GeneralDisorder

AFAIK they were not a separate part from the glass itself. All that stuff is no longer available (NLA). You'll probably have to make them yourself. GD

www.car-part.com You'll have to find one and ship it. Or fab one yourself. Pretty simple answer really. What other options are possible? GD

Commonly available adapters for the Weber do not fit the intake manifold of the Carter. There is essentially nothing for the Carter and if equipped it would easier to swap to a Hitachi manifold. I can't recall seeing any Carter equipped EA81's after 1982. Anything is possible though and of course engines/carbs get swapped on 40 year old cars. GD

They do in fact have two crank sensors. I've never heard an explanation as to why. The EG33 is unique in the Subaru world in this respect. GD

You should make new hoses. Buy a crimper, hose fitting ends, and bulk hose. When you do you can purchase whatever drier you like. They are cheap and made in tons of combinations. I would figure out a generic modern R134 Sanden compressor and make new brackets. That R12 stuff was $hit anyway on R134 and you'll have no end of problems. If it doesn't lock up or blow out the shaft seal it probably will have mediocre performance. Flush the evap and condenser and cross fingers. Run a trinary switch for pressure shut off and fan control. Went through all this with my 86 Trans Am. Then you find out there's really not enough airflow through the front end to support it's use if it's really hot out. Remember you will be dumping all the cabin heat into the radiator and also blocking airflow to the radiator with the condenser core all in addition to a 15 HP load on a 74 HP engine. I have NEVER seen a really great functioning AC system in an EA81 vehicle. With all the Brat windows and t-tops and poor insulation I would be surprised at any system that could do more than 10-15 degrees and not overheat the engine. GD

Either way - the head gaskets on the belt motors are more reliable. The FB's are mixing coolant and oil and we are seeing oil in the radiators. Just did HG's on a 2013 with 82k on it. Oil in the radiator. Often people don't catch it in time and it results in bottom end failure. If anything the HG problems have gotten significantly worse with the FB's. The engines are almost entirely glued together and are labor intensive to take apart and put together since so much cleaning of liquid gasket maker is involved. Honestly we prefer the EJ's in every case. The FB engines are absolute trash IMO. The early one's burn oil due to piston ring issues, the turbo variants like to lose piston skirts and usually trash the cylinder bore, the leak from the timing chain cover and destroy the front AFR sensor, and then there's the ECU issues - they can randomly "learn" a cam advance angle that they can't unlearn and then you have to replace all the timing sprockets, the cam sensors, and the ECU plus program the immobilizer...... it's an ABSOLUTE $hit show. GD

Poverty caps...... Nice if you live in the 2nd or 3rd world. Otherwise it's a mark of poverty. GD

That's quite common. It calls for ATF in my Firebird with the Tremec T5. Plenty of Honda's run 5w30 in their manuals. The world record 1.0 liter Justy used ATF in it's manual to reduce friction. GD

Honestly you could probably run just about anything in the old 4 speed transmission - Dexron, 10w hydraulic oil, even 15w40 motor oil. The military has variously used all of these in Allisson auto transmissions for decades and as well as HMMWV's that have had 4L60's, turbo 400's, and more recently the 4L80E's. All used under pretty ugly conditions. My 26,000lb truck came with 15w40 in it's Allisson and it was built in 2008. I've even run across a couple EARLY Legacy's with Dex in the front differential. Seemingly to no real problem - one in particular was a 1990 that had well over 300k on it when it was finally retired. Ran ATF in the front for 200k miles that I know of. It's more about proper maintenance and observing the intervals of fluid changes - which does depend on what fluid you are running - some have longer life than others. Oil analysis is the best bet here. GD

No. Unnecessary in our experience. Assuming good surface and thread prep. GD

Clean your throttle body. As in remove it and scrub it out. With DBW throttle control the ECU uses the throttle motor for idle control. They get dirty, respond slowly, and they drop outside the range of the proportional, integral, and derivative (PID) gain controls the ECU uses to stabilize it's operation. GD

While you are 100% correct - it's a life skill that any self respecting man, woman, gear-head, etc should learn. So owning one for a while is a good choice. GD

