GeneralDisorder

The lines can be shortened - it would be best if you got hold of a deutsch plug kit so you can do it right but it's not neccesary. The sheilded wire is easily obtained from any electrical supply - just specify the conducter size and number. It's only there to prevent RF interferance. GD

You have an automatic non-turbo - why would you bother? There's nothing to be gained here. GD

Legacy radiators are larger, but I don't know off-hand if one would fit. A lot of people spend a bit more on 2 row radiators for their EA82 turbo applications and I would assume that if the legacy radiator was a bolt-in this would be a more common upgrade. If you search around online you can find 2-row replacement's for a decent price. These radiators are small and it's often more to repair one that to just get a new one. GD

It does if the outboard splines are rusted together as often happens due to their being lower and more exposed to road spray. Removing the cup from the diff side and removing the stub axle and axle as a unit from the control arm facilitates bringing it to the bench where you can more easily use the hot wrench to get it loose. Under normal circumstances though you are correct. Just not for this individual. GD

Pressure test the cap first. GD

You can't check the axle nuts without removing the cotter pin - they should be torqued to 150 ft/lbs. The cone washer is directly under the nut & spring washer. GD

As most of us who have wheeling machines have added structural steel to the diff hanger, dismounting it is rather involved. I sugest you learn the corrent method which is to lower the control arm after unboling the coil-over shock mount. Pull the axle off the diff.... or the stub - doesn't really matter. Drive the stub through the bearing assembly with a copper or brass hammer or drift. Leaving the axle attached if you could only free the diff side is acceptable at this stage but it will have to be dissasembled on the bench for installation purposes - which may require a blue wrench if you have serious rust issues. Remove the ring nut, and drive out the bearings or bearing assembly - depending on which you find in there. Assembly is the reverse. GD

Lug nuts and/or axle nut's are loose. If it's the axle nuts then you likely need to replace the cone washers and possibly the hubs they ride in to get them to stay tight and not wear/loosen with time. You can't simply tighten the axle nut if the cone washer is worn as it has no mechanical locking abilities if the taper is trashed. It will spin, wear, and loosen till you replace it. And find anther shop or do it yourself next time. They are morons. GD

There's plenty of availible FI stuff here on the board. I can have dozens of sets on any given day if I want them here in the NW. You should try the wanted forum as I'm sure someone can help you out. GD

You are correct - it will only flow when the system is hooked up. There must be pressure differential to create the flow. If you break the system by removing a hose it will not be flowing. As to the pressure build-up, it doesn't take much at all. I caused a similar problem with an EA82 of mine when I installed a Weber and temporarily rubber-banded a red shop rag over the PCV hose as I didn't have a T readily availible. The drivers side cam seal popped out. The rag was not balled up - it was drawn tight across the hose opening and I could blow through it. But it was still too restrictive. Are you SURE you don't have any carbon build up inside the lines or connections? Just because you can blow through them doesn't mean their full inside diameter is clear. I've seen them plug up till only a 1/4" hole was left - this causes a ton of oil to be ingested down the intake and soak the air filter. GD

Yes on both accounts. The part-time 4WD transmissions are designed to only engage the rear output for *added* traction. The transfer gear's and shift dog that engages the rear drive shaft are not designed to drive the whole weight of the vehicle. This is one of the problems with using them to drive a transfer case on heavily lifted rigs and it's also what prevents people from making drift cars using them. It will run for a while, but you will shred it in a few thousand miles - you might get 10,000 on a gear-set/shift dog. GD

None taken of course. I have not wheeled with a VLSD. I have wheeled with welded (currently), and in the past with a clutch style LSD - both in the rear. I also have a VLSD on my 91 SS. It rocks for high speed cornering. As far as off-road, the Welded rear is far superior to anything else I've used. Having the VLSD in the *center* may be the primary reason behind the AWD performing as well as it does. I have seen them perform well also and I tend to think it's about the ability to transfer power between front and rear wheels without causing the non-powered wheel to dig a big hole under itself. Taken that way it's actually the ability for the VLSD to *slip* rather than to lock-up that accounts for the difference in the AWD systems vs. the 4WD. Unfortunately that affect doesn't really extend to a rear mounted VLSD. As you say there's a reason Subaru went to the VC's on the center and the AWD system - there's also a reason that you only see rear VLSD's on WRX's, SVX's, and my 91 SS. They are primarly street or high speed machines. GD

