GeneralDisorder

Better to buy the individual pieces. NSK, NTN, Koyo, Aisin, and Mitsuboshi. GD

It varies. Last one I saw I think was around 120k. Not much choice but to replace the gaskets with the same 770 and resurface the heads. GD

I looked for those once. Can't buy them in the US. There are some vendors on ebay that will ship them from the UK. Easier to just buy another 2.0 GD

Strangely they have a higher than expected incidence of fire ring HG failure that leads to overheating like the old 25D. We have not yet determined a cause but the factory 770 equipped EJ25 single cam engines are having this type of failure quite often. GD

I had one catch fire on me. Customer dropped it off overnight with a charging complaint. I go out to check it - sure enough it's stone dead. Grab my jump pack with the intention of a test run and probably drive it around to one of the bays. Starts up, and immediately sparks start shooting out of the back of the alt and something inside is glowing red hot. I hurry around and turn off the key. When the fan on the alt stops, I get about a 12" flame leaping out of the thing. I about $hit my pants of course..... I did manage to (barely) blow out the fire and was left with a smoking, melted alternator. I've run a lot of safety meetings and been party to many more. Never has anyone mentioned the need for a fire extinguisher when performing a jump and basic charge test. But yeah - I would have to say there is cause. GD

I buy it through a wholesale rep here in my area. She has been representing Chemsearch for many, many years. I can dig up her email and perhaps she can put you in touch with the right people. You get the run-around because they really aren't interested in selling onesies and twosies. They sell cases, or multiple cases. I'm a small-fry in that I buy about one case annually and I don't use any of their other products. They are full-on commercial, industrial, and government/military. Oh yeah - you can't buy less than a case BTW. They simply won't sell it. And it's about $200 with shipping, etc for one case from CA to OR. GD

That is factory. The heat/fire is from a poor connection at the stud. GD

Depends on who is doing it, but usually not unless it has ticking lifter symptoms. GD

Replace the lifter o-rings. GD

Yeah it's usually about $800 for us to do the front cover. Of course that's with the engine in the car. Not out on a stand. But dealer rates are much higher than us. I would likely quote that job at about $650 given the engine is out. What I know of dealer rates that's about right in line with my quote. It's not a small job. But that may not be the cover - might just need the phaser o-rings on the front replaced..... or it could be both. GD

I'm talking about your question. Duh. IT IS DESIGNED TO DO THAT. Clear? GD

They are not available. And Subaru uses a cycling system. It's supposed to do that. GD

Yes get them from Subaru. And in the future post in new gen. GD

Heli-coil. We use https://www.threadtoolsupply.com/ Get some EJ exhaust manifold studs from Subaru. GD

Sounds like you need to monitor the AFR sensor output while watching fuel trims. Being intermittent and the sensor being new I would say you probably either have a wiring issue (perhaps with that main harness plug) or an ECM problem. It's going to take driving and monitoring and till the problem shows up and you need someone watching live data that can interpret it correctly and potentially do some circuit probing and oscilloscope work to narrow the culprit. GD

LoL. If you have to ask, you are no where near capable or qualified to turbocharge anything. GD

Yes. And they are Subaru only. You would be best served with new ones. I doubt you will find cheaper than online dealers. That's the cost of proper maintenance. GD

Too old and relatively uncommon. Car is 25 years old. It's basically an Antique. You are lucky you can get the individual peices still. Consumers aren't even buying struts (statistically) for a car that old. Who is going to spend $1k on a set of loaded assemblies for a $500 car? Most people with 95 Legacy's are looking for cheap Chinese stuff, or buying the best looking set they can find at the local pick-n-pull. GD

A live data scan tool is much cheaper than a Tactrix cable and the learning curve you will incur getting up and running to do a custom ECU reflash. And in any case what if it the problem isn't the cat or the O2's/AFR's at all? What if your fuel trims are out of whack because of a MAF problem or intake leak? It's easier to just fix the problem. And for a 2005 that means knowing what inputs the ECU is recieving. I bet if you give the ECU a 0.7v signal back into the secondary O2 signal wires it would be happy. No guarantees but that's basically what it's looking for. 700 millivolts on the narrow band sensors. GD

A scanner that does basic live data is like $50 or less. I would humbly suggest that anyone attempting to appease the computer ought to highly consider asking it what it wants. Honestly you have no business working on that code without the proper tools. GD

Pull up live data and watch the rear O2 readings. If they oscillate and aren't a steady 0.7v when idling at operating temp and your fuel trims are within normal parameters.... then you need cats. It's not necessary to guess. GD

Vibration when accelerating is your front inner CV (DOJ) joints. Especially since the boots are torn and it's flung out the grease. GD

I agree probably not the diff. Run it on the lift and stethoscope the diff and bearings. This is very easy to determine with 100% accuracy. I would also guess wheel bearings. I have replaced diffs..... maybe half a dozen over the years. I've done hundreds of wheel bearings. It's probably 100:1 bearings vs. diffs. And the diffs I have replaced are usually run dry or are one of the weird ratio VLSD models that like to eat themselves. Extremely rare. Rear wheel bearing usually don't respond to steering input. GD

The EA82 axles are much too long and will not fit even if you wanted or tried. You have no choice despite your question. And your welcome for the holiday. GD

I have seen seemingly perfect gears disintegrate without warning. Found all the pieces, put them together and there was no missing chunks, chips, or other damage to indicate a failure origin. We don't trust old plastic radiators.... why should the the plastic gear be any different? In the cases I have seen we found no evidence whatsoever of a cause other than aging plastic. The gear just flew apart, bent up the valves, and the car got towed. We replaced the valves, installed new gears, and sent them on their merry way. Much poorer of course. I don't trust them. Just my experience though. GD