Actually the O2 comes online much sooner than operating temp. The sensor has it's own heating element and will be online and operating within about 2 minutes typically. GD

Throw junior in a manual and let him figure it out. Why are we babying him? The auto trans in that forester is much more reliable than the head gaskets in it's engine. Also much cheaper to replace. Generally. I have a customer with a 1999 Outback that is on it's third automatic at 160k miles. Both of the previous units suffered catastrophic front differential failure. So it does happen and I would say the most common failure on the 4EAT is probably front diff failure. GD

Save the money on the snake oil. Gaskets are installed dry. GD

Doesn't matter - they already passed that junk bill in Oregon - waste of ink. They just sell them to the guys transporting them out of state. The guy I sell to trucks them to Chicago. GD

Yeah might want to check fuel pressure. Those cars are known for the metal cap inside the fuel pump assembly blowing off. Also may be a partially plugged exhaust. Do you have a gauge you can install into the O2 sensor port before the cat? Beyond that - don't expect to see misfire codes immediately - these ECU's are pretty dumb and may take a pretty severe misfire and running them for quite a little while before they toss code. GD

Have you pulled the plugs out to see if any of them are fouled? Leaking injector could foul a plug.... etc. Sounds like a classic misfire to me. Diamond coil, NGK plugs and wires? GD

We switched to the Amsoil assembly lube and have better results with it. Cheaper too. We use it with the factory bolts, yes. It has the least propensity for creaking of anything we have used. Same torque regardless of SOHC or DOHC. We degrease the bolts and we also brake-clean the block threads and chase them with a head bolt that has several die grinder vertical slots cut into it. I generally apply the Amsoil assembly lube in two vertical lines up the threads 180 degrees apart. And lube between the bolt head and washer - washer to head is left dry although some lube often finds it way there and isn't an issue. Don't over-lube the bolts - this can hydraulically damage the block if there is too much in the bottom of the hole. GD

Much simpler, given they made 2006 Baja XT's, to just buy one and start with that. The Baja XT is very similar to a similar year STi except with a 5MT. Cost to do this swap is probably in the neighborhood of $10k in parts to do it the right way. You'll always be money ahead starting with a turbo chassis from the factory. GD

MAF sensors are extremely sensitive. So sensitive that I can't even begin to illustrate it to you. You should endeavor to replicate the EXACT conditions of a factory intake and MAF sensor as much as possible...... The ECU has a VERY CAREFULLY defined MAF sensor scaling table. ANY changes to the filter box, bends near the MAF, or the MAF housing itself WILL result in incorrect and non-linear scaling. The ECU on a '93 is not capable of flash programming and thus not capable of ANY adjustments for MAF scaling. You will ALWAYS be best served by EXACTLY replicating the factory intake and it's air filter. Make sure all connections are clean and tight. There is NO PERFORMACE to be had without tuning of the MAF scaling. Which is not possible without a stand-alone ECU. LINK ecu does make a plug-and-play compatible ECU for this application. It is speed density and you can toss that manufacturer specific MAF and it's housing. GD

https://arpinstructions.com/instructions/260-4701.pdf When using Subaru head bolts we use a modified ARP sequence. The guys have found through testing and empirical evidence that a sequence of 30, 60, 85 followed by an additional torque to 90 on the center bolts works just as well as anything Subaru has published. You MUST ensure that NO creaking takes place. We use Amsoil Assembly Lube on the threads. GD

Pictures. GD

Manuals have clutches that wear out - and their computer interface of a chimp rowing a stick about mindlessly is less than ideal in most cases. Auto's are smarter at traction control and the torque converter acts as a built in low range. If built properly the automatic will win in every category, every time even against an experienced manual transmission operator. That's just the facts people. And you all know I'm not biased due to lack of any kind of driving skill with either system. The failings are now entirely within the implementation - wiring, computers, planned obsolescence, products rushed to market with insufficient testing, etc, etc. Consumer automotive products made in the last 20 years are largely dead to me. Just plain garbage. GD

Cut the oil filter and look for metal. The consistency of the sound suggests a lifter. Rod knocks tend to sound inconsistent with engine RPM. GD