD

$56.00.... http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=OTC7535&source=froogle&kw=OTC7535 GD

Great info! Thanks man. GD

If the clock isn't remembering it's time then one of the set's of bullet connectors may be related, but otherwise those are almost surely option wires that you don't have. They only make a few harnesses, and if you look on the dash you should have a tag that says "equipped for installation of optional AC", etc. Lots of options could be dealer installed or factory or not present at all. But the wireing for them exists to facilitate not ripping the car entierly apart when a customer just wants AC on his base model ride. GD

Early and late ported vacuum ports. The one with the screw is for the EGR (late), and the other is for the vacuum advance pot. GD

Flat side (spring side) should always face the bearings. On some styles of seals you have to cut a lip off the inner seal or it will "ride" funny on the axle joint cup.... but that may be an EA81 thing.... I can't recall off the top of my head. As for the bearings - pressing them in/out is entirely uneccesary. The interferance fit is not that tight. You drift out the old bearings with a punch and drift in the new one's the same way - being careful to line them up straight as they go in and working your way around the bearing outer race with a brass drift. As a rule you ALWAYS install bearings by pressing/pounding/whatever on the race that will not transmit the force through the balls. If you have to work with that race (As when installing the axles) then a puller should be used that applies even, steady force. Any hard jolts will work-harden the spots where the balls contact the race and cause premature bearing failure. GD

BTW - these often are "stuck" due to many soda's being spilled into the center console. A good cleaning often fixes the interlock solenoind. Removing it works too and means you never need to use the button or step on the brake - which is the way I prefer it anyway. GD

Even if it weren't the same pulse width it wouldn't matter. The ECU is only looking at whether you are moving or not moving. It doesn't care what the actual speed is. It's only real function is to increase the idle slightly when the car is moving to lengthen clutch life. Anything that generates a square wave at the correct voltage peak works - as it happens both use the same voltage and pulse width making them fully and completely compatible without any modifications. GD

No - the VSS is part of the speedo head inside the cluster on all older Subaru's. The wire is a yellow/red stripe comming out of the gauge cluster (going to FI, CC, nothing, etc). GD