GeneralDisorder

The advice is - DO NOT run a manual boost control on a Subaru. You can't increase the boost by doing this. The computer will shut off your fuel and throw a P0244 wastegate performance code. Your on a path of destruction here - without proper timing and fuel control you may get a little higher boost but you will squirt the rod bearings right out of that poor old abused 2 liter. Get a tactrix cable and tune the car properly. Manual Boost Controllers are for small block chevys and DSM's. Subaru's don't work this way. GD

They all leak. We just leave them. Never seems to cause any issues. With some spacers you could use the solid mounts from an STI, etc if desired. Replacement complete units are around $80 from Subaru. GD

That is correct. It probably leans to the right because of the usual 4 speed shifter slop. The 4 speed linkage was horrible and sloppy and the 4 speed likes to lose 3rd gear and bend/break shift forks. Best thing to do is swap it for a 5 speed GD

Not on 25D's. They all use the flat-bottom 4.5 quart pan. Buy a new dipstick from Subaru they are like $11. Use the VIN to get the right one. OR buy an oil pan and dipstick as a matched set for a 2006 STI. You will get more capacity and better baffling. Yes the tubes are all the same length. GD

25D's are difficult to get the air out of. You have to pull the bleeder out of the passenger top of the radiator to let out the air as you fill. Then they typically work fine. You MUST use an OEM thermostat, and quality water pump that has close enough tolerances between blades and housing to efficiently clear the air pockets. Being this is a 96/97 25D there is also an extremely high head gasket failure rate and the more you mess around with it and overheat it, the more likely that becomes. It also helps, once you get it warmed up, to use a fill funnel to get the level higher than the engine bay, and then rev it up to 5k rpm repeatedly till the thermostat opens and the air pocket clears. Make sure you get the oil up to temp before you start revving the beans out of it. That's how we clear the air on all of them. 50% of the time it works 100% of the time. GD

We are filthy with rust-free Baja's up here in the NW. Just buy one and ship it. Way too much work to stop the cancer after the fact. Get a new one and treat it before it starts. Shipping is $1k or less typically. Not even worth the effort to address a rusted out uni-body. You really can't stop it forever anyway once it's gone that far. It's just garbage. GD

High speed doesn't use the resistors. Probably either a failing blower motor or a relay that can't stay pulled in. GD

Knock sensor would be my primary suspect. They are difficult to diagnose but when over-active can cause the ECU to pull timing. The ECU will not code for this as it assumes a poor quality fuel situation is to blame. Live data with generic OBD-II gives nothing with respect to knock data on older models, and even in SSM modes only the newer 32 bit ECU's have per-cylinder knock counts so it's less than helpful. Best thing to do if you are seeing it pull timing or getting the typical hesitation symptoms is to just get a new JECS knock sensor. They are cheap and quick to replace. FWIW I've never had to replace a Subaru MAP sensor. And they are very easy to diagnose as the manifold pressure is in the live data streams. Should be about 19 to 22 in/hg. You may have to convert units and adjust for the output as it's usually an "absolute" pressure. GD

Really doesn't matter since Gates kits are absolute trash. GD

No the intake will not bolt on and the EJ20 intake is not compatible with the 98 ECU. GD

The early units from 2010, etc are just now starting to trickle out of warranty. It was extended to 10 years /100k and Subaru is good-willing plenty of them that are a little out of the mileage range, etc. The demand will SHARPLY rise and prices will skyrocket in the next couple years as Subaru say NO to the warranty requests. Mark my words. GD

Since you only removed one side, the other side should be in the correct position for the lash to be OK still. And when it comes to differential carrier bearings, tighter is typically better. To the point that differential shops will use case spreaders to get more shims in the carrier bearings for additional pre-load. Roller bearings like pre-load. They do not like to be loose, and when the case expands it's going to expand at twice the rate of the carrier because aluminium has twice the coefficient of thermal expansion. I wouldn't sweat it too much just get it tight. Make sure that the carrier is centered and gravity isn't pulling it down and keeping you from getting it seated. GD

The Amsoil CVT fluid exceeds the specs of the Subaru fluid and is $10 a quart cheaper: https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/synthetic-cvt-fluid/ GD

They introduced the HD model when the 3.6 got the CVT. It's also used on the 15+ WRX's. I am not sure when they quit using the non-HD unit on the NA 4 cylinders. Subaru is replacing the older CVT's at an alarming rate. They extended the warranty to 100k on all of them. We do believe that some of the rate of failure is due to extended fluid intervals. Fluid is cheap - transmissions aren't. We recommend all auto's - CVT or 4/5EAT have the fluid drain/fill done every 60k with synthetic or every 30k with the stock fluids. We prefer Amsoil ATF and CVT fluid and are comfortable with it at an "extended" interval of 60k. GD

