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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
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If fuel trim decreases (from high positive trim) with RPM, it's a vacuum leak. If it increases it's a fuel delivery problem. Those are the rules for MAF cars. They only apply loosely to SD cars like your Forester. It could have a massive below-throttle vacuum leak I suppose but it would be obvious. More likely the MAP sensor has failed. GD
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MAP sensor readings are whacked. Being the MAP is an absolute pressure sensor, it should read 29.92 in/hg with the engine off. Subtract the usual idle vacuum of a healthy engine (18 to 22 in/hg) and the sensor should read ~10 in/hg at closed throttle idle. IAT is pretty far off but if it was idling for a long time the under hood temps might have got it there. Still - with an 86 degree delta over ambient I would question it. Checking it in free air would be wise. Check the MAP sensor with the engine off against local barometric pressure. And then with a shop vacuum gauge. Dealers and even most shops are unable to handle this level of troubleshooting for the most part. You may need to ask around at who can actually do real diagnostics and understands EFI live data. Usually best to find someone that is well versed in performance tuning. And yes this will cost - their time is valuable.
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Clutch Cable replacement blunders
GeneralDisorder replied to gadberry's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
150k...... ish. GD -
Your experience with hovercrafts is irrelevant. I see plenty of SVX's for sale here in OR. There was one not 20 minutes from me for $1500 on craigslist last week. You can sell it as dirty aluminum. You get more than steel, but less than clean aluminum. It's a thing - here anyway. Yeah I'm a fake. Totally. Check my post count. GD
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LoL. You can buy whole SVX's for less than that. And with a blown HG no less? Bonus points that count toward sitting at the cool kids table no doubt. LOL. JDM import EZ30's with a warranty cost about that much. What exactly do you think you have there? Looks like a big question mark looking for an anchor chain to me. Scrap it.
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Unfortunately unless you are planning to do your own work (or have deep pockets), and collect parts and parts cars as a side hobby - they are tough to maintain now due to poor availability of parts and knowledge. Many critical engine and drivetrain parts are no longer manufactured and are never likely to be again. GD
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I have never had to do that on a Subaru clutch master. The hose will be wet if it's bad. Slave should be good if it's only a year old. Bleeding these can be a process. As a matter of necessity and through shear force of will we developed a process that works 100% in about 10 minutes with two guys. But once upon a time many moons ago I remember spending about 6 hour on one. Just about started throwing tools. And I NEVER throw tools.
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There's a fool-proof process for the bleeding. It does take two people. We have it down to about 10 minutes. But that doesn't appear to be his problem. If it's stiff pedal when the slave is clamped then it's not a fluid problem. Could be a weak spring behind the slave piston I suppose. But I've seen way too many of those first year LGT push clutches lose their fork......like all of them. And they have that damn dual mass flywheel. The fork was superseded to the 06+ version due to being extremely weak and prone to the legs folding off.
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If the pedal is firm with the clamp on the slave then it's not your problem. 05 LGT's had the weak turbo push-clutch fork. And the dual mass flywheel. You need the 08-14 WRX clutch, flywheel and upgraded 06+ fork. And before you end up with a blown turbo - pull all the banjo bolt filters and re-route all the turbo oil feed from the rear block main gallery. GD