GeneralDisorder

You can do a couple drain and fills with a few hundred miles between. Once you have done it twice you should be good for 30k. Then just do a single drain and fill every 30k. GD

Whenever I have replaced the map light or soldered it, I have cleared the code with my scanner. If you can read it, can you not also clear it?

Well the LED's have to work in addition to the resistors. Have you tested them with the meter? It's easy to do..... GD

Well obviously I'm biased because it's not much of a thing for us to do these, but I would swap them out with 642's and be done with it. But yeah if you don't mind it being nasty under there - essentially forever till the HG's are replaced - then drop in the coolant conditioner, and run it. Change out the engine mounts, and steering rack bushings for urethane so the oil soaking doesn't turn them to goo. Same with the rack boots but those you just have to change out regularly when they got swollen and fall off. GD

Not really worthwhile. These are bolt-in hub assemblies and they are not designed to be taken apart. The use of a hammer or press is required and the only way to get them apart involves impacting or pressing through the rolling elements of the bearing - very likely causing brinelling to the races and shortening their lifespan. They were designed to be pressed together and stay that way till replacement. It would be easier to just machine a new bearing assembly that's serviceable and reuse the hub. GD

The only time we have had that problem is when the 200 lb gorilla on the tool over torques the sensor and breaks the head. I have had to weld that problem twice. We have done hundreds of these head gaskets though and anyone that has happened to has only done it once. If you are getting the code after that mess, then like as not there is a blockage related to the tapping, or whatever other machining operations occured to rectify the "accident". You should remove the duty solenoids and their adapter plate. There is a screen filter under the plate that should be checked. Having a keen sense of the torque required for an 1/8" BSPT thread and using the proper sealant is absolutely critical here. Inch pounds torque wrench is highly recommended if you aren't 100% comfortable with this size of fitting.

The oil pressure switches are there to tell the ECU if oil pressure is getting through the duty solenoids. That's why you get a code 26/28 when the switch fails but the code is actually an AVLS duty solenoid performance code because the ECU has no way to detect a switch failure (or low oil pressure for that matter). Ironically it's always the switches that fail - often leaking large amounts of oil from the harness connector. The system has no need for variable pressure as it can only be in the locked or unlocked positions. It has no way to vary the lift on the secondary rocker - it either uses the small lobe for secondary rocker lift, or locks the secondary rocker to the primary rocker and both use the high lift lobe.

It doesn't use oil pressure sensors. It uses duty solenoids to regulate pressure to the AVLS rockers, and switches to confirm the duty solenoids are activating and that pressure is being fed to the rockers. The system in not particularly pressure sensitive, and at the RPM it kicks in the engine oil pressure is more than sufficient to actuate the rockers. They are on or off, not variable. Further the oil pressure will not be significantly different on either side of the engine, unless the engine is clapped out, in which case it really doesn't matter if this system works or not. GD

Foreign Engines Inc. in Lynnwood, WA. GD

Too much difficult with the window seals, etc. Probably rip everything to shreds trying to get them off. The window/door seals are glued in, and the rails are sealed to the body, etc. Just cover them with black vinyl (automotive decal vinyl). That's what we do. GD

Amsoil CVT fluid every 30k if it's the CVT model. Amsoil on all the other fluids also. Signature series 0w20. GD

Any screens in that engine are plugged or blown out. Generally you don't need such things if you run good oil and filters. Like the turbo banjo bolt screens - we always remove them and throw them away. The pressure relief valve is going to be around 90 psi. Yes absolutely dissasemble, clean, and inspect it. Though honestly with the condition of that lump I would buy a new oil pump, or a JDM replacement engine. GD

That's normal. Just replace the head gaskets.

95's do have the OBD-II port and are partially compliant though here in OR the DEQ ignores it anyway. 90 to 94 is first generation, 95 to 99 is second. Superior Soobie and Import. Just google us. I'm in the Milwaukie area. GD

2.2's really don't have piston slap due to their relatively large skirts. Sounds like probably lifter noises or possibly timing tensioner. I could tell you exactly if you bring it by the shop. GD

Subaru does not restrict their availability. They nearly encourage the sharing of the manuals. You can buy a 72 hour subscription to the Subaru tech-info web site for $35 and download as many PDF's as you like to keep forever. They simply don't care who has them or where they got them. I doubt they even bother getting copyrighted on these. They DO enforce their Trademark's, but that's about it. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU GD