Subaru's don't have the DI carbon problem. They have 4 extra port injectors to clean the intake valves in addition to the main DI injectors. This is a system they borrowed from Toyota and I haven't seen a single problem with intake carbon build up. The early CVT's were fragile. The fluid should be changed every 30k on the pre-HD models. GD

Or you could go even cheaper and get an oil pressure cut-out switch. As for troubleshooting - those rev sensors take power, ground, and a tach signal. And they output power for the fuel pump and some also power the choke. The wiring is pretty simple and easily figured out from wire colors and sizes - tach signal is going to be small and yellow, power supply and fuel pump are going to be larger and one will be ignition switched hot, the other will show a low resistance through the pump windings. Ground will likely be black. Start by checking for the tach pulse at the unit, and check for power and ground of course. Test light will do the job. Ultimately if you jump power to the pump it should run, and if you have power, ground, and tach signal present then the FPCU is bad. It's pretty much that simple. GD

Old lug nut, fender washer, and some grease is the easiest DIY way. Or pull the hub off and hammer it in with a socket supporting the hub on the threaded side. GD

Blown head gaskets. The longer you wait, the more damage you will do. /thread GD

JFC - DO NOT HONE!!! Ya got that? People never listen. Honing is a disease. Flexhones are a gimmick. If your junk is that bad it needs to be bored. GD

The white smoke is just the Seafoam itself burning. You can do the same thing with a trickle of water. It's not necessary in either case. Keep the snake oil away from your engine. That little plastic bit.... well I would try to retrieve it, but if it comes down to it having gone down an intake port and through an open valve then I would just fire the engine. That bit of plastic isn't going to amount to beans inside the combustion chamber. It would be smashed, melted, and blown out the exhaust with zero damage to the engine. Now the turbine wheel is another story. But it is unlikely to do much at that point being very likely vapor or just soft melted goo. GD

That hole does not lead to the throttle body, and the throttle body doesn't require cleaning. That's a wallet flushing technique used by the dealer. It is not a recommended maintenance procedure from Subaru nor is it at all useful unless the throttle body is exhibiting abnormal behavior such as slow response, idle hunting, etc. No such procedure is outlined by the service manual. There is a Subaru of America snake oil sold by the dealers that is an upper engine cleaner but it's designed to clean the intake valves not the throttle body. Part number SA459..... You can download the service manual and go through the procedure but it's pretty straightforward - disconnect everything and pull the manifold. You want to pull the whole thing do not attempt to pull only the top off. GD

First off - shame for spraying Seafoam into a 2016. That's completely unnecessary snake oil. Won't accomplish anything but make your wallet lighter. Second - I think you're looking at pulling it WAY apart to retrieve that guy. Only possible chance is a grabber tool or chewing gum though that little hole - assuming you can see it with a flashlight, etc. https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-70399-Lighted-Mechanical/dp/B002RHP7TS/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1531620532&sr=1-3 If that doesn't work you are most likely looking at an intake pull. Good time to upgrade charge pipes, intercooler, etc. GD

Junk. KYB or Tokico GD

You buy standard rings, and install them. That's it. No measurement is generally required on standard bore sizes. You can check ring gap if you like. I've never had to gap standard sized rings. If you bore it oversized or are doing a special build with NOS or high boost, etc then you need to gap them for the application. I use NPR rings. GD

Nice - that second one is a wallet flush. Egregiously overpriced - They buy all that stuff for about $40 and it takes the tech like 15 minutes to do it. All profit for no work at all. Totally awesome (for them). Does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. Probably does more harm than good taking the airbox on and off that often. Reassembly mistakes - they use a $10/Hr lube tech for this stuff. Seriously there is ZERO measurable benefit to these snake oil cleaning products - besides at 30k there's literally nothing to clean. That engine should be spotless inside unless you drove through a volcanic eruption without an air filter. As a shop owner I am both well aware of, and completely disgusted by these practices and will NEVER allow this sort of thing in my shop. I literally run the snake oil salesman off my property with threats of violence. That sort of service provides NO benefit to the customer. In our experience the rear diff gear oil is pretty nasty at 30k. Front is usually fine. We do 30k rear, and 60k front. We have seen some rear diff failures on the limited slip models starting in the 2000's on up. Better safe. But rear diff gear oil change should be $60. It's a 0.5 hour and 10.25 for the Subaru gear oil. She got completely ripped off. Sorry. GD