GeneralDisorder

My guess is someone did the HG's in the past and there is cam journal damage from oil contamination. We shall see once you get the head and can post pictures. $2200 is extremely cheap for a head replacement - the dealers here are charging that much just for a HG job and that doesn't include timing. So to do the HG and actually replace the entire cylinder head for that price seems ridiculously cheap. That head with it's camshaft, and whatever other bits they need would be upwards of $1000 by itself. At dealer rates it doesn't seem possible even. At any rate the dealer isn't doing the job correctly. They obviously aren't doing timing and chances are that engine still has the factory water pump installed. Should have all that replaced along with a new radiator, hoses, etc. Not to mention the HG on the other side. Dealers..... they drive SOOOOOOO much business to me. It's disturbing and profitable. I can't complain. GD

Kartboy makes them. Just refer to their web site for a part number. GD

Don't touch the steering rack. Although it probably is going to need a new pinion/valve assembly sooner or later. They leak like a horse traders mule. GD

Front lower control arm bushings. These are always shot by 75k. Replace with poly. GD

Right on! Glad that worked for you. We go straight to that valve for track cars rather than the air/oil separators that people always want to use. GD

There were EA81 GL-10's that didn't have a turbo as well. It was just a trim package and what came in/on the car for that trim package changed yearly if not more often. GD

We build turbo engines all the time with the Killer-B motorsports pan and it does not seal in that location: http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/oiling-products/oil-pans/high-performance-oil-pan-ej-series.html Moroso builds their pan the same way: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/oil-pans/mor-20966-moroso-steel-oil-pan We don't experience any oil consumption due to the lack of a seal for the oil return port. The aftermarket stock style pan (likely made by Dorman) does have the seal just like the factory pan. GD

Perhaps. We don't really experience this problem much. I've seen it a couple times but it's rare here. GD

Yes those are correct

parts.subaru.com It probably is discontinued. Best bet is a good used trans. They are pretty cheap. GD

You said it yourself. The axles aren't broken. You need boots, grease, and clamps from the dealer. The BOOTS are leaking. The axles are not broken. GD

Assumptions are the natural result of a lack of specificity. I wasn't party to the conversations that apparently both concluded in the ASSumption on your part that he understood you would call back, and the ASSumption on his part that you likely wouldn't. I'm neither the first, nor the last to assume anything here. Finger pointing aside, I'm not the apologetic type. The facts and the actions speak for themselves. Consider the chain of assumptions and whom was trying to help whom here. I'm last on that last and also have no skin in the game either way. If my help is not appreciated - lots of luck gentlemen. GD

It sounded like you were looking to get the part number and length to take that information elsewhere. That's what he and I both assumed. You should make it clear that you WILL call back to place the order. For future reference they can make an order quote under your name so you don't need any part numbers. This is so you can order multiple items and they don't have to look it up twice (which is extremely time consuming on older cars due to cataloging). Also the length really isn't important. He will get you the right part. Whether it matches the length of the old one or not is inconsequential - it will be the right part. Sometimes part numbers get superseded and dimensions change. GD

Sorry. Not you. The OP called him today and wasted his time asking questions about length, etc. Obviously trying to get part numbers and match up some aftermarket junk to save a buck. Had to call back a second time to confirm the part number. Seriously he's a VERY busy guy. Works at least in part on commission. I buy TENS OF THOUSANDS of $ from his department. I asked him for a favor to help the OP. We aren't doing this for fun ya know. GD

Seriously though - I don't appreciate my recommendation to call my parts guy at the dealer being used to get part numbers and lengths in order to try to order some aftermarket crap that WILL NOT WORK. Just call Matt and order the flippin cable for $35!! You have got to be kidding me - that's soooo cheap. GD

Gates has gone way downhill. They are now just as bad as all the other Chinese junk. Haven't used a Gates kit in about 3 years. They promised to fix the problems. Never did. They are on my never buy again list. And I buy a LOT of timing kits. Like 3-5 a week. GD

Amsoil heavy duty metal protector. You just spray it in there. It's a dry wax lubricant and body undercoat. GD

Might be the exhaust hitting something. New mounts are never a bad thing on a car that old. They can often be found really cheap on Rockauto, etc. GD

I don't know what car you need one for.... You too can be a part number expert courtesy of Subaru of America: Behold! parts.subaru.com GD

High likelyhood of fan motor failure. Happens about that many miles on that platform. GD

At about 200k they weep oil but not just from the HG's - also from inner and outer timing chain covers, etc. So the answer is essentially yes - but worse. Not worth fixing though as the cost is extremely high. Most people just live with it till end of life at 300k or so. They are a much more disposable platform than the 4 cylinder since they generally become economically non-feasible due to labor costs to repair them. GD

Pull history codes. Otherwise its just guessing. GD

Need to check your water pump. Some of those Foresters have a weird front facing nipple for the oil cooler. We generally just delete the oil coolers and opt for synthetic oil instead. Even the 08+ WRX's came without oil coolers stock so it seems like overkill for an NA forester. They also leak and the hoses go soft from oil contamination. You can use that kit if you dont have the nipple or if you delete the associated cooler. GD

Just get the bracket for the tensioner you bought. Easy. GD

Just the year, model, and transmission type. Matt knows the older cars. He owns an 83 and an 84. I trained him. GD