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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. Could be a failed or aftermarket PCV valve, or a ring/piston issue. If everything is *completely* dry then could have easily been severe consumption. I've seen brand new aftermarket PCV valves eat 4 quarts in 300 miles. It certainly can happen. MUST use only OEM Subaru PCV valves and proper full synthetic oil or the 05+ engines will burn oil when the oil control rings get plugged with varnish and carbon. GD
  2. 2008 is definitely worth fixing though - get a reman short block from Subaru. 3 year / 36k warranty. And replace those AVLS switches when you do the short block replacement. You can't prove the oil change shop is at fault. The remaining oil was black and nasty because the remaining oil was overheating due to there not being enough oil in the system and the complete volume of the pan was being circulated through the engine more often than if the full capacity was present. GD
  3. Oil smoke near cylinder 3: Failed AVLS solenoid control pressure switch. They like to blow out their diaphragm and leak copious amounts of oil from the switch connector. A Subaru specialty shop will usually notice these are old original style and recommend upgrading them to the updated design. We replace them as a routine every time we do head gaskets. It is likely an unfortunate accident that the switch failure went unnoticed and bled out all the oil on a 350 mile freeway run. The switch will only really leak at higher than idle rpm and under a load as the ECU controls oil supply to the AVLS system and only locks in the secondary intake valve rocker to full-lift operation under load. GD
  4. Such a nice dealer you have! https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Impreza-Engine-Manifold-14035AA471/dp/B00TNMO07K GD
  5. It's an UGLY and time consuming job to change out the assembly but really once they fail they can't easily be fixed as there are NO parts available separately other than the motor. Unfortunately the 95+ assemblies are mostly plastic and once they fail it's all over by the crying. I would say - if you like the car and plan to keep it - get a new sunroof assembly from Subaru as they won't be available forever and anything you get used is just that much closer to failure. It's the plastic - just like radiators they have a useful lifespan of 8-10 years. GD
  6. The WIX filters are the only one's I'm aware of that have the 23.5 psi bypass valve and have the valve up-front before the filter element. They are a significantly better design as when they go into bypass (one every cold start for example, when Subaru oil pressure is 90+ psi) the oil does not first pass over the dirty element and wash contaminants back into the engine. GD
  7. You're not likely to break anything with 200 wheel. Pretty much all the Impreza 5 speed transmissions prior to 2008 will lose all the teeth off third gear even if you roll into the power carefully at about 340 to 360 wheel torque Abuse will kill them with less, but much past 320 ft/lbs and it's goodbye to third gear. The teeth come off like a zipper. I've seen a ton of 5 speed failures. The center diffs are weak on all the phase-II units. Just plan on replacing it if you go with a used trans. GD
  8. If you have no coms with the OBD-II port then that's where you start the diag. You check the 5v and the serial data connection back to the ECU - also ignition switched power and ground to the port. If that checks out and no shorts to ground, etc then you start checking powers and grounds to the ECU. GD
  9. I have seen several bad TCU's that throw Duty-C codes but the solenoid is good. It's usually the gen 1 legacy cars. Gen 2's the solenoids fail. GD
  10. WIX. The OEM filters are $hit. All filters have drain-back valves. And you can't drain a Subaru filter anyway - it hangs upside down. GD
  11. So yes there is only a single module. My diagrams were talking about the sensors - there's 4 impact sensors. I doubt it's the computer because that's what's sending out the code. It's probably sensing a wiring fault. These SRS sensors monitor the wiring for resistance. To the point that if a different resistance is sensed you have to replace the harness - repairing them will change the resistance and the computer will not accept it. GD
  12. I haven't seen the computers (there's one for each bag) go bad. If the area you live in is prone to rust it may be wiring related. Also the clock spring would be the most likely failure point as that is the interface with the 300 lb gorilla. Does the horn work? GD
  13. I reviewed the diagnostic procedures for code 12...... Suffice to say that you can't diagnose this. Looks like there's a small tool box full of diagnostic harnesses and resistors required for the tests. Gonna have to let the dealer take this one. GD
  14. The scan tools made by Launch and Autel vary in what they support and how fast they work depending on what make/model/year you are working on. You have to research which tools work the best with the car makes you primarily work on. For Subaru, the best/cheapest option is a Tactrix cable and a laptop. https://www.tactrix.com/ TPMS is usually it's own tool at the shop level. I have no idea what the aftermarket low-end scan tools support for this. Again it's going to probably depend on make and model. My subscription service is around $120 a month. It is definitely not something a DIY'er would probably consider. There are DIY online shop manual subscriptions you can purchase Such as Mitchell DIY: https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp There is the Subaru technical information system that you can also purchase a subscription to and download the manuals in PDF format. Last I checked it was about $40 for 72 hours access to this site: https://techinfo.subaru.com/stis/#/login GD
  15. Spiders or mud wasps nest in the charcoal canister vent line/fitting into the frame rail. Or an exploded charcoal canister. Or a failed vent valve. GD
  16. The crank gear either has 6 teeth or like 32 teeth. There are only two types. So if it has 6 teeth it's correct. If you want to tow or trailer it to my shop in Milwaukie I can troublshoot your issue is 2 hours or less. Probably less. GD
  17. Generally you swap the entire trans. It has to come out anyway and the front diff assembly is not sold separately by yards. 99 Forester uses 00 to 04 Forester and Outback transmissions. GD
  18. There are several suppliers of repair flanges: https://fxexhaust.com/pr/subaru.html GD
  19. It depends on how you look at it. If you can "import" a rust free car from out west here for $1500.... think about how little that is compared to rust related repairs over the next few years that you would likely encounter on a 12 year old east coast car..... and when you are talking about a built car worth ~$15k, a little shipping to get a nice one that's got no rust may be of little consequence in the grand scheme. GD
  20. If there's money involved the timetable can be moved up. It's been here a while waiting for the right person to have me build it the way they want it. If you are serious we can have a chat about what your goals are. It's a nice car and will be a lot of fun with 350+ wheel HP. Destroy STI's with impunity. There's lots of shipping companies. Actually had a customer buy a FXT from Colorado and ship it to the shop for a build we did (about 500 wheel on that one) and I think it was around $750 for shipping. GD
  21. I'm in Oregon. And our cars have ZERO rust also. So bonus. It could easily be shipped. It has a V2 Access Port and will be tuned on our dyno. 2007 was the only year for world rally blue on the FXT. It's ultra rare. Closest the US ever got to a Forester STI. GD
  22. Oh yeah - those are junk with a capitol J. Takes so much money to put one straight where it won't have any problems that it's honestly usually not worth it. GD
  23. That doesn't apply to the FXT platform - that platform was Impreza based and didn't have the turbo failure problems that the LGT/OBXT did. The LGT platform used the VF40 and later the VF46 and had issues with high failure rates - among other things like the problems with HVAC controls and the 5EAT electrical gremlins... The FXT suffered none of this as it was equipped with the TD04 turbo. That said - the FXT doesn't require a WRX or STi swap. It already has a de-tuned STi engine. Just needs the six speed and a turbo upgrade. I have a 2007 FXT 5 speed in world rally blue that I'm going to fix and sell soon. It will leave my shop with about 360 WHP on a new fully forged engine. Asking price will be about $14k. GD
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