GeneralDisorder

It's a matter of swapping or modifying the entire transmission - the "low range" is not a transfer case at all, but rather a split input shaft that transfers power through a low range gearset or straight through depending on the selector lever. It has nothing at all to do with the 4WD system - in fact you *can* have an EA transmission in 2WD Low (front wheel drive) if you shift in the low range gearset and not the 4WD transfer gear. I suspect that what you want is something like the european AWD dual-range transmissions but you'll find they are prohibitively expensive here. Using an EA transmission can be done with an adaptor plate but this has it's drawbacks as well - those transmissions were designed to handle 90 HP in a lighter car and most have hundreds of thousands of miles on them now. Rebuilding them, while possible, is again prohibitively expensive. You have to ask yourself - how bad do you really want low range in a vehicle that probably doesn't need it? You are looking at several thousand dollars in parts to do it right and a lot of custom labor.... for what? GD

You can try the dealer, but otherwise you'll have to find it here or at a junk yard. GD

Changing the exhaust size does little without supporting mods - if you change it at all, only change it from the collector back or you will destroy the scavenging. The distributors are all the same - changing to a "2WD" unit will make no difference in the advance curve. This is just an old wives tale. If you want more power you should swap in an SPFI short block and change the cams. You could probably get around 100 HP from an SPFI shorty, cams, collector-back exhaust (gut the cat), and properly tuned Weber. The SPFI engine was 90 HP to start (higher comp.) to your 85's 84 HP. GD

Just buy another one and swap the dash - that's the only VIN they ever look at or care about. Hell - someone on the board here might have a junker with a title and a dash . GD

8 is a model designation code - it indicates something about your region/engine/transmisson combination. It flashes if there are no stored fault codes. What you are seeing is the computer telling you "all is well". GD

1. The EA82T is pretty much a craptastic engine. 2. If the turbo really is bad - what caused this? They rarely fail if they have proper oil and coolant supply. There are no bearings - they are oil flooded bushings and as such there should be NO metal to metal cantact inside the turbo - again they don't fail unless they have been starved for oil/coolant, or plain run too hot (overheated engine.... see #3). 3. If the turbo has "failed", then likely the engine has as well, or isn't far behind it. GD

On the one hand I'll say that you are correct to a point on the angle issue but you REALLY have to be at bad angles for the Weber to stall out. Mostly you just lose a bit of power. I've always been able to drive away - except when some debris gets stuck in the air corrector's. I would caution you on used Weber's - they are mostly a fun guessing game concerning what the previous mechanic's that owned it did to it/with it. They often have bad throttle shaft bushings and weird jetting issues. Even the new one's aren't immune to these issues, but at least you won't have worn out parts. GD

Mileage should be around 27 to 30 with a properly operating feedback system. Although there are other factors - the engine in my hatch (which I drive almost daily - 230k on it) has low compression in the #2 cylinder and gets the same with the Weber it has now as it did with the Hitachi that I used to write the post that you refered to above. It's right at 25 MPG either way due to the low cylinder. Sounds like your choke is not working or your high-idle adjustment is out. It should idle around 1500 RPM till it warms up. Frankly unless you have the capitol to spend on a Redline Weber kit, I would probably rejet the carb you have or find another Hitachi that's not a feedback model. If you can find one with a good throttle shaft that would be ideal. I might be able to scrounge together a set of jets for you but I'll have to look at what I have. I'm really moving away from carbs altogether as the supply of SPFI parts around here is excelent and the prices are insanely low - all our u-pick yards changed ownership and the prices went way down. And when those parts run out the future for me is all EJ engines in my EA bodies anyway. I'm building one last EA81 because I already have all the parts besides the cam - after that it's just not worth the bother with all the EJ22's out there for dirt cheap. GD

Offer $100. That's my top price for a 5 speed, 4WD, EA82. If it's not a 5 speed with 4WD, then I won't take it for free. For comparison, someone just GAVE me a 93 legacy LS wagon - 4WD, Automatic (yuck) - just needed an alternator and an exhaust leak fixed. I've owned more than two dozen Subaru's, and the most I've ever paid was around $1500 for my 91 SS.... but it's rare and desireable. Seriously - put the word out that you are interested and before you know it someone will be calling you to haul one off. I have a reputation around my peers and coworkers for being "that crazy Subaru guy" and the damn things breed like rabbits around my place. I rarely have to actually pay for one. All you have to do is wait. GD

The EA81's changed cables in '83.5 My write up on this covers the differences: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html ALWAYS buy your cables from the dealer. Aftermarket are inferior and you probably won't get the right one. GD

As long as it's driveable it should be fine. Once the engine is running there is a vacuum in the intake manifold and the carb that keeps fuel from leaking out through the shaft. It's never going to cause you much of a problem unless it gets worn to the point where the engine won't idle right. Incidentally the throttle-base (the part with the shafts and the butterfly's in it that's worn on your carb) is seperate from the whole carb and is actually the source of the statement "my carb is worn out". It's the only thing on them that really can wear out anyway. You can find a good throttle base at the junk yard or find one and have it rebushed by a good automotive machine shop. Should be less than $100. You would also want to buy a rebuild kit and go through the carb as well - you'll need the gasket between the carb and the throttle base anyway. GD

