GeneralDisorder

It occured to me after posting last time, that your pressure test rig might have experienced pressure drop simply from the compressed air falling in temperature (and therefore pressure). The air is hot leaving the compressor, and will drop in pressure after sitting in that engine. For radiator hoses - buy them from Subaru. They fit the best and last the longest, and they are relatively cheap. Like $25 each. GD

Just get reman axles from Subaru. They are $198 each retail but you can probably get them for $125 or so online. There is a core on them though. GD

WRX and STI didn't exist in the united states in 98. So whatever you find will be aftermarket (new) or used from Europe or Japan. Shipping is a LOT on stuff like that. Easily more than the parts.

Put it on a lift, drive it with the brakes loaded up, listen to components with a stethoscope. This isn't rocket science - you just need a better mechanic. GD

Thanks! She's not mine. I just designed and built it. But the customer lets me use it for promotional purposes. GD

Check out the ring gear teeth through the drain plug hole. But yeah sounds like it's due for a tear-down. I doubt it's the carrier bearings though. GD

I've seen the metal one's swapped over to the plastic one's with seemingly no issue. Seen it done a couple times now. GD

You ain't kidding brother. I work on this junk every day and it makes me appreciate real non-disposable machines. All this stuff made in the last 10 years or so is COMPLETELY disposable. Subaru is already setting a trend of throwing away parts after about 10-15 years. Third generation Legacy parts are already being discarded. One of my former tech's works at the dealer parts department and he priced out an FA engine rebuild after a piston skirt failure and was over $9k in just parts. How long before that's WAY more than the value of the car? And when the electrical systems go haywire and you can't get any replacement parts or repairs..... the 4th gen Legacy HVAC panels for example. Anything that has CANBUS errors - it's basically a lost cause because no one will spend the diagnostic money to fix them and they can't pass inspections with a CEL. I had to let go of virtually all my old Subaru's as they aren't viable daily drivers anymore. Can't get any parts for them. I decided to go back to the Chevy Small Block because they have a WEALTH of available parts and Subaru has abandoned their early philosophy of simple and reliable and over-built to last. At least the SBC, designed in the 50's, was built to last and be repaired. And now my old Chevy's are well supported in the reproduction market - I can literally rebuild them out of a catalog. Not only can I get every part - I can get it in steel, stainless steel, or billet aluminium, and 15 different colors. The arduous search for non-existent parts is tiresome and I have a real life to live that doesn't involve that nonsense. And to top it off - my cars are appreciating in value while I drive them! Try that with a Subaru! GD

What lead to this conclusion? And yes it's essentially a full tear down/rebuild. GD

Yes - it would be fairly common engineering practice to increase RPM to warm engine oil and coolant. It provides cabin heat sooner which helps with faster defrost, etc. Also the oil thins out and this provides economy benefits. GD

We use Aisin, or sometimes NPW. Both are quality Japanese. The Gates pumps are no-name Chinese. GD

Get a factory PCV valve.

Yeah all those old 90's ones are the same. Even the early 90/91 stuff can be swapped to the newer style. Including turbo models IIRC. GD

Have you looked to see if the AC compressor is running when this occurs? The system may not require the defrost to be selected. AC helps to dry the air making the heat more efficient. For all I know that new of a model may have humidity sensors that will elect to run it in other modes. In any case there is NO adjustment for RPM under any condition. The system is 100% electronic. The ECU and TCU work in tandem to decide what engine RPM is applicable. If there are no warning lights or other indications of a concern from the computers on board you will just have to assume it's normal programming. And if there is a problem, no one here can help and there's nothing you can do yourself either. It would have to go to the dealership and be diagnosed with a Subaru Select Monitor (SSM). GD

It's because you are in defrost mode and it's running the AC compressor. The ECU decides how much RPM the compressor needs depending on temp and pressure sensors in the system. You have a CVT transmission and a DBW throttle control. If this was not as intended it would throw codes. GD

Sounds like check the weep hole to me. I just replaced a bad gates pump that had 35k on it. Their kits are GARBAGE. I've seen their tensioners fail, their water pumps fail, and their belts break before the change interval. Multiple times. I used to use their kits about 4+ years ago. I've had to warranty a few cars because of them. Do not use. GD

It would drain directly beneath the weep hole - which is at the bottom of the pump on back side toward the engine. Do you have pictures of the mating surfaces? Is there pitting or warpage? What brand is the pump? GD

You sure it's not leaking from the weep hole? The bolt torque is only 7 ft/lbs. GD

The parts are all through Subaru. Most are in-stock. You won't need syncro's. Just a rear input bearing, gaskets, and seals. About $150 in parts typically. The noise is the rear bearing, and the not going into gear is either damage to the shift slider (which can be repaired typically) or mis-alignment of the shafts due to the bearing failure. There is only rarely additional damage to these - and we have quite a few spare parts in our back room. We charge $800+ parts for bench tear down, diagnosis, and reassembly. I can usually turn it around in a day. I have the Dakota Digital unit in my Trans Am. It's garbage. My speedo jumps around all over the place when I'm stationary. GD

But why? This is so much more work than just using a VSSPro for $199 that creates the VSS off the wheel speed sensor. Very easy install. Also I'm not sure that's possible with the 6MT - it was never used on a pre-08 chassis. GD

Doubtful it could be done easily. The engine mounts are on the transmission on those models. It's an ENTIRELY different setup. You would incur the additional cost of installing an ABS wheel speed sensor and a VSS-Pro from Canada to simulate the speed sensor that all 08+ transmissions no longer have. I seriously doubt this would be an economical option. Especially for a 97. Just rebuild the trans that's in the car. They typically just need the rear input shaft bearing, seals and gaskets. GD

Based on the picture I would say that's a background image as it is not being displayed over the information. In other words it's intentional or a software glitch. Possibly a setting in there somewhere to change it. Not a screen failure IMO. GD

Most big radiator shops do AC. That's where I would start. I would trust a local guy with quality hose, crimps, and crimp machines to do it better than the $17 Chinese part. Any PAG oil with UV dye will work fine. It's only 1/2 oz for a line. Yes the single bolt holds both hoses on. You will need the o-rings from Subaru for the hoses. GD

I would add 1/2 oz oil with dye. I would have the hose repaired. There's a place in town that does that and they pickup/deliver to us. Mac's Radiator. Maybe someplace similar near you. It's typically about $80. You really need to pull a vacuum on the system after you fix the hose. Don't just put in refrigerant with those cans. Like as not you'll overcharge it. GD

What codes are you getting from the TCU? GD