GeneralDisorder

Sounds like an intermittent electrical connection. Being in Alaska I would put my money on corrosion somewhere. Start wiggling wiring connections and harnesses with the engine running and see if you can replicate the issue. Sounds like it's related to the drivetrain shifting when driving at lower speeds and accelerating from a stop, etc since you say it rarely, if ever, does it on the highway. Another potential is a dead spot in the TPS. Check it with a scope if you can. Don't troubleshoot with the parts cannon. GD

No the system is very simple. When the AC is commanded on, the fans are commanded on through one of their power leads. If the engine coolant temp rises above 204 then the other power lead is switched making them run in high speed if the AC is still on. The AC pressure switch will kick off the AC clutch but the fans will still run as long as the mode selector is in AC or defrost. The functioning of the AC system has nothing to do with the fan operation - even if the AC is inoperative the fans will still run when the mode selector is in an AC or defrost position. GD

You'll have to pull a diagram and start testing to see what you are losing when they turn off. I can almost guarantee that no one here including myself has ever seen that failure mode. There is about 5 relays and multiple fuses involved as well as the relay control ground signals from the ECU. It's also important to note that these are 2 speed fan motors and they have three wires - two power and one ground. A single power (either one) and ground gives low speed, two powers and ground give high speed - so check that both fans work on both speeds. Could be something weird with the motor windings causing them to stall when they are commanded to high speed. That's a tough one for sure. You will need test equipment to monitor the voltage and voltage drop in various conditions as well as watch ECU live data, etc. GD

Used factory. If you can find one. Next best bet is to get an early legacy fan and cut/weld the mounting for the motor into the EA fan shroud. Have done this - works great. Fabrication skill required. Aftermarket fans (especially cheap ones) completely suck and are for suckers. GD

A Weber and all associated parts and fluids should cost around $400 if you install yourself. About $800 if we do it. GD

NEVER, EVER, EVER exchange the original carb off a vehicle as a "core" for some re-manufactured garbage. Pay the core if you must and are really into masochism. GD

We don't rebuild Hitachi's. They are typically not worth the effort. The Weber swap is less expensive than dealing with all that foolishness. GD

Rent an engine hoist and pull the engine. Bubbles in the overflow and the temp gauge fluctuations tell me you have a head gasket failure. It is not common for them to fail like that - usually they just leak oil externally. But it's possible. Just replace them with 642's or 770's. GD

Should work. Get new boots, grease, and clamps from Subaru. GD

The Brat predates carfax. They won't have any records on an 83. GD

Likely the coolant overflow bottle. Probably a head gasket. The 2.2's are good for about 250k miles on a set of HG's. Do them properly (search the forum for parts and procedures) and put it back in. You'll be fine. GD

The rings were manufactured (by Subaru's ring supplier) incorrectly. They cause oil consumption. There is an extended warranty on the engine block that applies to all 11 Foresters if they exhibit excessive oil consumption. You have to go to the dealer for an oil consumption test. GD

Subaru's are much easier to work on than most any Toyota. But that particular model needs new piston rings to stop it's oil consumption. There is a 100k mile extended warranty on the short block because of faulty piston rings. GD

Depends on who you ask. For most people it's a weekend. For me it's like 3-4 hours. GD

I have customers that travel here (Portland) from Medford. I don't know of anyone in that area that really knows EA's. It's a dying art working on the old stuff. Fortunately I have a couple tech's in addition to myself that have considerable experience with them. Parts availability is the biggest issue but I know all the sources and can usually get myself out of most jams..... unless you need an oil pump. Then you're just hosed. I have customers in Medford, Seattle, and even Lake Tahoe. Other than the drive time it's usually cheaper in the long run to have it done right that to have it done twice. GD

Cut a slot in it and use a flat blade? Chisel and hammer...... vice grips..... IDK I haven't run into that before. Use your imagination. GD

19mm deep 3/8" socket typically. Long extension. It's very simple. GD

Don't. They are CHEAP from Subaru.

It takes about 2 minutes. GD

https://youtu.be/gr3zL4J-NwM GD

They are only used on the two top corners for head to block alignment. GD

Sounds like you have two choices - OEM Subaru converter, or flash the ECU and delete that code and the post cat trim system. A Tactrix cable and ECU flash is cheaper than a cat and also a lot more sure of a fix. While you're in there you can delete the cat codes, and secondary O2 codes, and anything else you never want to buy again simply due to government mandate. GD

If you have oil consumption, make sure you try an OEM Subaru PCV valve ONLY! Aftermarket are garbage. And if that doesn't fix the oil consumption then you need new rings. GD

On the cold side maybe. Cat matrix is on the hot side. I don't see how it's going to cause the engine to ingest anything. I've seen this failure. Multiple times. In no cases that I've seen has the up-pipe cat failure caused an engine seizure or ingestion of anything. Indeed it's actually one of the more benign failure modes as it doesn't usually cause engine oil contamination. You swap the up-pipe and the turbo and move on with life. This IS NOT a safety related failure IMO. It's also the least common of the "common" failure items on the JUNK LGT/OBXT platform cars. Seriously they are junk. Way too many design flaws. The yards are just filthy with cosmetically perfect examples with drivetrain failures far outstripping their value. GD

The failure of a turbo would not cause the engine to lock up. It would simply cause the turbo to stop spinning. A turbo is not a positive displacement pump so air will still flow and the engine will still run. Albeit with a slight performance loss. The failure of the cat in and of itself is NOT safety concern. If the vehicle continues to be driven under these conditions it may result in futher collateral damage but the driver should heed the warnings of noises and power loss long before this becomes an engine stall situation. Just because it's inconvenient and expensive to tow the vehicle if you're on a "long road trip"?!? LOL. That should be budget for in your trip. Duh. $hit happens. It's not Subaru's responsibility to fix your budgetary oversights. You ever heard "save for a rainy day". Downpour is here yo! Furthermore I am not aware of any safety related recalls for converter disintegration unless it's very early in the cars life. Converters fail and sometimes they create collateral damage. It's a fact of car ownership. Seriously this is ridiculous. Go call the whhhaaambulance. Sorry you had to pay for a converter and collateral damages on your decade old Subaru turbo? LoL. Welcome to the club - buyer beware. GD