GeneralDisorder

It is supposed to idle high when you "set" the choke by depressing the pedal to the floor once (or a couple times if it's really cold) and release. You should allow it to idle high for a 20 seconds to a minute before touching the throttle. When you blip the throttle with the engine running the engine vacuum can unset the choke (but not always - depends on where it's at in it's travel, etc) and the idle will drop to wherever the fast idle cam on the linkage is currently allowing it to drop to. Once fully up to temp it should have a normal 750 RPM idle speed. These are the ways of carbureted engines. This is normal operation - it is not like fuel injection where you just turn the key and drive. GD

Could be weak engine and transmission mounts causing the drivetrain to shift under acceleration. Possibly also shifter linkage/bushings. Either that or the bearings in the trans are clapped. GD

That's normal for idle. Alt must be shot then. GD

Alt shouldn't be that low at idle. Either the belt is slipping, the idle speed is too low, or it's bad. GD

Oil pump shaft seal. Cam tower o-rings. Bad lifters. Shifted lifter buckets. Cam spray bar pressure relief valve spring..... pick your culprit. It's usually a losing battle. You can solve the whole problem with a single performance modification - set it on fire and buy a Legacy. Seriously - it's a losing battle with an orphaned product. If the engine gets fixed you will just have that 3AT transmission fail on you and that's pretty much a dead end also. The oil pump drive shafts strip out the splines and you can't buy those anymore either. GD

Yeah it's right next to the one with the spade. Much easier with the intake unbolted. LoL. The alternator just has the two connections. Check the fuses in the main panel under the hood. GD

Nope - painted with silver spray paint, and the guy has no idea what years it fits. Don't go anywhere near anything that's been "rebuilt" and is painted like that. Call junk yards - you want a "core" engine from a car that was hit in the front and it blew off the timing. It will have bent valves so it's cheap, and you know it was running when it got in an accident. GD

Yes - that is the coolant temp sensor on the back of the coolant cross-over. Next to the gauge sender. Both are at the back to the left of the throttle body. GD

The Amsoil assembly lube we use has no moly or graphite. But the ARP assembly lube does. I'm sure you could use either. Motor oil just doesn't cut it. GD

Mostly it comes down to Subaru being a very small company and the aftermarket parts market doesn't care. They don't sell a lot of Subaru parts because all us professionals know better than to buy them, and that just makes the already small market even smaller and harder for them to get into. Gates and Stant have both tried selling rebranded TAMA thermostats and I guess it wasn't profitable because I don't see them available anymore. GD

Green is HNBR and is used in some AC systems but not by Subaru. Even the newest R134 systems use plain Nitrile black o-rings. It could be from anywhere an o-ring of that size is used as most shops (including mine) have generic o-ring assortments on hand and use them whenever and wherever neccessary. HNBR can be used on many things - hydraulic (PS), fuel, AC, etc. GD

You have 5 choices: 1. Complain till they fix it. Possibly including standing out front of the dealership with a sign that reads "Ask me how I like my driver's seat!" 2. Pay for a new seat 3. Pay for a used seat 4. Trade in or sell the vehicle. 5. Light the vehicle on fire in front of the dealership and urinate on the ashes. This list is, of course, not entirely exhaustive. There are more exotic solutions should the means be available to you.... first Subaru in orbit for example. GD

The newer style tripod joint axles don't have any retaining mechanism to hold the tripod into the cup of the inner joint. You have pulled the joint apart. You will have to probably disconnect the ball joint to get some play so you can manipulate it back into the joint. You will just have to play with it till it slips back in. As for the axle nut - you need an impact. Either electric/pneumatic or a 4lb drilling hammer and a 1/2 ratchet, etc. GD

I refer to most everything as junk. And I trash on most of it. It takes quite a machine to impress me these days. Here's a work of art. 500 AWHP. Yes, I built it. No, it isn't mine:

Amsoil synthetic in everything I own. EA81, EJ's.... my 86 Trans Am LB9 305 V8. Lawn Mower (Honda), Robin (Subaru) powered pressure washer..... Leaky gaskets actually leak because there's no sludge or varnish in the engine to stop up the holes. If it leaks - reseal it. If you want the junk to last - Amsoil goes a long way toward making that happen. GD

Yes I use the ARP lube for case bolts, rod bolts, etc. The Lubriplate is an off-white paste. It doesn't flow at all. Any weight of oil or "assembly lube" will creep and flow out of the bearings after assembly but before you get it started. I use assembly lube (Amsoil) for other applications like lifter buckets, and we use it for stock Subaru head bolts. GD

It would accelerate better off the line. Lower ultimate top speed...... that's about it. It's not a problem at all. Makes it a lot more fun or helps correct for larger tires. Lifted WRX's are something we do from time to time and personally I like the look.

You need a factory Subaru thermostat. They are made by Tama so if you find a supplier that sells those they will also work. ALL OTHERS WILL NOT WORK. That is almost certainly your problem. Your water pump is fine. The impeller is cast iron. GD

What brand is the thermostat?

That should be a MAP car so the intake air temp sensor is usually in the airbox before the throttle body. GD

The main journals in the block get compressed due to crankshaft flex from rod pressure exerted by the the force of combustion in the cylinders. This flex compresses the aluminium of the block such that in the thrust direction the main bearing oil clearances are opened up over time. The stock bearing clearance spec is .0004" to .0012" - I have seen engines with as much as .0035" on the #3 main. Excessive clearance on the main journals leads to insufficient oil supply to the rod bearings. Remember - aluminium has very similar density to oak - and the same feeds and speeds for machining are used for both. All the combustion pressure on the Subaru crank - which although being forged has some areas that are VERY thin in cross-section - causes deflection. This pounds the main line into an hour-glassed shape where the front and rear mains are usually close to spec, but 2, 3, and 4 are hogged out and it's like a hotdog down a hallway in there. It is for this reason that I WILL NOT rebuild a used engine without doing a main-line hone. Which involves surfacing the case on the smooth side, and honing the mains back to spec. It can only be done once. GD

442 can be a number of things. To know for sure you need to have a smoke test performed. First step is to get a new fuel filler cap from Subaru. They occasionally go bad and aren't that expensive. Clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does have a shop perform a smoke test - tell them you want to do the repair yourself you just need them to tell you where the leak is. GD

It's the most common cause by far.

I have tried the anaerobic flange sealants but the success rate isn't 100% and the cleanup if you have to take it apart in the future is HORRENDOUS. The RTV sealants really are the best for this job, but not all are created equal. We use and reccomend the Three Bond products used by Subaru. The current flavor that supersedes all previous variants is 1217H. The Ultra Grey products are ok, but are a little softer when set. Application to the case halves for assembly is extremely delicate. I use the smallest tip I can get on my tube of 1217H to apply it around the bolt holes closest to the mains and then a razor blade to spread and scrape it back from critical lubrication passages. VERY thin application so as to minimize squeeze out. It can be a frustrating race against the clock if it's hot in the shop. The thin application wants to dry on you. I chose my rod/main assembly lube based on being able to apply it before I start the RTV application and not have it run or creep on me. Lubriplate Engine Assembly lube is the answer in that regard. GD

The warning light is as low pressure light. It does not indicate the level is low. If you had to add 3 quarts and it barely registers then it was completely out of oil. This usually results in irreversible damage to the engine. When you change the oil, you need to cut open the filter and check for metal, etc. GD