GeneralDisorder

The gears are plastic and cannot be "refurbished" - whatever that means for a molded plastic gear. I'm telling you we have seen gears that look PERFECT completely disintegrate without warning. You have been warned. GD

AT codes cannot be read with a scanner. In any case as long as the light goes out it doesn't have any. GD

Don't diagnose with Visa. Check compression, injector pulse, and spark on all four cylinders. GD

That's just a pressure switch that tells the ECU to idle up if you are dry steering at idle. It has nothing to do with the PS system. GD

How would we know? Watch the fans. Are they coming on? I am squinting real hard but I just can't make out if the fan is running through the internet. GD

They will not work. Completely different cylinder heads. The WRX heads use a much larger OD for the cam seals. Look at them on the parts diagram and you will understand maybe. In any case the 25D doesn't need belt cover guides. You should check to ensure the cams turn freely. A damaged/contaminated cam journal could lead to such problems and may end one day in a broken cam. The Gates stuff is junk. But you don't need to buy the parts from Subaru. Subaru doesn't actually make any of that stuff. Mitsuboshi, NTN, NSK, Koyo, Aisin, NPW. Stick to those brands. And honestly I would buy all new cam sprockets from Subaru. We are starting to see older plastic cam sprockets from the 90's just disintegrate without warning. This results in severe valve train damage. GD

97+ engines are 100% interference. 96 and older are not. Easy way to tell is if it has hydraulic rockers it is non-interference. If it has solid rockers it is interference. EDM is going to be similar to JDM which means, if anything, that it's a 98 over here in the USDM so in all likelyhood it is interference and would bend intake valve if the belt breaks. GD

There is zero benefit. And the VAST majority of turbo engines also don't need one. People that think they do either don't or they are band-aiding a blown engine/turbo. We have 500 AWHP cars that have no catch can or AOS and are just fine. GD

Name and credit card number should suffice. GD

-100% would result in no fuel being injected so that reading would seem likely to be meaningless. Probably a glitch in the scanners data stream definition matrix. The Long term at -8.... but what was the short term? The front sensor is a wideband. But it's not a typical 0-5v. The ECU reads milli-amps from it's AFR sensor. It is not a 0-1v sensor. Narrow band sensors are not Binary either. They just have super aggressive slopes to their voltage when responding to other-than-stoich ratios. And no I don't hone ever. It's a terrible idea from the 70's and before. If a cylinder is bad you bore and plateau hone it. If it's not you run it. The rings will seat no problem. GD

You only get a lean code from sustained positive fuel trims of 25% or more. If the fuel trims are a result of an actual lean condition such as an intake leak, then the AFR sensor's corrections are accurate and the converter will still work (if it's good) and the secondary O2 will read a steady 0.7v or so. If the front AFR sensor is bad however, it can cause a lean reading leading to erroneous positive fuel trims (with or without a lean code), overloading the converter and driving the secondary O2 voltage high. Secondary O2 sensor voltages that are stuck at 0.9v+ should be a red flag. The tell-tale of a bad cat is normal fuel trims (+/- 5%) and a fluctuating secondary O2 voltage. If the secondary O2 switches in the manner of an old school primary narrow band then this is an indication the converter is non functional. And for the love of god please would you people stop honing cylinders?!? Damn when will this wives tale die already? GD

It's the gauge circuit board. Happens all the time to 99's. Search the internet - there are instructions online on how to repair it. GD

Alternator is not the problem. You need good voltage to the injectors. Sounds like you didn't pull a good source. You need to test the circuit loaded. Unloaded 12v could drop to nothing or at least lower than the injectors need when they fire. GD

It would be better and cleaner to use pourable urethane. I've used the pourable silicone and urethane from smooth-on and the stuff is amazing. GD

It is perfectly fine to load them in the air. That's why I suggested it. We do it all the time with the car on the lift above our heads. GD

Check your fuses. GD

Why buy electric motor bearings for the auto parts store? These are just 6207-C3 bearings. You can get them for like $10 at any bearing house. GD

You need to put it under a load. Drive it on a lift with the brakes applied to simulate a load on the drivetrain. It is most probably front axle inner DOJ's. GD

I usually just throw them away and get a new one. They are like $115 for the STi pan, $37 for pickup tube, $15 for baffle plate, and $11 for the dipstick. Upgrade to the better baffling and no cleaning or worrying about it being bent, etc. They are almost too cheap to spend the time cleaning them. GD

I have a friend that's a really good welder and I also own a TIG so I just called him over last time it happened and had him weld it after-hours with the engine in the car - this was a D/S head so it was pretty accessible. We too were uncertain if the crack was already there or not - we were doing HG's due to excessive oil leakage from both heads and after everything was cleaned and put back together the crack came to the fore as the only remaining leak. It was likely part of the original problem but I elected to not charge the customer for the welding because I really don't know if my tech over-tightened it or not. Fortunately it only cost us having the car an extra night. Everyone here is now extra cautious and often asks me to make the final torque personally. We use Loctite 545 to seal the threads. If it's done properly, JB weld might do the trick. Though I wouldn't do that on a customer pay job. I might try it on one of my own vehicles if I didn't have a way to fix it properly. In any case I wouldn't replace the head over it. Get it welded with some extra filler and it will be stronger than it was originally. GD

Ignition. Loose plug wire, bad wire, bad plug, corrosion, etc. 2009 fuel filter is in the tank with the pump assembly. Rarely a problem. Never seen it in fact. GD

It would crack around the pressure switch, yes. You should be able to see it. If it's an automatic, you can power brake it in gear and maybe get the AVLS to engage.... GD

Well the pressure switch tells the ECU that it's PWM signal to the solenoid was recieved and effected a change in the oil pressure going to the AVLS rocker assembly. So until there is a load on the engine above a certain RPM, the AVLS pressure switch doesn't receive oil pressure. That's also why I think the head got cracked. I don't use any torque wrench on them. I use a short ratchet and choke up on the head.... but years of industrial machinery taught me 1/8" NPT sending unit torque values and the various strengths of soft materials like brass and aluminum. My hands are calibrated instruments of torquing. GD

Subaru. Part number 11044AA642. GD

You should thrown the fail-pro's in the fuckit bucket and buy some proper Subaru 642's or 770's GD