GeneralDisorder

Hey junkie... maybe YOU need my wagon... hehe GD

If you do dual exhaust - leave the cross-over, or you will lose HP. The cross-over helps to balance the airflow of the engine. GD

Looks like I might make it up there for Sat. YAY! Don't have a lift yet, but I'm sure it will still be cool. GD

Well - for one thing - if you don't already know, AC systems for EA81's are all R12 - which means your gonna need R12 to fill it back up ($$$$$$), or you can use the new stuff called Freeze-12, but it's also more expensive than R-134. Anyway - yeah, it takes a while to get that dash out. Maybe not 12 hours if you've done it before, but a while non the less. I wouldn't bother with AC - why do you want it anyway? EA81 AC compressors are crap, and the system will mostly likely leak to beat hell when your done with it. And unless you have a refrigerant recovery system, and all the tools to pull a proper 30 minute vacuum on the system to completely evac it, then your looking at a dead evaperator in a year or less due to moisture in the system, which will cause corrosion inside the evap, and eventually lead to holes in it. Which will require removal of the dash again..... etc, etc. Anyway - you only could use it maybe a month or two out of the year in the Pac. NW, so what's the use? I say forget it, and save the wieght. If your going to lift it and go off-road, then it's just more complexity that you don't need hanging around in there. Just my $.02 GD

well - for the price of a weber, you could come get my Turbo Wagon, and take all the bits you want, and have a nice little day trip besides! It's here: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3897 GD

The later model digidash's are supposed to be better - 87, I should think it might actually be the sensor. At least check anyway - it's easy to do. And replace that oil pump - heavier oil is good too, but to get rid of that click (and to keep from chewing your engine up), put in a new oil pump. Not that hard - and their about $60 or so. GD

Technically speaking, subaru's don't have just a transmission - it's actually the transmission, front diff, and 4WD transfer case, all in one unit. Power split is mechanically locked at 50/50 for all the manual D/R tranny's. What is this project? GD

I think the fuel pressure for the FI models is up there around 35 to 50 PSI or something like that. For carbs it's around 3.5 PSI. That's why the FI models have bigger stronger fuel lines. GD

Of course - as Cougar says - if everything is working properly, then the radiator will be pretty hot too. And if it is.... then your gauge is bad, or the sending units is bad. But if it isn't, then you should check out your thermostat. They go bad a lot, so check it first. It's really easy to do anyway. However - as I recall - Skip said he tested with NO thermostat to see if it would warm up slower, and he found that it took only about 45 seconds longer to heat up with no thermostat present. So it very well could be your gauge, or the sending unit. I personally have experienced the bad sending unit. My car had the feedback carb, and was able to tell me the problem, but I wouldn't have known otherwise. Also - the fan thermoswith is not the same as the sending unit. The sending unit is located in the intake manifold. There are procedures for testing it as well, but I let the ECU do it for me. Mine was bad, and so was another I got from the JY - ended up buying a new one for $15. Heat is your worst enemy - get it fixed soon! Oh - and I sugested blow torch cause I didn't want to be responsible for someone trying to test electrical parts around boiling water. Besides - it should work right? Might be a little hard to gauge the temp I guess - but hey - just drink a few brews first, and I'm sure you would figure something out GD

Just remember to follow the golden rule of thump - "Never play where you park". My buddy found this out the hard way with his 4 runner. He had 2 12" Audiobahn subs in the back, with 1500 watts driving them - all gone. GD

Adding a turbo motor is NOT as simple as grabbing the motor and the ECU - you need practically the entire donor car. The whole engine bay is different, the cross-member is different, the wireing harness for everything is different. Even the battery tray is on the other side of the car (has to be cut from the donor car, and welded in). It can and has been done though, so if you really want to do it, find a beat-up Turbo Wagon, and use it for a donor. If you do the turbo engine, then it will already have AC, but you will need the condensor and evaperator from the donor car as well - and all the parts under the passenger side dash that hold all that junk. GD

The radiator isn't where you need to test the temp. And I would do a test run with the fan disconnected completely. The thermostat is entirely mechanical, and should allow the engine to heat up if it's working properly. Test the easy stuff first - take the thermostat out, and put it in boiling water with a thermometer. If it's bad it will either be stuck open, or will not open at the specified temp. New ones are like $10 or so, so it would be an easy thing to test / replace. GD

