GeneralDisorder

That's ridiculous - must be something in the water out on the east coast. People here are glad to help - we buy it by the case (6 tubes). It's about $110 for a case from Nissan. It's also sold all over the net. GD

Those are test mode/flash mode connectors. If you connect them the ECU will go into diagnostic mode and start cycling relays for diagnostics, etc. GD

Is the vacuum signal to the fuel pressure regulator consistent? If you have uneven vacuum it may translate to uneven fuel pressure. If so you should pinch off the return line. If you don't get a solid 50 psi then I would swap in a different pump. Easy enough to do for testing. GD

The Three-Bond 1217H is what we use. Nissan has it cheapest. The blue o-rings they sold you for the oil pump are likely something the dealer has sourced in bulk from outside of the Subaru parts channels. They will work fine I'm sure. But the proper case half/oil pump o-ring is Buna-N with a flange on the ID. GD

Needs tranny mounts. The EA81 mounts suck and are small. They are likely ripped in half.

It is the difference between 73 and 74 HP.

They are dealer only. You get them from Subaru. GD

Viton is brown. Buna-N (Nitrile) is black. Blue/Orange would be silicone. GD

You can get the cam support / distributor cover o-rings in Viton if you buy them from McMaster. That's what I used to do. The cam seals you can get from Subaru and they are superseded to the Viton one's anyway. GD

83-on all have large valves. Regardless of lifter type. 82 and older all have small valves and solid lifters. GD

You don't need a "kit". All you need is the bare carb (jetting is the same), adapter, and short filter. That's your kit. Add those three items to your cart and you have a kit. GD

Gloyale is at least partially correct. The 84 PS setup doesn't use a rag joint. Neither does the EA81T.... 83 should be the same I would think.... 82 might. I'm not sure. There are some differences. Regardless the OP said he does have a rag joint so..... Sounds like if it's not the rag or the coupler that the rack is bad or the problem is higher up in the column like the u-joint for the tilt.... IDK. Sounds like its pretty messed up. Never had one of these do that to me. GD

He can't. The venturi sizes aren't large enough to get the low-end torque that a Weber can achieve. Even the EA82 Hitachi is only a 28/32. The Weber is a 32/36. You just can't get the airflow as quickly with the Hitachi. Jetting the Hitachi is a pain in the neck. GD

They should be fine. I have never seen a failure mode like that. GD

I figured you had an external leak. You should be good now. Drive it a while and check for coolant level regularly. GD

Dealer only if you want it to last. Yes the cat is bad after that much misfireing abuse. The Check Engine flashing means pull over and don't drive it. That's not the problem though - just a result of the problem. You made it worse and killed the cat by driving it like that. You have a misfire condition - unburned fuel is going straight out the exhaust and being ignited in the cat. GD

Probably the steering column u-joint/rag joint. Get a urethane one for a VW beetle. Direct replacement. GD

Sure - you can do it. But it's the sensors that are getting really difficult. Idle control valves are troublesome, MAF sensors can and do fail. All these electronics are obsolete and the only source is used. I wrote the manual on this conversion (I have it in PDF if anyone wants it), and honestly I wouldn't do it. The results were not that spectacular - the Weber feels more sporty - and it's complicated and hard to get parts for. All this so you can have ancient fuel injection? Once the shine and novelty of it wears off - it's just a lot of work and complexity for extremely little gain (I guess maybe it has better cold start manners), and lower performance. That doesn't seem like a good use of my time. As a learning experience it was valuable, but you have to remember I did this 15-20 years ago and it wasn't such old junk back then. Lots more of them on the road and in the yards, and the tech wasn't so outdated. GD

Yes but it costs more and you don't need some of what it comes with. The filter is too tall, etc. You can modify the existing throttle cable bracket and use the throttle wheel on the Hitachi easily. So really you may as well buy the carb, adaptor, and short filter separately and save a few bucks. GD

You mean the surface roughness? Has to do with the type of surfacing equipment used. The fire ring groove is usually the most important part of the surfacing operation. We just surface till the fire ring has been removed. In some rare cases I have seen fire ring grooving of the block deck. I have successfully filled the block grooves with JB weld or similar, block sanded it, and had good results. Surface flatness, preparation, and cleanliness is extremely important. I check heads with a machinist rule and an RA meter. GD

Yes cooling system pressure tester. And cold is preferable for the test. GD

There is no kit for SPFI. You have to make it yourself. I don't suggest it. The parts are getting scarce and the Weber gives better low end torque anyway. Don't buy a kit. It doesn't have what you need. Get the carb, the adaptor, and the short filter unless you are lifted. Thats all you need. GD

Do a pressure test. Did you resurface the heads? Check the block surface for pitting? Were the block bolt threads chased and the bolts lubricated and assembled with NO creaking? GD

Happens all the time - because Americans want cheap parts. Funny how we never have to do that on Japanese parts. Thing is - it was probably just paint in the holes. And if you can't handle chasing some threads you probably shouldn't be doing your own repairs. Still not a sign of quality though. I've gone almost exclusively to having the older brass/copper radiators repaired or re-cored. Heater cores too. If you have an original quality part like that it will pay in the long run to have it repaired. Also keeps your money local and pays a real craftsman for a valuable skill. GD

It is done quite often with Amsoil fleet's. They use 1 micron bypass filtration - it even removes the carbon so the oil doesn't turn black. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/filters-and-mounts/universal-single-remote-bypass-system/?code=BMK21-EA And yes they have large sump capacities, and HUGE filters. When you change the filters and do the top off you are adding several gallons of oil (and therefore additives) back into the system. This is what allows the extreme change intervals. Most of them also do oil analysis to back it up with actual data. In the Army we didn't change oil unless the analysis said to do so. The Army runs it's own Army Oil Analysis Program (AOAP) for just this purpose. You are right that this isn't usually feasible in gas engines due to gasoline contamination. Diesel fuel isn't as problematic in this respect having a high lubricity itself. GD