GeneralDisorder

One less EA82. Good riddance. Educate yourself next time before you ruin something that's actually valuable and someone cares about. Honing is a fat waste of time and causes much more damage than just leaving it alone. GD

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS GLAZE!!!!!! Congrats on wrecking your cylinder walls. F***ing morons! GD

Check that the front AFR sensor harness isn't soaked with oil from a chain cover leak and caused the sensor to fail. This can result is heavily positive or negative fuel trims and can contribute to catalyst failure. There's a TSB about this from Subaru. A misfire condition WILL damage that new catalytic converter so you need to get it into a (preferably independent Subaru specialist) quickly to get it diagnosed. It's most likely a fuel trim problem like an intake air leak, bad PCV valve, dirty MAF, or failed front AFR sensor. You cannot diagnose this without special equipment and we can't do it through the internet either. The misfire and the converter failure are probably related and the dealer didn't address the underlying cause. GD

No. If everything was new, it still wouldn't be a good idea. With it all old and seized together, you will almost certainly put too much force through the rolling elements and destroy the bearing races. GD

High horse? The speakers in my 1986 Trans Am are original. They are (I think) blown. They vibrate like crazy with too much bass. I am not familiar with this "high horse" you speak of. My daily horse is factory ride height. And yeah. I'm frequently an a$$. Just please remember - there are NO stupid questions. ONLY stupid people. GD

"Acoustic seal" on a 94 Impreza?!? Hahahahahahaha. Surely - you jest. GD

Low voltage codes. They will likely clear on their own after a few drive cycles. The initial crank but no start is normal for all the 04+ DBW cars. You have to power on the ECU then wait about 15 seconds for it to initialize. GD

Has anyone changed all the o-rings in the system? Compressor is not usually a leak point. Mostly we see discharge hose crimp failures, and o-ring failures. I would buy a new discharge hose (high failure rate), and swap all the o-rings especially at the compressor fittings. Also don't disregard the shrader cores in the fittings. GD

Probably not. If the front main went, it would be all over the timing belt and inside the plastic timing covers. Or.... maybe.... it is. Take it apart and see. The old EA81's used to do that. But no timing belt arrangement on those. Next time step up to a Legacy chassis or newer. The old GL/Loyale platform is pretty much dead at this point. Can't get the parts to maintain them anymore. People that own them tend to have lots of parts cars to maintain them. GD

C'mon Padawan - buy a speaker and make a bracket out of some sheet goods. Even plastic.... whatever. Get a sawzall and get on with it. We really need to hold your hand for this? GD

I mean if you are already a tool - own it. GD

Yep. That will work. GD

DO NOT HONE THE CYLINDERS!! Clear? I wouldn't split the case. Distrubing the case half alignment is a bad idea. New rings and run it. The rings will seat just fine. GD

If there's no code - pending or otherwise, then I would say the cam sensor issue is likely resolved. Your symptoms are most likely ignition related. I understand that you replaced plugs, wires, and coil. Where did this coil come from? If you have the original put it back in. GD

Don't. You'll just look like a tool in a lowered 96 Outback. GD

Are you still getting a cam sensor code? GD

It's 614147 for a Toyota. GD

Just a few of the parts back from the machine shop and that big 18GXT-R. 100mm JE's, STi rods - resized with ARP-2000 bolts, Nitrided STi crank.... etc. There's a whole stack of other parts nearby. GD

Engine block came back from the machine shop yesterday GD

Yes that will work. I don't believe there will be a bias voltage present to the crank sensor - most likely you will see nothing. If you see 5v or like 4.8v that's a normal bias voltage but like I said I don't believe there should be any voltage to the sensor - bias or otherwise. GD

You might want to double-check that there is no significant voltage present on either of the sensor circuit leads. GD

Not really. It's a Variable Reluctance sensor. The sensor is isolated from the vehicle's electrical system - it is an entirely passive sensor relying on a permanent magnet and a coil of wire that either end of which is connected to the interface circuit inside the ECU. So nothing the alternator or battery or ignition does can have any real effect on the sensor. There would have to be a short to power in one of the leads connected to the sensor, or the ECU would have to be somehow shunting power through the interface circuit...... unlikely. What is much more likely is a cheaply made sensor that is failing due to vibration, heat, and generally poor construction in a third world $hithole. Get a proper Japanese sensor. GD

The 4 speed automatic is virtually indestructible if maintained even a little bit. Far more reliable and less maintenance than the 5 speed manual. Smarter and better at traction, and with a built in "low range" (torque converter/multiplier). Honestly the only reason people go for manual cars is a perception of fuel economy benefits (there are none) or they like having something to do with their right hand. The manual from this era loses in every way. GD

It's pretty much irrelevant. Test the pressure with a mechanical gauge if you are curious about it. If you're relying on the factory trim package (aka "gauge") for your pressure readings, they are immediately suspect, especially if the motor isn't in any obvious low oil pressure distress. Otherwise - virtually all modern engines have no "trim package" that indicates "oil pressure"..... and what are you going to do about it if it's "low" anyway? You can't do anything - you can't buy a pump (not that is likely to solve the increased clearances that create "pressure", since the pump only creates volume), you can't rebuild the block economically..... it's a waste of effort. Check it with a gauge - not that it will tell you anything useful or more accurately - it won't give you any *actionable* information. So why waste the effort? GD

Better off with a used Subaru one typically. They aren't a high failure item really. GD