I can also tell you that the 4 speed rear output shift dog will not handle RWD with any kind of severe use. It's not designed for this purpose and it will shred eventually. Subaru transaxles are not built for RWD only applications - more than one person has found this out the hard way when that shift dog tears itself apart. Any kind of locker or limited slip device will only make this worse as it will put a ton of strain on the rear output transfer gears when the wheels lock together in a turn. GD

VLSD might as well be an open diff as far as the Brat is concerned. They only lock with enough friction to change the state of the fluid in the viscous coupler. That means they lock in high-speed cornering applications. They are open for slow speed manuevering. It's a street racing type of limited slip device, not a clutch type. It will buy you nothing in exchange for a lot of work. GD

They suck to work on, but my family has had 5 of them and all have made it to 200k without issue. Our 94 has 240k on it right now and other than tie rod ends and routine maintenance it's never been in the shop. I wouldn't (and I don't) work on them though. Too cramped. GD

I don't think SVX's had LSD's and if they did they would be VLSD's anyway and not applicable to the type of traction generally desired in a Brat. They are for street applications. Besides that it likely is entirely different as the previous poster sugests. GD

Brand loyalty is entirely BS. Every manufacturer has their share of models that they would rather just forget. Subaru has the Justy ECVT, the phase I and II EJ25's (which is like half a decade of virtually everything they built ), and other lesser known items such as every car that rolled with air suspension . I won't even bother with the EA82T's.... The real questions have to be asked on a model specific and year specific basis. There were some years of Chrysler minivans that were truely awesome cars. Just as Ford had quite a winner with the Aerostar and a complete failure with the Windstar..... Chrysler can claim the same. I had a terrible experience with a 96 Dodge Caravan but I also KNOW there are other years that were better. This is just the way of the world. I build and maintain industrial machinery and it's not any different. We have problem children too and other models that just won't die despite their neglectful owners. This is also the reason I don't buy cars untill they are around 3 to 5 years old at least - I would rather let some other poor sap absorb the rapid depreciation and do all the research with respect to reliability and economy. GD

You wan't carb cleaner - boiling will do nothing. Get the stuff in the 1 gallon pail with the parts strainer. It's nasty stuff so watch out. Yet another cost involved with rebuilding carbs where your money is better spent buying a nice shiny new one. GD

Not all clutch discs are the same - some will not fit inside the cavity of the EA81 flywheel due to the shape of the dampener spring assembly. We also know that he has an EA82 flywheel so that's the surest method to get it installed. GD

No damage. GD

Sounds just like all the morons that continue to pump grease into motors that ultimately have sealed or sheilded bearings because there's a grease zerk on the thing.... which is only there to shut people up after too many complaints to the manfuacturer about "how am I supposed to grease my bearings?" . It WILL work - right up till it doesn't. This is all pretty academic though as a properly installed bearing set should easily last the remaining life of the vehicle. You have to ask yourself - if I'm replaceing the original bearings at 150k..... how likely is it that somewhere north of 300k I'll still be driving this car? Unlikely at best and the drawbacks and potential damage that can result from over-greasing (by FAR the biggest cause of bearing failure) outweight the time and money it would take to replace them again in 10 years if the previous assumption is found to be in the affirmative. Basically you are all wasting your time. Replace the bearings (-2RS sealed C3's), call it a day (or a decade in this case) and have a beer. GD

How large are the hoses and have you cleaned the inside of the valve covers? I run 5/8" heater core hose hooked in just as you say but with the smaller line running to the air cleaner from the "F" shaped plastic elbow off the drivers side valve cover hose. All of mine have been hooked up this way for years and I've never had any issues. I would sugest that you make SURE the hoses are large enough and there are no restrictions in the valve covers or in any plastic connectors you are using for the hoses. And use only OEM PCV valves too if you aren't already. GD

Buy a rebuild kit and replace any parts that come in it. If it needs throttle shaft bushings you will need to find a machine shop that can install and properly ream them. Don't touch the throttle plates unless rebushing is required. Otherwise you will have to reset the plates and that is not a first-timer friendly procedure. Otherwise - dissasemble, replace parts, reassemble. It's not rocket science. If you aren't comfortable taking things apart with many tiny peices then you should definately find someone else to do it or just buy a new one. Frankly for the price you would be way ahead of the game to get a new one. GD

You will have to grind on the bell-housing to allow installation of the EA82 flywheel, but otherwise it will mate to the transmission and cross-member. There will be changes required in the wireing due to the distributor being located in the front rather than the drivers-side rear. GD

You'll learn eventually - they all do. EA81's are great engines, but the parts will soon be unavailible and spending more than the car is worth to get a handful of HP when readily availible engines in the EJ class are inexpensive and have tons of support... not to mention double the power.... is wasteful. GD