GeneralDisorder

probably means six years of freezing temperatures and bad coolant blew out a freeze plug. When they pop out all the coolant drains into the pan. GD

Yeah - if you had asked here first you wouldn't be in this mess. Unfortuntely that scenario is well known. They do fit - they just aren't adjustable - KYB doesn't care about the problem it would seem. GD

Cracked heads are impossibly rare on EA81's. If it has overheating problems it is very likely the radiator, thermostat, or air in the system. If you are losing coolant it could be the head gasket or it could be a freeze plug has come out. Is it burning coolant or do you have coolant in the oil? The engine in your '82 is quite reliable and not prone to any particular faiure - generally what gets them in the end is lack of lubrication system maintenance. If it has had poor oil change history then the oil pump is likely to need replacing as the filters clog and the bypass valve inside the filter protects the engine by allowing oil to bypass the clogged element - resulting in wear and failure of the oil pump. GD

Professional or not, if they don't use a bore plate to pre-stress the block it's almost a gaurantee it will fail. GD

Is it on the drivers-side top, or smack in the middle of the top? GD

All the Subaru power steering systems I've used and maintained have been plain old ATF (and I prefer it that way). That includes EA81's, EA82's(T), and EJ22's(T). GD

You can't bore a sleeved aluminium block without a bore-plate to hold it in the torqued posistion relative to the other case half and the head. If you bore it any other way there is a high probability that at least one piston sleeve will spin. That almost always means it's not worth it to bother. Get another block and do a light hone. GD

LOL for the justy steering wheel, pimped out pedal pads, and legacy overflow bottle. Kids these days..... jeez. GD

This an EA82 then I take it? I did something similar with my EA81 wagon - 40 MPH, washboarded trail, etc. But in my case it bent the bottom of the strut like a bannana. The fix is to install a second shock - a mounting point will have to be fabbed to the control arm. Extra dampening will prevent it from slamming the wheel up too hard and fast and breaking stuff. Rguyver has done this to a couple different wheeling rigs after he discovered this propensity while jumping his EA81 hatch 20+ feet in the air GD

I haven't yet, but I wouldn't hessitate to do it. Heat should be no problem. There's plenty of other electronics under the hood anyway. I've also seen it done with an EJ22 swapped Brat a few years back at one of the shows. It's a good location - under the dash gets pretty hot as well due to the lack of airflow, hot electrical components, and proximity to the heater core. GD

With a Weber installed, it cannot affect performance in any way. It will continue to complain through the lamp and it will continue to power the fuel pump if you just leave it be. You can disconnect the lamp ground at the ECU if you want the light to go away. Accel coils are junk - made in mexico. They have a high likelyhood of failure and can cause premature failure of the ignitor in the distributor as it was not designed to switch the higher current spark they produce. It is also uneccesary as the stock ignition system is fully up to the task required of it unless you slap on a turbo and start boosting past about 5 pounds or so. The stock Hitachi coil is excelent quality and I highly reccomend sourcing a new OEM Hitachi unit if you suspect a problem with the original. Toss the Accel in the trash or at the guy that sold it to you if you prefer. GD

I stick to the bigger yards that have price listings posted on the wall. I don't like being looked up and down then charged "white guy" priceing. I don't have the time nor the inclination for haggling with folks that have fewer digits or appendages than I do (I retain all factory equipment despite years of abuse zzz). The LKQ yard in Sherwood is a good choice with plenty of SPFI vehicles. You could get everything you need there for probably under $200.... maybe a lot under depending on who rings it up. GD

The stock O2 sensor is a narrow-band and is entirely worthless as a tuning aid for a Weber. It would have to be replaced with a wideband+controller (about $250 minimum) and then the only thing you really need is the bung to screw the sensor into (which can be added to a non-O2 exhaust for about $2 and an hour of R&R, cut, weld, etc). GD

On EA82 cars the feedback ECU is much more complex than the EA81 system. Most of it's additional complexity will not be a problem but it does control the fuel pump so you will have to reroute power to the pump through a non-feedback fuel pump control unit. It's not as difficult as it sounds - just pickup an FPCU at the junk yard and splice into the 4 or 5 wires it needs to run. Most if not all of them are accesible near the ECU under the dash. GD

Almost every air-suspension system Subaru ever made has failed by now. Amazing your's hasn't been converted already. My 92 LS had it but was converted before I got it. Ripped out the pump and reservior when I replaced the driver's side fender. As said - pull out the struts and replace with a normal coil/shock setup. It will be much cheaper and will keep you sane. GD

Swap it to an EJ22. EA82's suck all-around. GD

I'm sure it could be, but you would have to build appropriate adapters to jack them in and out with all-thread. The key to getting it done without destroying something is for everything to be 100% even and aligned. That is almost impossible without building a jig to hold the parts because as soon as you start wailing on it with a dead-blow you'll mis-align it again. So you would need a method ivolving a jack-screw or as you say using a press. I have access to a 100-ton hydro-press at work so it's often easy for me to say "do it this way" as I forget how hard it was before I had such tools around. But I have done a lot of things with a bit of tubing, some washers and left-handed all-thread. It's amazing what can be done with a simple puller and some ingenuity. GD

Sounds to me like your idle circuit is plugged. Pull out the idle jet and make sure the tiny holes on the sides and tip of the jet aren't blocked. The carb is not equipped with an idle cut solenoid is it? Not idleing below 1000 RPM is a sure sign that nothing is getting through the idle circuit as you are having to open the primary throttle plate and you are limited in how slow the engine can run off the primary as it will not create a enough low pressure in the venturi to pull fuel through the primary nozzle. Where in the willamette valley are you? I'm in the West Linn, Oregon City area. I could probably solve your problem in an hour or less. You don't need a fuel pressure regulator, and you probably don't need to tear the carb completely down again. GD

Why not just buy the bearings from a bearing house and press them into the pulley's? Might have to fab some adaptors to press the old bearings out or the new one's in, but it would save quite a bit of money I should think. I've looked at the EA82 one's and I would do it in a second if I ran EA82's and if the kit's weren't cheap as dirt. For an ER27 I would do it for sure. GD

Inserting a quarter between the valve and the pipe going to the head is easier and quicker. GD

The AAV does not affect backfireing. You need to fix your exhaust leaks in the y-pipe and repair, replace, or eliminate the air suction valve(s). GD

Dealership. GD

So fuel is dripping from the main nozzle into the primary venturi during idle correct? One of these is true: 1. Throttle plate is not fully closed. 2. Blockage in the air corrector or emulsion tube. 3. Float level too high. 4. Float needle is not sealing. 5. Fuel pressure is too high. GD

EA82 adaptors are two-peice. Use a sheet of glass, some 600 and then some 1200 grit paper. Lube it with WD-40 and clean the paper often with WD-40 (don't clean it with solvent or you will destroy the paper). Also make sure your bolts aren't bottoming out or otherwise interfering with the fit. I've used the EA82 two-peice Redline adaptor several times without issue but I know that the bolts it comes with are not obviously marked as to where they go. You will also crack the adaptor if you aren't careful with bolt installation. GD