GeneralDisorder

The AVLS pressure switches leak from the electrical connector - that was your first leak. And then I bet you cracked the head over tightening the new one. Seen it done a couple times. GD

Might be a different number of pulses per rotation. I haven't looked into it that closely. I just know that the last 2.5RS I was asked to fix the wiring on after an auto to manual swap I had to wire up the MT sensor to a 12v switched source. It did not function with the 4EAT sensor. It's probably a square wave for both. And of course you could use like a Dakota Digital box if the pulse frequency was different. It's been a while and I don't remember the exact reason, but we had to get the MT sensor and matching connector and wire it up to get a speedo. GD

I'm about 75% on getting them off by hand. The 06+ cars with the pretzel header are a bit tighter but I'm 6'2" and hands to match. I've worked with this same pair of hands extensively over the years - indeed it's rare that I use any other pair. They say the average grip strength of 25-35 males in the US has decreased by something like 25% since 1980. I guess with the combination of video games, software engineering, Army, heavy industrial, and automotive I have the hand strength equivalent of your average super hero. And later in life probably a scorching case of carpal tunnel. GD

You can use a drill on high speed with the block surface setup vertically. But we use 90 degree air die grinders. GD

Don't think so. One is a powered (12v switched) sensor, and one is passive. Doubt their signals are compatible . GD

The "factory" filters are junk. Made by Honeywell (Fram) for the US market because SOA is too cheap (or too greedy) to buy the Japanese Tokyo-Roki filters. We use WIX because they have an up-front bypass valve design. The "blue" filters are just cheap rebranded parts store filters sold at a huge margin. We put all our filters on hand tight only. NO TOOLS!! Trust me they will come back and you will need pliers to get them off even with this much torque. Mind you we are all MEN and we don't limp-wrist them on either. But using a filter wrench or strap wrench is just asking for trouble removing it later. GD

Decalcification? This would imply (I assume) a source of calcium. Now I'm no chemist or even metallurgist, but this seems unlikely. I call BullSh1t. Show us a picture. GD

The white bristle discs are pretty soft. I've never had any of my tech's damage a block with one. GD

The last car in here I had to do an ignition upgrade on was an EVO and we had to go to a CDI box because the plug gap was intolerably small (0.020") to get us to 500 WHP. We were blowing the spark right off the plug at 35 psi. After the CDI box we got it up to 620 WHP. Now he needs more turbo..... The factory ignition systems on modern cars are quite good is our point here. If the factory COP ignition could support a full 250 HP over stock I think it's plenty over-engineered for the stock application. And waste spark systems are already very high voltage - this is because their secondary circuit is just a coil around the primary with either end connected to a spark plug. So every firing event they are required to fire two plugs. GD

All this garbage and back n forth and the guy never answered my simple question. Why? What problem are you trying to solve? I have no time for games. I'm here to help people solve problems. It's my only real function here. It's not as if I need to ask many questions in this town. So what's the GD problem you are attempting to solve with swaptronics? GD

Subaru calls for the use of the 3M "white" bristle discs. They will take all that off no problem. That's all we use on block surfaces. GD

I don't see there being a significant difference on a Toyota. All your vast experience aside, OEM's don't pass government mandated emissions testing with engines that misfire. You may have (probably did) experienced an idle improvement by installing new performance ignition parts where old or poor quality aftermarket parts weren't entirely up to the job. Also I might have more experience than you. Toyota included. Username checks out. GD

Yes but you will probably have to swap the rear diff to match. GD

You can make any waste spark 3 wire, 4 cylinder coil pack work. But the question is why? What are you trying to accomplish? The stock ignition system is capable of igniting the air fuel charge with 99.99999% reliability. Ignition either occurs or does not occur. So I question what you need this for. If you have some form of supercharging and are blowing out your spark under boost and have already reduced your plug gap beyond reasonable levels then you might want to look into capacitive discharge ignition boxes. GD

EGR is not the issue. It is not on a specific runner. Internally the EGR passage comes up as a stand pipe in the center of the plenum. Obviously the EGR gasses must be distributed evenly to all cylinders. Your buddy the mechanic clearly doesn't understand how this functions. #4 cylinder is about 70% of the burned valves we see. The other 25% is cylinder #2, with 5% being either #1 or #3. GD

That seems very odd considering you swapped wires from a working cylinder. I would be performing a compression test anyway. GD

Burnt exhaust valve. You should have addressed the head gasket leak 50k miles ago and done the valve adjustment at the same time. Now you need to replace one or more exhaust valves. GD

It's going to be up to Subaru's contractor that manufactures and programs the stereo software to fix it. This is one of the joys of buying modern products that haven't matured prior to being sent to market. They know they can just flash update it later so they take the beta v0.7, re-label it as release version 1.0, and ship the product. Knowing full well every one of them will come back with complaints. Welcome to the year 2000..... wait - oh yeah! We have been dealing with Flash EPROM marketing consequences for 20 years. Nothing to see here.... GD

Call just about any junk yard. Shouldn't be a problem. GD

Holley has some nice little electric diaphragm pumps that are perfect for Weber's too. For like $45 or something. I just put one in the engine bay of an 80 or 81 wagon and it was sweet. Small, silent, and self primed like a boss. The customer was really happy with how it looked and it required no pressure regulator. Made in USA too. GD

The Ford pumps are more difficult than a universal to fit. That's decades old information from before this stuff was easily available. Here's a good universal option: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-70151 GD

Even the OE grade Amsoil is only $9.75 a quart. This is nothing compared to the price of the trans. You really have NO IDEA what the long term consequences may be. You could fill it with tractor fluid or even motor oil and it would work.... for a while. But what of the long term chemical reactions to the seals and frictions? It might swell the frictions or it might eat the piston seals. The consequences might be VERY bad. Heck - try out filling up my Ligenfelter 700R4 with Amsoil Supershift (Type F basically, but synthetic) @ $15 a quart. Full fill was an entire case of the stuff..... $180....You won't complain about the ATF-HP anymore. Trust me. Oh and the Amsoil engine oil filter (EA15K12) are rated for use on the trans. They will handle the higher fluid pressure of the transmission due to being built with a much stronger canister. And they are $15 retail. We use them for every trans service where a spin on is used. GD

No. The hose would have to present a much larger leak than a "bit loose" - it would have to effect fuel trims significantly to cause stalling. GD

When you use an actual lift, the lift arms have rubber pads that spread the load on the pinch across about a 5" length. These pads have to be replaced periodically as the pinch welds from hundreds of cars eventually cut through them. Ask my ebay account - I have bought about 50 of them for my lifts. I own 5 - used to own 6 but ripped one out for a 2000 HP chassis dyno. I might know what I'm talking about BTW. I would not trust a rubber pad perched atop a jack stand. That's suicidally stupid. The scissor jack is really for emergency use to change the tire - is only designed to lift the car till the tire clears the ground. It is not a service tool, and will not hold up to that use. After a few dozen uses you will wear it out. The floor jack goes on the "Jacking Plate" that is designed expressly for this purpose. It is located directly aft of the oil pan. You have a 2014 - buy a proper jack ya cheapskate! Or - there's about 3000 lbs of DEATH awaiting you. Please film it for YouTube. GD

Do NOT use a jack stand on the pinch weld. You will collapse it. Use the jack on the pinch weld and put the jack stand under the frame rail. GD