GeneralDisorder

I'm pretty sure the brakes won't bolt on but if you use EA81 brakes I don't see why they wouldn't. The only other area of concern for me would be the tie-rod end fitting the knuckle. GD

I'm sorry - I misrepresented that one. They are about $100 from the dealer and about $15 to $20 from Napa. Still worth replacing though. GD

Yes they did. Not too hard to find if you lookout for them on craigslist. There is some question as to whether the D/R coupes were using the 1.2:1 low range or not in N/A trim but that's easy enough to tell by looking at the diff. GD

That is very common as Gary says. I will add though that if you are doing the work yourself CHANGE THE DRIER. They are like $20 from the dealer. The dessicant inside protects the system from contaminants that will acidify the refigerant and eat the orings and shrader core's. The driers are less expensive than the refrigerant you are going to put in the system so it's a worthwhile investment. GD

I work with Zep products all day so I know them best - I would probably start with a citrus based degreaser like Big Orange, and after that soaks in I would spray it all out with an evaporating degreaser like ID-Red or Aerosolve. Similar products can be found at the local autozone or the like I'm sure. GD

USRM to the rescue: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49952 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54203 Contact Bratsrus1 (Jerry) - he makes a kit for $100 that makes the install essentially a bolt-in. He lives in Yakima so you could probably just hook up with him and avoid shipping. GD

The problem is that the ER27 (your 2.7 - 6) is rare and the parts for it are expensive. Couple that with the fact that it's really too long to fit properly in an EA series engine bay and it's a lot more cost effective to install a common EJ22E and get nearly the same power with a much easier install, cheap, availible parts, and newer technology. In the end the biggest thing that has stopped most conversions to the ER27 is the cooling system. Without lengthening the front end, or locating the radiator on top of the engine there's just no place for it to go. GD

A lot of scrap places will pay decent for the things. I've seen places advertise $100 a piece for them. The have some precious metals in them like platinum and palladium. GD

Actually they both are converters. Some models had two. Some only had the first one at the y-pipe junction. The models that only have one have a resonator where your second cat is at in the mid-pipe. GD

IIRC, on the EA82's that's a flange that uses two 10mm bolts to secure it to the head correct? It probably could use a new gasket. Otherwise you can cut the flange off the pipe leaving about 1", flatten it with a hammer and run a weld across the seam. Make sure you get the mating surfaces clean and use something like loctite 518 or 519 on the flange. That's the catalytic converter. The valve you are trying to fix supplies it with fresh oxygen to facilitate the catalyst action and increase it's performance. They are stainless steel, so keep that in mind when you are working on them. I generally remove the heat sheilds, cut a flap out of the top so I can dump out the contents, then weld it back up. The heat sheild covers up the welded flap so no one is the wiser come inspection time if you have such a thing. Often the guts are either broken and rattling around in there or just gone - leaving only the wire mesh and some bracketry to get sucked into the outlet side of the housing and screw with your backpressure. GD

The valve is generally part of the hose. Most of that estimate is labor. At shop rates you can easily eat up a LOT of time of a refrigeration tech - they have to evac the system, replace the hose, probably replace the drier as well, then pull it down with a vacuum pump, charge it with nitrogen, check for leaks, then do it again and charge it with R134. It's virtually all labor and it has to be done by someone with a certification. It just plain isn't cheap. It's actually pretty simple stuff though and if you rent a recovery unit and a vacuum pump you could do it yourself pretty easily with just some reading on the subject. GD

Unthread the pipe from the body of the valve and drop your quarter in the valve body. Then tighten the pipe back on. You can then pull the rubber hose off. As to it not being operational - it *can* be if you just put a small filter on the end of that hose instead of blocking it with a quarter. Use the stock silencer if you want to quiet it down. GD

Huh? The EA81 choke's are electric - they don't have a "sender" so I'm not sure what you are referring to. GD

They aren't ball bearings - they are timken style tapered roller bearings. I don't have the numbers but there are two different styles for 4WD - old and new. For 2WD they are entirely different. GD

Any good locksmith can have those made in a few minutes. Should cost less than $50. GD

Yes - but those are newer than the original poster was looking at. GD

Pull the door panel - takes like 5 minutes. You just use a large flat blade screwdriver under each of the tabs and you won't break them. GD

Then either the rings haven't properly seated, or the hone job was crap. Were chrome rings used? It can take 10,000 miles for them to properly seat. 600 miles is nothing - I wouldn't be taking any readings till I ran that thing at 3k on the freeway for a couple hours. And you better be changing the oil pretty soon. The first 1000 miles there's a ton of metal going to need to come out. GD

From what I know both were 7.7:1 so they shouldn't have. The EJ22T is 8.0:1 for comparison. So it shouldn't be much lower in comp. numbers. As I said though - it's a lot more important that they are even than it is for them to be high. Anything over 100 should run without any problems. Remember that the engine runs at a minimum of 700 RPM's. At speed the small leaks you are experiencing that bring your numbers down to 100 are going to be insignificant. It is a good indicator of general ring and valve sealing though so I wouldn't be boosting that engine to moon without a full overhaul - if the rings leak a bit you can collapse ring lands with too much boost. GD

That's a bit low, but as long as they are even it should be fine. I don't have numbers for an EA82T but for the EJ22T the comp. is listed at about 140 psi. EA82T's are lower compression though so I would assume around 120 to 130 would be ideal. You are doing the test with the throttle wide open right? Fuel pump disconnected? GD

Ah! In the correct forum. Wonderful. Contact Zefy (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?u=3164) He works for Rack Attack and will know anything and everything there is about what you desire. GD

Posting this in the new gen forum would be a great start. GD

Did you replace them or just check that they are there? I ask because I had a hesitation problem on an SPFI motor that was due to loose belts. I tried everything under the sun and it never got fixed till one day the passenger side belt broke and after I replaced them it runs like a new engine. It's starting to sound like this could be a wiring issue. With the XT's having the ECU in the trunk you may be running into the "corroded-wireing-under-the-carpet" bug that some folks have seen. With all the time you have already invested it might be wise to just lay eyes on every inch of sensor/ECU harness - especially those parts that are under carpet or door sill plastic. The only thing I can think of that would cause your complete power loss and not set off a code at the ECU would be complete power loss to the ECU itself. I would consider running some LED's off the power supply pins of the ECU itself and put them where you can see them just to verify that you aren't losing power to the ECU and thus shutting down the injectors, coil, or fuel pump. GD

Sounds like a blown-out exhaust gasket to me. Having the muffler done wouldn't make any difference - in fact having it done so recently might have *caused* the blow-out due to jostling of the exhaust when they installed it and additional back-pressure from replaceing the old one that I assume had holes or other serious issues. They also may not have used the correct gaskets on the muffler-to-midpipe flange. If you don't use gaskets that have the metal sealing ring on the ID they will blow out quickly. GD

You do NOT want alloys or mags off-road. If you smack one on a rock you will crack them and they are not repairable in the field. A steel you can smack with a hammer and get to hold the bead again - not so with a mag. Best case you have to replace an expensive mag - worst case it fails catastrophically on the trip back from the trails. GD