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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
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I mean - I'm not really seeing the downside here..... the 3AT's haven't had any parts support for a while. Trans shop came to us for an oil pump drive shaft and one of my guys had to dig through his scrap pile to find some that the splines were only half chewed off so they could put a Loyale back on the road for some elderly couple. This just means more manual swaps. GD
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No seat switches that I am aware of. Even the Legacy belts operate blindly without an occupant. I'm telling you - you are wasting your time. The diagnostics on these are intense and it's not going to get fixed. There's no parts available anymore. Just get manual belts. GD
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Always been that way. Mitsuboshi has multiple factories. All of them are "managed" by Japanese oversight. They have upper management Japanese on-site. Thailand and Malaysia are like Japan's Mexico. All those parts are fine I've installed thousands of them with zero failures. I have had two Gates belts come apart before 105k, and all of their kits have Chinese idlers and some weird tensioner made in Canada. I won't buy them for several years now. GD
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Hitachi Carb Issues
GeneralDisorder replied to Combaticu5's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I've done about 40-50 of these swaps. Directions are not required. Neither is a kit. Get the carb, adapter, and low profile air filter. On the EA82 you will want a 60 or 65 idle jet. Rip off everything that isn't the manifold itself. Throw it all away. Run a vac line to the distributor. Tune idle mixture and speed. GD -
Convert to manual belts. The auto belts are a pain in the a$$. GD
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Hitachi Carb Issues
GeneralDisorder replied to Combaticu5's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Carb is clapped out. Get a Weber. Understanding it isn't require. It's a carb - it works on venturi's, pressure differential, emulsion tubes, and jets (orifices) just like all the others. It's clapped out and no amount of futzing with it will magically turn it into a Weber. Don't waste your time. GD -
No one makes anything for that car. You can't even get timing components anymore to perform regular maintenance. The engine wouldn't handle a turbocharger in any case - too fragile. Also can't be tuned, compression is too high, etc, etc. Those cars are not really daily driveable even at this point. You can't get any parts to maintain them unless you buy up a fleet of parts cars. Best thing to do is swap the drivetrain with a WRX. But that costs a lot of money and is entirely custom. There's no kit for that either. GD
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If you like an oily, messy engine that smokes off the exhaust manifold, stinks, etc then go right ahead. No one is stopping you. It's not a matter of oil leakage - the leaks never amount to enough to have to add. If you are adding it's either the PCV valve or the rings. It is NOT the HG's. Fixing them will not result in ANY change the level of consumption. Once you look at the cost of doing the FULL 105k with all timing components, valve lash, etc - it's only about $1k more to do the HG's at the same time. If you use the 642/770 you won't have a recurring failure. If you use the old 633 gasket then you are absolutely right - don't bother. GD
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1977 wagon, basic mods?
GeneralDisorder replied to musubk's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
EA81 will not bolt up to the transmission, and will hit the steering shaft unless you use the cradle from an 81 Brat GL. If you use the 86 4 speed then you may be able to modify the cradle or something to fit them with the stock steering setup. I've never tried it. GD -
EA82 DR 5MT front seal renew
GeneralDisorder replied to jono's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Have to split the case on all of them. EA81 included. -
Legacy L's already have them. If it's a GT or Outback, then no, the replacement is a Phase I. Also the Phase II EJ222 is not the excellent engine the Phase I was. They have a tendency toward oil consumption and rings are dealer only and very expensive. You may as well just use a Phase II 2.5 as they were essentially the same with 20 more HP. GD
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You can't re-torque them. The final value for the bolts is not a torque value - it's a degree value. So how are you going to check this? The dealer uses the wrong gaskets on these engines. They should be using the 642 or 770 gasket. Expect failure again within about 40k miles. Nothing you can do about it. GD
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85 brat. Need advice from a expert.
GeneralDisorder replied to Thudspudnic's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
If you can't afford gaskets for the carb then I highly suggest you sell the broken Durango, sell the Brat (they fetch a good price when the body is nice) and buy an older Corolla/Geo Prizm. Old Subaru's are difficult and hard to get parts for. Carb anything is tough these days especially old Japanese Hitachi carbs. They are fairly complex and I don't recommend rebuilding by the uninitiated - let alone without any parts on hand. That is sure to leave you worse off than you are now. GD -
85 brat. Need advice from a expert.
GeneralDisorder replied to Thudspudnic's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Throw the carb in the dumpster. You need a Weber 32/36 DGV, adaptor plate, and short filter. Have the distributor rebuilt with new bushings and a new vacuum advance. Rip off all the vacuum plumbing - you only need two vac lines. Distributor Advance and EGR. GD -
Ultra-Grey will probably work just fine. I use the Three-Bond because I am rebuilding engines and when putting the case halves together, etc I want to use the sealant specifically rated by Subaru for that purpose. Due to shear strength, and oil passage proximity, etc. When I worked industrial machinery we had an exclusive North American distribution for Kobelco rotary screw compressors from Japan and were required to use a specific type of three-bond on all oil fittings as it was designed to not clog small passages. Every since I saw the results of using non-approved sealants near oil passages I don't mess around with that anymore. The oil pan isn't near any oil feed passages so I wouldn't worry about using a Permatex, etc. I know some of the Permatex products are approved substitutes by SOA but I haven't got any of the docs handy on that and it really doesn't come up for us since we just buy the Japanese sealant. GD
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Use them frequently to check fan and fuel pump relays, etc. VERY useful. All manufacturers should include this feature. If more people were somewhat electrically savvy they would be able to diagnose on the side of the road. And they would know better than the try to fix it when it's not broken. Can't tell you how many times I've seen people plug those in just because "it doesn't look right disconnected". Keep your grubby little hands off the inner workings of your vehicle if you don't know what you are doing! GD