BestCar/OnlyCar

In hindsight I also would go with a used engine or an upgrade to a 2.5. For one thing I had a perfectly good engine in it, and if it is going to make this valve sounding ticking with all the work then why spend all the money? Also, it just makes sense to get the newer model, more horses etc.

I really like the people at CCR. Rick is nice, and Jason is nice. They have been very kind to me. I don't know a whole lot about cars, but they are always willing to answer my questions and help me learn more. I had them re-manufacture an E82 for my 1988 Subaru. Ever since I had the engine put in (and they did the swap labor as well, I figured it was good to work with one set of people instead of the confusion of two garages since I am near-ish them anyway) it has had this tick/knock intermittently. Sometimes loud, and sometimes quiet. I did notice that one of the bolts on the valve cover gasket had the wrong seal and was leaking oil. Because I happened to have a new one that was right I swapped it out. I don't know if this was contributing to the sound. In any case though this is frustrating they have been very gracious about trying to resolve the problem. Initially I went in and they looked at the head and could not see the problem. Because it only does it the first few miles when it is cold it is not making the noise when arrive at the shop. Because it is my daily driver it took a while before I could leave it with them. They were patient and gracious working with my schedule and it is now at the shop....of course it doesn't want to make the damn noise for them. I do not know if this is because I changed out that bolt seal, or if it is because I live in the mountains where it is colder and a different climate than the shop is (it does it much more pronounced in cold weather). Or perhaps it is just to make my life more difficult. So far at the shop it only made a tiny and very fast resolving tick. *sigh*. I don't know. I am frustrated, but at the same time, they have never even heard the noise, (I did tape it for them), but they believe me, and are trying to resolve the problem.

Yes, I was looking for this video before, but with this title it always pulls up a mislabeled miles fox vid of a parkinglot meeting. What I want to know is -you know how on the roter there is bolted on a plate...maybe called the hub?...held on by four bolts, and through it go the lug nut studs. Why can't a person swap that out for one made with a five lug nut pattern instead of having to switch out a lot of parts to change over to five lug nut?

Wagonist Thanks for the valuable info. Where would one find where to buy a real and complete kit? I have already bought some pipe and two washers and longer but maybe I will switch it out for some larger stuff and try this system...

Gloyale: thanks.

PRWA 101. I will check McGuire bearings out! Gloyal: "4 lug EA wheel bearings are WAAAY easier than 5 lug. I can do them in 1/2 hour with a big punch and a hammer. Installing the axle takes one more hammer." I am thinking changing the axles will be easier...not necessarily the wheel bearings. but just for the sake of interest, do you take it all apart and press your wheel bearings in, or do you just use a big socket or something to hit against and pound them in? If you just pound them in how do you get the seal on the inside to go in and seat all the way? I wanted to use a flathead screwdriver and gently hammer mine in but I was afraid to and just put them on the new CVs and let them get pulled in, but now they are squeeling and I am going to have to sort it out again.

I should go five lug. The four lugs are a pain.

I put my wheel bearings in the freezer to try to get them to go on the axle because I am an Idiot and I thought that would make them contract and the hole in the middle bigger. It did not work. However, I did put them in a plastic bag in the freezer. thus keeping the freezer clean, and they are easier to handle with the grease cold and stiff it stays packed and does not get all over.

Maybe I will try that next time. It sounds like a good way to do it.

P.S. the reason I think it is making a funny noise is the lower ball joint. I ordered two and am going to put new ones in. The old ones are so stuck on the lower control arm I will have to cut and drill them off or get some other lower control arms from the junk yard I think. I did not try that fork shaped thing to get them off, but I did try a car jack and it did not have enough force. ..I dont think it helped them any though! (fix one thing, break something else. Thats my M.O.)

Gloyal I bought one new wheel bearing and the new wheel bearing would go on the new axle without forcing it when they were out of the vehicle. I had to put WD40 on and gently wiggle it and line it up just right so I think that it is okay (not junk axle and bearings) if it slides on when you get it lined up and gently work it? Interesting about the special tool for a slide hammer (whatever that is). I used a tool to push them out from the front, and my book tells of using a tool to put them in, but the guys at the subaru dealer parts department, as well as at O o o oreillys cheap auto parts both said they had never heard of using a tool to put them it. I will look into it for next time. It would have been nice. When I pushed them out one wheel bearing and the inside seal came off so I replaced them. I just put them on the new axle and pulled them in by tightening the castle nut to pull them through. This may be a bad Idea, but it was the best Idea I had at the time. I hope it does not have bad results later... Here is another question for you : What is up with slip yoke eliminator custom CV shafts? Is that something one could use on an EA82? Though I have dropped my engine and transmission, ultimately if it exists I would like to have custom axles that make the engine transmission drop unnecessary..do you know anything about these?

AK ghandi: Wish you were here. need to prob take mine off again because one side is making a funny noise, and I am really dreading it. Really the only problem is that I did not lower the radius arm with my transmission and engine so there is so much tension on it it takes two people to wrestle it back on. (yes, I know the obvious answer to that it lower the radius arm. nooo. I just want to drive the car for 15 minutes without having to work on the damn thing!)

Hi, I just put two new CV joints into my 1988 GL. Now it is making loud clunking type noises. (not when I turn, just occasionally when driving) My question is this: I put new seals on the inside. When I put them on I just used the new CV axles to pull them into place. It seemed to me they did not go in as far as the old ones did (which were snug against the wheel bearings). If I did not get my seals in far enough would that cause a noise or? Anyone know anything about this? They were a pain to change and it is so lame now that it is not all wonderful... Thanks, Patty

PRWA101: yeah, like the guy in that link you shared my inner seals were all melted on, but a screwdriver, hammer, vicegrips, and a little time was effective.

Bird Mobile: Thanks. Yeah, too much struggling down in the dirt over a couple days to keep my roters entirely clean. I plan to use break cleaner and clean them as good as I can before I put the wheels back on in a few minutes....