GeneralDisorder

That's for an EA82. Wrong motor. The EA81 motor is long time NLA. GD

You fill both from the dipstick tubes. GD

Amsoil is compatible to all Subaru specifications including ATF-HP. It's listed on the container. GD

They still have 25D's laying around last I checked. So maybe. I would have to ask. They certainly may have the 99-01 blocks. I know there are no 22T's anymore. GD

The older, lower power engines I don't believe have enough power to oval the main lines. But these engines are so cheap in good used condition that rebuilding them isn't even close to economically viable. 2.5's and especially the turbo models develop enough cylinder pressure to distort the crank and over time push the aluminum of the case halves around. Remember cast aluminium has the density and machining properties of Oak. Literally the machining feeds and speed are virtually identical for the two materials. How many times do you want to rebuild an engine made from a material that (for the purposes of strength considerations) is effective indistinguishable from dead tree carcass? Seriously rebuilding these engine blocks is a $hit show and you are ALMOST ALWAYS better served in both time and money by buying a new set of case halves from Subaru ($950), and a new crankshaft ($275). And don't get me started on the non-pin located connecting rods used in the NA's. Those things are awful about assembly repeatability. GD

I have measured MANY main lines, and short of a brand new factory case, they are virtually always out of spec. I tore down a 24k mile 2014 WRX block and the main line was way out of spec..... and when I say out of spec I mean *I* will not assemble them with the specs I measured. I will not assemble the case if I can't get all the mains between 0.0010" and 0.00125". My personal opinion, and probably several of you will disagree, is that Subaru engine blocks are essentially disposable and really shouldn't be rebuilt. According to the manual if the main line is out of spec it's scrap. There's not even a Subaru approved machining solution to this situation. We have a work around for this but you can only do it once, maybe twice before the oil pump doesn't bolt on anymore. Then you have the dowel pin situation. Once the block has been assembled and disassembled half a dozen times for inspection, machine work, etc, the dowel pin mating holes in the block get loose enough to allow misalignment of sometimes as much as 0.0005".... now what happens to a main bearing oil clearance that was at 0.0010" (that's 0.0005" on either side of the crank) when the block halves are misaligned during assembly by 0.0005"? Think about it. Mull it over for a second. How do you assure the case halves are aligned when there's a crank in the way of doing any measurement? There's ways.... they are trade secrets as far as I'm concerned. GD

Name's not Gary. Trust me there's nothing serviceable in there. Just the tools required to measure, not even considering the experience both using them and properly assembling Subaru short blocks, are more expensive than dropping it off at a competent machinist or reputable Subaru engine builder. GD

If you can't figure out how to fixture the case such that you can remove the case half bolts I conclude you have no business doing so and there is nothing in there you can successfully repair. Lay down the tools and step away from the precision engineering. GD

That's for newer Subarus. The EA's get no love for new products. Not enough market. GD

They won't have play. We check them with a stethoscope while driving it on the lift. Checking for play is not valid when they are at the humming stage. This means they are still tight. When they get loose they won't make that noise anymore - they will just eventually fall off. GD

Yeah Raybestos is really doing the Subaru's a favor making these new castings. The remans always have poorly fitting bleeders because they have been rebuilt a million times and drilled out / re-tapped due to rust. I have a local supplier that's selling them and we always look there first. Though admittedly we use very few calipers here in the NW. GD

I just let Bosch decide by application and get whatever is in the Quietcast box. LoL. Ceramic pads tend to be louder in my experience. Akebono pads seem to be OEM in a lot of applications but I get come backs when I use them for them being loud and taking forever to break in and stop squealing. I never get complaints on the Bosch pads. GD

Get the Raybestos Opti-Cal brand new calipers. No core, and they are brand new castings. Really nice product with proper fitment to the bleeders, and they are coated: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8466968&cc=1430723&jsn=414 Bosch Quietcast pads: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6130518&cc=1430723&jsn=489 Raybestos Element3 coated rotors: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6410568&cc=1430723&jsn=537 Centric is good also: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9154660&cc=1430723&jsn=539 This is what I sell my customers. I have zero comebacks for our brake work. GD

I have not seen this with a Subaru hose, but some older stuff from the 70's I have seen this on. Had some caliper hoses on a '72 VW that were swollen shut inside and no fluid would go through them either direction. GD

Calipers can seize when they get hot, and then un-seize when they cool back down. Since the parking brake is integrated into the caliper piston, a seized parking brake is very similar to a seized caliper and they aren't really serviceable without replacing the caliper anyway. GD

Caliper piston is seized. It will need to be replaced. You will have to decide if you can do this where it sits. GD

That depends on the auto. Manuals suffer from clutch replacements, fluid changes, rear input shaft bearing failures, and center diff failures. Really the 4EAT is a better trans. Lower maintenance cost, and smarter with a computer to assist traction. GD

Sounds like it needs a tune up at least. But yeah - running and driving that's a $1k to $1.5k car. Only because it has the old reliable in it. People still want them. I just rebuilt a 5 speed trans for a dude with a 91 - willing to R&R it himself and give me $1k for parts and labor to keep it on the road. GD

It's either inside the compressor or it's the compressor clutch bearing. Either way - replace the compressor with a junk yard unit. GD

You mean the spring hose clamp? If that's not what you mean then I'll need a picture. If it is then it's purpose is self explanatory isn't it? GD

Contact Brian at iWire in California. He can take care of you. I don't have time anymore. GD

Yes this is axles. Get reman axles from the dealer. They are $198 each. You can do used and go through the reboot process but you'll only save about $100 per axle plus it's time consuming and messy. GD

Put an amp clamp on the fuel pump power lead and if the scope trace drops when the symptoms occur then you can go down that path. Otherwise FP relays aren't a failure item on Subaru's. I can't recall a single failure. GD

Well ideally you want either an actual graphing automotive oscilloscope. Or you can also use an analog volt/ohm meter. You are looking for dead spots in the wiper of the sensor. This will show up on the graph as you slowly turn the sensor as a sudden drop to 0 volts and then back up to normal reading. You want a smooth transition from 0.5v to 4.5v without any hash or drop outs in the signal. An analog meter can show this as a smooth sweep of the needle. You really can't use a DVOM because it will often miss the drop outs and they tend to switch ranges which also looks like a drop out and can give you a false positive. GD

I just got a 5 speed 2002 Outback in from a customer that's for sale. We put in a JDM short block and did the 642 gasket upgrade less than 3 years ago. New radiator and hoses, clutch, clutch hydraulics, and PS hoses. Older lady owned it and her husband took out the AC compressor, couldn't finish the job, battery died, and then it appears he tried to jump it with the cables reversed and blew the main fusible link. We fixed all that and put in a good AC compressor, new battery, and new terminals. Anyway she sold me the car after they got a divorce and it was "broken" so she bought a new Camry. Nothing wrong with it, not a stitch of rust on it anywhere (west coast - we don't get that). She invested $5000 in it over the last 3 years and it runs and drives perfectly. Usual wear for this age - needs new floor mats. The driver's side carpeting is a little torn up. Eventually might want a new drivers seat but it's pretty minor. It's dark blue. $3000 It's about $1500 to ship it to the east coast. Edit - SOLD. I never have them more than about a week. GD