GeneralDisorder

Those lift blocks don't correct for the angle the mount sits against the body. So yeah it's going to destroy your camber. Nothing you can do but buy or make new lift blocks that have built in camber correction. For every inch of drop, the lower plate must be offset inward X amount to bring the camber back into alignment. That wasn't done either because it was a hack job for off-road only or they didn't understand the geometry of what they were doing. Call ADF - I'm sure he can sell you a set of front strut blocks to fix that. GD

Mileage is not stored in the ECU. GD

Yes. Power it up with a 12v source using the pins specified for switched power and ground in the factory service manual schematic. GD

On a turbo model you must use a gasket with a fire ring like a head gasket. If you use the waffle style gaskets this will always happen. People really don't understand that you always have pre-turbine exhaust manifold pressure. A "good" turbo will be about 2:1 ratio. Poor inefficient turbos can be 3:1 or higher. So that 7 psi in your intake manifold translates to at least 14 psi in your exhaust manifold and maybe more. That's 14 psi of 900 to 1300 degree exhaust gasses at WOT. Gaskets without fire rings will NOT work here. GD

I doubt the timer module for the wiper delay is in the column. It almost certainly will not be that simple. The harness plugs may not have the right wires in them, or the plugs may be different. GD

I feel ya. That's why I'm rocking 80's GM technology. Simple, reliable, and I can get parts easily. I have a bluetooth adapter and an android app for my 86 Trans Am. Just the one computer for the TPI injection. GD

Going to be a very long time before EJ parts go NLA. You can buy an oil pump for a 2019 STI and bolt it onto a 1990 EJ22. Just for example. You have 30 years of compatible parts. Compared to 10 on the EA82, and only 5 on the EA81. And the swap is not that hard. Not even nearly "a ton of work". With the swap parts commercially available now like adapter plates, etc. It's actually rather easy. The *why* is the question. Just buy a car that already has it like a Legacy or Forester. They do literally everything better and easier. I don't understand how people even stand driving the EA's. I drive the wife's 2001 OBW and am honestly terrified half the time I'm going to get run over in it. I guess I'm just spoiled by 1980's Chevy Small Block performance . GD

Outback and Forester automatic are both 4.44 final drive and those are both phase II so it will work just fine. Part numbers really don't matter. It's a direct swap. GD

As it only works for the 97 to 99 25D cylinder heads, it is only made by Subaru's custom tool contractor Kent Moore. I believe that one is close to $400. I have never seen one and since all subsequent dual cam models (except 02 WRX which requires a different tool) require cam removal (shimless bucket), we don't offer the shim replacement service using the special tool. Also I've never been asked to and those engines are now so old if we see one at all we end up doing pistons and head gaskets making the tool useless anyway. GD

Melling does not list a pump for any year EA82. Nor does Autozone. https://www.melling.com/parts-lookup/ What part number did they give you? There is exactly 0% chance you will get anything that fits an EA82. GD

Melling makes very good pumps. But unless something has dramatically changed very recently they aren't available for the EA82. No one makes a pump for the EA82 anymore. GD

Directly opposite the lobe. You always measure lash at the lowest point on the cam which is 180 degrees away from max lift. GD

Make sure you are 100% positive on the size you need. 10 out of 10 tech's at the dealer level according to my dealer parts guy get it wrong the first time, and most get it wrong the second time too. Math..... it's a problem. GD

You don't grind the shim, you grind the tip of the valve.

Koyo or Denso. Only. GD

There is no need to design them that way. It's just lazy engineering and bean counters cutting costs. Some of the Saturn's even into the 2000's you could swap the heater core in about 15 minutes. My 86 Trans Am even - well into the plastic unibody era. About 2 hours total. Subaru of basically any era right back to the 70's is between 6 and 12 hours. Always been ridiculous. Although they are usually quite reliable. GD

Wire wheel works. Pull the valves and detail them. Or just leave them be. Not much benefit to cleaning them. GD

Yep. That's how we do it. Refurbished OEM is the way to go. GD

We do this ALL THE TIME. And we are an engine builder and tuning shop. I just bought a $100k Dyno-Jet. With the JE hybrid pistons the compression ratio and quench volume are corrected and the engine is simply a 2.5. We have customers making 375 wheel on this combo with ease. There is NOTHING wrong with 2.0 heads on a 2.5 bore. A stroker is a TON more work than a stock 2.5 with pistons swapped. GD

I figured it would work. Don't forget to add another bottle every time you change the coolant. The stuff actually works really good. GD

First gen Forester with an automatic, 2" lifts, wheels, and tires will wheel circles around that old EA junk. One of my tech's recently bought a 2000 Foz needing an engine for $250. He bought a wrecked Outback for $500 and swapped the engine over. For $750, some maintenance items, and fluids he has a daily. Lift kit, tires (for the stock 16's) are about the same price for any Subaru. So do what you want, but understand that a Forester will be less work, more fun, and more reliable. They have 165 HP and can sustain modern freeway speeds even with big tires....Do you want to have fun and go wheeling or do you want to spend LOTS of time looking for parts, being disappointed in the performance, frustrated by breakages, and endlessly wrenching on a 90 HP rattle-trap? Seriously its a huge waste of time. Unless you like the wrenching, and the searching for parts, and such more than actually using it. GD

A first gen Forester automatic is more capable in stock form than any GL ever made, including all the 2-4" lifted ones people have built. And it's not any larger. They are a million times better at everything and are CHEAP. You can also get all the parts they need well into the future. Parts store Chinese axles are worse than useless. False sense of security those are. It's not doom and gloom. I own an 86 EA81 hatch with an 8" lift running 30" Swampers, and a nissan t-case. And it isn't my first lifted Subaru. Trust me I know all the challenges here. You can't even get decent clutch kits for the 225mm EA clutch anymore. Why go the trouble of building one now? 15 years ago I could see it. Now? Why bother with such old equipment that you can't effectively service. GD

That's parts and labor. That's the general range our invoices fall within for that type of job. Or really any turbo engine replacement/build. Sky's the limit though. HP depends on your budget. GD

Yep. Sell it and buy a Forester. Can't get enough axles to wheel an EA chassis. Huge waste of time. They eat axles like crazy without lifting. You lift them and it's like every other week you break an axle. Everyone I know that had conventionally lifted GL's, had to get out of it. You need spares when wheeling. But you can't buy axles anymore.... or transmissions.... or engine parts. It's a yard ornament at best. You will have to leave it on some trail and that will be the end of it if you try this. Seriously it's a dangerous and stupid idea to wheel an EA that you can't bring spares for. GD

It's been covered in great detail about 100 times on this forum for the last 20 years. Search. GD