GeneralDisorder

That's nuts. In a shop environment we have no time for such foolishness. The bolts get tightened, the fluids get filled, and the key gets turned. As quickly as can be accomplished. We have a near zero return rate with regards to leaks from RTV sealed components. Ultra Grey is alright. Though it pales in comparison to 1217H or 1217B. GD

Exactly. Considerable body damage to drivers rear quarter, paint is shot, front bumper dents.... the man is trying to get his hooptie on the road not restore it to showroom. Not that it couldn't be nice with a ton of work, but no inclination toward that end is on exhibit here. Screw that Carter single barrel worn out trash. Stuff it in the attic and get on the road and on with life. GD

You need a meter with you for when the symptoms appear. Then you can determine where you have a voltage drop, etc. Don't load the parts cannon till you have a clear diagnosis of the problem. GD

The code is for a circuit fault. It has NOTHING to do with actual detonation. And detonation (no matter how severe) will NEVER set a code of any kind. Bad sensor, bad wiring, or bad ECU. Those are the ONLY causes of that code. And once the fault is resolved the code will IMMEDIATELY clear itself and stay off. If you start the engine and it throws a knock sensor code then the circuit fault is NOT resolved. As to sensor function - the knock sensor is a microphone. Tuned to a specific frequency that is chosen by the engineers to be appropriate for that specific engine - usually this is a calculation based on bore diameter, etc. It generates a voltage signal that is then filtered and interpreted by the ECU's hardware and software. The cylinder responsible for the detonation event is calculated by crankshaft position and attenuation due to distance from the sensor. Detonation results in timing being retarded but will NEVER set a code. A circuit fault will result in a substitute "limp mode" timing map being applied that has less timing throughout leading to a reduction in fuel economy and power but with NO trouble code. GD

Loose connection when hot. Check the main output lug on the alternator since that's the most recent thing you touched. Batteries can basically die and after sitting for a while will recover - often to the point of starting the engine again - once or twice anyway if it's an engine willing and able. Also alternators can fail in such a way that they work when cold but their voltage trails off to nothing after they get hot. Your problem is consistently not there when cold. You have an electrically open circuit or high resistance when hot. Be that a mechanical connection, or an electronic component that has a circuit board or IC crack that opens when hot. And yes - parts store alternators are crap. Subaru sells reman alternators that are not junk. Get it from the dealer. GD

You sure it's not exhaust she's smelling? ANY leak from any point on the Y-pipe will get sucked into the cabin. GD

Have to rebush the distributor shaft. Or replace the distributor. Look up Philbin Manufacturing in Portland, OR. They can rebuild it. GD

I doubt that keeping it stock has any merit. Brat's peaked in value a while ago and then people realized there were no parts available and weren't ever going to be. Prices went back down and have been static now for years - adjusting for inflation they have decreased in value substantially. Regardless, a rebuild kit will not alleviate worn throttle shafts, or the tendency for these to rattle themselves apart. Nor will it give the low end torque of a 32/36 Weber with progressive linkage. Carb heat? Really? That can be arranged rather easily on the Weber. A 32/36 will give the vehicle a new lease on life. It's simple and reliable and parts are available to keep it in proper tune. Take pictures, save all the old parts in a box if you must - for some future where Brat parts are available at every Walmart. GD

They are only a couple $ from the Subaru dealer. You can match them up to generic AC o-rings from an assortment also. We do whichever happens to be more convenient at the time. The diameter isn't as important as the thickness. A smaller diameter but same thickness will stretch. As long as there is some resistance when installing. Don't gouge the fittings and oil the o-rings prior to installation. GD

Replace the compressor fitting o-rings. Pull a vacuum and charge it. The vacuum will allow you to put in enough refrigerant to get the pump running so you can add the rest. You can usually get 16+ oz in by pulling the system into a solid vacuum. GD

Get a Hitachi intake so you can Weber swap it. The carter single barrel was $hit on its best day. The Hitachi was considerably better and even those were honestly pretty gutless and horrible to work on. GD

I have never had that come up on any car I've scanned. Very strange. GD

Yeah I saw that. Change the axles.

You just have to use the 04 axles most likely. GD

Blown turbo. Could need a whole engine. TONS of the 05/06 LGT / OBXT in the junk yard because of VF40 failures. Typically you end up replacing the entire engine which is often $6k to $8k. This is essentially an STI engine with a smaller turbo. They are NOT CHEAP to repair and if it's done wrong or poorly you WILL be doing it again. Best practices are to change over to forged pistons, welded pickup tube, and re-route the turbo oil feed to prevent failures in these critical areas. If you don't know what you're doing you WILL screw it up. Honestly I would pass. They are too much trouble and 5EAT isn't that great either. They had their own problems. GD

The factory sensor is made by Denso. There is no reason to buy it from Subaru. They didn't make it nor do they have a corner on the Denso sensor market. Black wires are heater element. White is sensor ground, blue is signal. GD

Oh yeah - it's the MT that didn't have EGR. Disregard - I was confused this morning apparently. Should be a direct swap. 99 Outback only came with the 2.5. Unless it's an Impreza Outback Sport. That would have the phase II 2.2 and is not compatible. GD

The AT 2.2 doesn't have EGR. You will need an EGR manifold and to drill/tap the EGR port on the head or route the EGR tube to the IAC hose. GD

Yep.

Just use two relays. Parallel up the coil power and ground leads. GD

All the old engines already came with 10's. It wasn't till about 2000 that Subaru started experimenting with small pumps. GD

Oil consumption was solved. But they are a suffering from broken valve springs. Apparently that is creeping into newer models than the early FB's also. Officially I think it's 12/13 models but on good authority I hear it is affecting newer models that this also. GD

If the valves happen to be closed and none are bent then it will show compression. It's easy to pull the covers and check. Probably a broken belt. GD

List price is about $11. Your dealer is gouging you. Order the parts from parts.subaru.com for pickup at your dealer to circumvent their price gouging. GD

Insufficient spring tension and poor seal would be my guess. Leading to the valve being open under manifold vacuum and crankcase pressure conditions when it should be closed. I have not studied it in detail - all I can tell you is that old/worn factory or aftermarket PCV valves WILL cause extreme oil consumption. This has been a constant through all the EJ series of engines. GD