Send it to Philbin manufacturing and have it rebuilt/modified as needed. That unit will be 85/86 specific using a separate ignition/knock module. You could just use an NA distributor and an MSD box that has programmable boost retard. GD

You just need to wire in a VSS Pro from The DCCD guys. Works off the wheel speed sensor: https://www.dccdpro.com/product/vsspro/ GD

You can't really "alleviate" the cold start issues. The engine has half its normal operating temp main journal clearance when cold, but full rod bearing clearance. You can't force enough oil through the mains to get adequate oiling of the rods when cold under load. This is just how Subaru engines work. They should not be heavily loaded when cold. The 5w50 is a signature series oil and is a GREAT oil worthy of running in high performance engines. Its actually specified for the Ford Focus RS making 350 HP. It is a long life oil, being designed for up to 25,000 miles. The Dominator oil withstands higher temperatures and greater shear. It will not lose its viscosity and thin down as quickly. It runs cooler and has the high zinc and phosphorus required by aftermarket turbo and camshaft suppliers. The Dominator is NOT a long life oil and is only good for about 5,000 miles. GD

Yes - Snap-On has support for it in their scan tools. But I think it's starting in the $2500 level tool. What you are paying for here really is the software that it comes with. No one else supports the range of makes, models, and systems that they support. As you are seeing. My local dealer uses the top-of-the-line Snap-On scan tool offering (which starts at about $15,000 and goes up depending on number of hand-helds, etc) in preference to the latest Select Monitor. Only using the Select Monitor when they have to for reflashing and the like. They also use Snap-On software in the parts department instead of what Subaru offers. Rom-Raider has no support, nor does any other software (ECUFlash, EVOScan, etc) that uses the Tactrix cable. Not that it couldn't physically do it, but no one has programmed that ability. I'm quite sure the Tactrix hardware would be capable of the communications protocols, but no one is really interested in talking to the SRS computer so it is sure to never be supported. GD

Going up a grade or two in viscosity can increase pressure, but it is a double-edged sword. It flows poorly when cold, and retains more heat due to increased friction. These are both detrimental in their own ways. Subaru engines in particular have extremely tight cold clearances due to the aluminum block design. The clearances are not stable with respect to temperature. If you run an oil like a 40 or a 50 you need to allow longer warmup times to reach thermal stability and maximize thermal growth of the main journal clearances or you will starve the rod bearings. We run Amsoil Dominator 15w50 in a our race engines and they require a 15 minute warm up period prior to driving. We also blueprint all the journal clearances to within a couple tenths and they are specifically set to very near the maximum Subaru clearance specification. GD

Clapped. And that engine is a varnish pit. Gross. Should have checked oil pressure prior to tearing it down. Replace all the guides, the tensioners, the water pump, and hope you make 200k before the head gaskets go or the abused bottom end throws a rod. That's disgusting. And if it had been maintained properly with synthetic the guides would show no wear, the oil pressure wouldn't be a problem, and the you wouldn't have it opened up. GD

I don't think the gauge cluster can access the SRS module like that. If it can I don't think it's documented anyway. As Tom mentions Subaru is pretty tough with scan tool support as they are not the first on the list for the aftermarket scan tool manufacturers. Snap-On may have one that can do it for less than $1k. Mine was $3k. GD

I'm not sure on that one. I use a pretty expensive Snap-On scanner so I'm not sure what offerings are out there that can do this on the cheap. It's getting more common - you can check the manufacturers web site.... or just drop by an independent shop with a pro level scan tool and ask them to scan it for you. GD

No, not rid of. Just feel it's only fair to warn people this won't be an easy path. Pretty soon, if you want any EA engine parts you'll be machining them yourself. This stuff is getting ridiculously scarce and the supply is definitely going to be incapable of supporting the ones left on the road (or still parked near it). Sure there are options for swapping, but in reality those aren't feasible for but a select few that have the skills or the sizable wallet to get the job done. You can't open a catalog and buy engine swap kits like your can for an old Chevy. It took several months, and more money than most here are willing to spend just to get my lifted hatch to a state capable of driving to/from some trails a couple hours away. And that's after only sitting a couple years in front of my shop. I had to dig deep into the parts stash and search far and wide for decent power steering rack I could still save. I spent over $1k in parts to drive it three times this summer and I'm not even done - still need to tie up a few loose ends.