Yes - it's quite possible that would be the case with the non-turbo's. My 91 SS is a pain the in a$$ to get to because of the additional plumbing and the water tank for the turbo. I haven't had to replace one on a non-turbo so I simply didn't think about it being any different (the sensor's are the same). Thanks for pointing that out. In fact mine is so difficult to access that I didn't put it back in the same location. I found another threaded boss that's easier to access and installed it there instead. Doesn't make any difference apparently. Other's on the legacycentral board have moved them as well. GD

Your's is much more complex because you have a feedback EA81. Eliminating all that stuff, while possible, will drop your fuel mileage through the floor as the feedback system will not be able to accurately meter the fuel. The carb is jetted differently to accomidate the feedback control system - it's jetted rich and the feedback system meter's air to the air correctors to lean it out for proper operation. Without the feedback computer metering the air you get full rich operation all the time. Your options are: 1: Rejet the carb to non-feedback specs. 2: Weber. 3: SPFI. If you choose #1 you can replumb the carb as in my previous post to operate without the extra plubming and components. GD

Follow Ed's advice - that is you best bet at finding the problem. I know it's tempting to *think* it's something associated with the engine swap but it's entirely possible that it's unrelated. You need to start from the battery terminal reading and follow a procedural path that you know will located the problem or narrow the search for it to only one or a handful of circuits. While the EA81's electrical system is simple, there are still about two dozen circuits in the car and just about any of them could cause a battery drain under the right circumstances. The problem may not even be in the engine bay. I feel that your frustation comes primarily from not accepting a procedure that will yeild data to help in solving the problem. I find it much less stressful if I come up with a plan before I ever turn a wrench - following the plan and then analyzing the results of the tests will get you closer to a solution much faster than what you have been doing. That, at least, is progress and sometimes even a little progress feels better than hours of shot-gunning parts at something. GD

You are much better off getting one from the dealer - they are $50, difficult to access, and most used ones are also bad. They replaced the original knock sensors with a new version because they have a high likelyhood of cracking. GD

That's the secondary throttle shaft - the bushing is shot. Short answer - get a new carb or convert to a weber, SPFI, etc. GD

It's just tubing - buy it in 10 or 20 foot lengths and bend it or have it bent to your specs. Weld up your bent sections and weld on the flange from the old pipe. If you can't do any of that then have a muffler shop do it. But choose wisely - there are good shops with people that can weld and there are a TON of bad shops that have no such tallent. GD

Junkyard is you best bet. At this point the value of an '88 is going to be less than the cost of a new/reman pump. As long as you make sure it has the correct quantity of comp. oil when you charge it the pumps almost never fail. GD

Replace your plugs with NGK's. And STOP posting in the old gen forum. Go where the knowledge is - NEWER GENERATION. GD

It will make almost no difference to move the mounting points - the effect of it being harder to twist is largely offset by it not twisting as far the shorter you make the lever. If you want to improve the sway characteristics of the EA81's, install an EA82 rear sway bar - all you have to do is cut the brackets from a set of EA82 rear trailing arms and weld them to the EA81 arms in the same posistions. You also have to shorten the sway bar ends by a couple inches but it doesn't affect the mounting geometry or it's effectiveness. GD

For a 91 it would be white, or grey if it's been replaced with the upgraded version that doesn't crack. You'll need a 12mm socket, wobbly, and a 6" or longer extension bar to reach it. It's basically under the driver's side of the intake manifold. And this is the older gen forum - your legacy is a new gen - you should not be posting here. GD

Remove the battery and put an ohmeter between the battery terminals. Pull the fuse the controls the clock power and there should be no continuity between the terminals (unless you have a radio that has been installed with a constant power tap.... usually off the ignition harness. If that's the case you will have to disconnect that as well). If there is still a path to ground somewhere - start pulling fuses till you isolate the offending circuit. Then you can determine from a schem. what devices are powered from that circuit and check each one and it's connections. GD

The kits for the Hitachi carbs are universal. They should fit a range of model years. But since you asked you have a variant of the DCP-306. But it shouldn't matter - just tell the parts people you have an '84 and it's a two-barrel. GD

Why didn't you drill/tap the holes for the power steering pump? Anyway - without splitting the block some of your metal from honing is now inside the engine. That isn't real good for it. What type of hone did you use? What grit? And what angles? Have you done a compression check? New rings often are hard to start till they seat in. If you did the hone properly they should seat within a few thousand miles - unless you used chrome faced rings, in which case you may have to wait a lot longer. GD

You installed new rings without honing the cylinders? (you couldn't have left the distributor in place unless you didn't split the block - thus it sounds like you installed rings without honing). Did you gap the rings or even pay attention to where the gaps were in relation to each other?? If that's the case it's probably hard to start because the rings will never seat and you have poor compression. GD