Check the oil pressure with a real gauge - the dash gauges are notoriously inaccurate. And if there's no noise associated with 15 PSI, then it very well could be your gauge, as I think that would surely cause lifter chatter. Check the shift linkage for that hard shifting problem - could be binding. If it isn't, then it's probably just the first gear syncro going out. No big deal - many older trucks and such didn't even have a first gear syncro. You had to come to a complete stop to get it into first. GD

So - to clarify, your saying that the fan is still running constantly, and keeping the engine from warming up? If that's what you mean, then I would check out your themostat, since even if the fan ran all the time, if the thermostat were working properly, then the engine would still reach operating temp cause the fluid wouldn't flow into the rad till it opened. And as for the thermoswitch - you should test it - just heat it up (blowtorch maybe?) and see if you get continuity. I don't think there's much to that switch, so I don't see why they would be different.... GD

yes - they come jetted to your engine - it's a kit MADE for your engine by Weber. I don't personally think they are jetted perfect, but they will run, are driveable, and are better (in some ways) than the Hitachi. GD

Antifreeze smell generally indicates a blown head gasket. Is the smoke white? That's generally the color. Figure on doing a head gasket - and the heads likely could be cracked as well, so figure on replacing one or more of them. GD

Why not buy Weber's and rebuild them - get em off ebay, and set yourself up with the right tools (wouldn't cost much), and get a good supplier of the EA81 and EA82 adapters, jetting specs off the kits, and such. You wouldn't be out much money to do a couple up, and then since you have a couple extra engines lying about - set them up to run on a bench - one EA81 and one EA82. It seems to me that there are a LOT more people in need of Hitachi replacements than there are in need of engines. If you get a weber on ebay for say $50 (just saw one go for $46), and the adaptor plate for $30, and the rebuild kit, you could probably sell them for $200 or so, and make a decent profit. After you've done a few, you would probably get fast at it, and be able to build one up in an hour. Why not offer an EA81 SPFI kit? there's just TONS of SPFI cars in the JY, and if you could supply instructions, and the modified distributor, I'll bet I would buy one. GD

There was only one turbo Hatch built by Subaru - the one used in the movie Cannonball Run. All others are fakes. I believe corky said he is in the process of negotiating to buy it.... They can be faked VERY easy since the entire front end of a hatch is the same as the front end of a Turbo Wagon, and all parts will bolt right up. And on the EA81T - it was only mated to Auto's because it was a new technology, and Subaru could better control how the engine would be run in the hands of the consumer with the auto. They didn't want their name on something that turned out not to be able to handle the punishment of a clutch driven car. GD

That's nice - yours is the 84 blue color - same as my hood and drivers fender - mine is really supposed to be "marina blue" which is an 85 Brat color, that I don't think any other cars or models ever got. Maybe the 85 hatch? Anyway - it's a little different. I'll be having mine painted back to it's original color soon. You can see it's a bit lighter, and more metallic. But at least the blue wagons are plentiful, and I got a good hood, and drivers fender in the older blue color that don't look completely ghetto. I had a maroon hood on it for a while - I felt like trash driving it that way, so I got blue instead. How much did you have to put down to get that one? Looks like it's in good shape other than a little dirt. GD

First you have to host them somewhere - then you just click the "image" button when you are posting, and insert the URL to where they are hosted. Email me if you need more help than that. GD

cool - could we get some pics? I always like to see other Brats. Here's mine: GD

Weren' t you the one looking for a car a few days back? How the heck did you end up with a Brat so quickly? GD

Yeah - replace it soon - overvoltage can blow fuses, switches, sensors, and cause fires if wires overheat (although - your fuses are supposed to prevent that). GD

First - start the engine, and check the alternator output - the VR could have gone. And don't let her drive it - wireing like that is a fire hazard. I had to save somone from a burning car once - she's very lucky I was there, or she probably wouldn't have a dog anymore (was in the back in a car carrier). GD

I think EA82 2WD axles are indeed different than the 4WD ones. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken. Also - check this thread for axle removal / installation: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2576&highlight=axle+removal And try out the search feature next time as you may have run across this on your own, and saved yourself some time. GD