GeneralDisorder

The weber flow's better than the stock SPFI, so with a weber, and bigger exhaust, you can max out the performance allowed by the valves, cam and intake manifold. but a weber is not stock, and thus not a fair comparison since the SPFI is legal to drive in all 50 states.... GD

There's pretty much just that solenoid on the side of the tranny - either that is not being activated, or not functioning, or the tranny has internal problems. I don't have one of these, so have never had to diagnose this issue before. GD

Yes - your hydrualic valve lifters are 1. Dirty, and 2. Not getting enough oil pressure. Run 20x50 Castrol GTX, and 1/2 bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil. This will help, but if it comes back later, you should replace your oil pump to get better pressure to the lifters. The seals in the oil pump get old and hard, and the pump does not do it's job well enough. This is so common, it's genuinely funny how many posts there are about this each week. GD

I'm not sure what controls the 4WD on your car - but I think it's a vacuum solinoid on the side of the tranny - does the indicator light on the dash come on? GD

The tire area under the hood is for a donut spare - the rear hold down will work on a tire, but is there for holding down whatever you want. Full size spare's with wagon wheels WILL fit under the hood as well. GD

If it's not a filter, or a pressure regulator, and your getting fuel, I would say file that little sucker in the round-file. One less thing to blow up later.... GD

I would replace your rear diff - or at least inspect it - take it apart and have a look. Could be a mess inside - that would esplain why your rear wheels don't turn. GD

Yes - 81 Brats are gen 1, but they DID come with EA81's..... that is why I posted. Oh - one thing - all Gen 1's (so I hear) have a 4.11 rear diff, so that will have to be changed to mach whatever tranny you go with... GD

Dear lord - 3? and another one comming? How much are you paying for these? So your using 4 to make one? They must be in awful shape eh? Lets see some pics - maybe you will have some parts to sell from all those? GD

Not bad man - few bolts out, remove old gasket, clean, inspect head for major cracks, new gasket, install, torque bolts to specifications in correct order. Get an underwear manual, and follow the directions. All you really need is a little patience. GD

Do a search on the board for "axle dissasembly" There is an excelent post about it from Edrach - detailing all the tools you'll need, and the entire procedure. I would post the URL, but people need to learn to do the search function :-) GD

Depends on the quality of the split boot, and how it's installed. We (US ARMY) use split boots all the time on the bigger trucks. Hummer's don't use them, but duece's and 5 tons do. One thing we discovered on those - they have a zipper for the split, and it's best to cover the whole zipper on the outside with RTV - keeps them from unzipping, and keeps the dirt out. GD

81 Brat's had the EA81, so it can be done. I think the engine mounts are different? Could probably get those from a dealer tho - just ask for '81 Brat mounts..... GD

axle grease in the eye! LOL GD

Some pumps just make noise - doesn't mean it's going out. I know a chevy astro that's like that - you can hear it through the floor - and that pump is brand new as of like two weeks ago - I helped install it (what a bitch BTW). Aren't the VW / Audi ones in the tank? I remeber my friend had a problem where the stator on the pump motor went out, and he would have to smack the fuel tank to get the pump to start turning again..... pretty funny when you think about it. GD

I think he's refering to the flasher unit - the part that actually does the flashing. Not the switch in the column. I don't know where it is exactly.... GD

Depends on what kind of flexible line you run, but no matter what I would say you will notice a much spongier feel to the brakes. The rubber will expand and contract, and you won't get nearly as much braking force with flexible lines. You could use stainless steel braided lines, but that would be WAY more expensive than hard line, and still not as good. For short runs (the shorter the better) the expansion of the rubber is acceptable, but the longer the run, the more "sponge" you will feel in the pedal. And I'm sure tha flareing brake line is like any other job - if you have the right tool (not a cheapo one), then it becomes much easier, and probably less time consuming than you think. GD

That would be neat! Although useing the Brat has challenges as far as the US military are concerned. Everything we have is 24 volt, and deisel. Besides that - a Brat simply has no role to fill in the military - the hummer does everything a Brat does (possible exception bieng top speed), and can haul 1.25 tons. Not to mention the fact that there's armored versions... etc, etc. And can you beat the price GM sells them for? A new hummer (last time I checked) started at about $18,000 for the military version. And I'm curious as to what we (in the US) would gain from haveing them built in russia? We couldn't register them to drive here in the states cause they won't pass safety standards for their year of manufacture. (BTW - that's probably a part of why they stopped selling them here in 87..... that, and not enough sales to warrant a re-design). Other countries with less safety standards kept getting them till around 94 near as I can find out. Although I must admit having a source of sheet metal for our old cars would be cool. GD

yep - or 4 x 5 1/2" I say this cause when you modify toyota 6 lug wheels, you use 6 x 5 1/2" rims, and drill out the missing two holes. And if you want some rims - just get a 1/2" drill, and a bit the size of your lugs, and drill out some chevy or toyota 6 lugs. It's easy. I believe the stock offset is near zero, but I have no actual data to this effect. GD

for your EA82, you will just have to run the clutch cable, since the accelerator, and the brake are already there (brake is not cable operated). And I think you will need the manual transmission cross-member as well. At least they were different from manual / automatic on the EA81's, so there's a good chance. GD

No - they won't "fit", they are different. But you can probably get aftermarket ones that are adjustable. GD

He doesn't make a 4/4 lift, and the 4/3 is about $375 according to the last time I saw his web site. Don't quote me on that tho, as he could change his price anytime he wants I'm sure. GD

Dude - that totally sucks. I'm sorry. GD

Hey vovo boy - the bracket he is refering to doesn't exist on the automatics, and the 2WD's. You'll have to get one from a 4WD. Just drill the welds off, and it comes right out. That's what I did... GD

Yeah - that might be cool. On the power windows - you will probably need the power window stuff from a hatch.... I don't think I've ever seen a hatch with power windows. Not sure they even made them. Sedans, and Wagons I have seen... and I think a coupe too. There's a power window controller too (ECU), and a whole bunch of wiring and relays and stuff. Not sure about the 29th, but maybe the 4th GD