bertmann73

hello soobs. Been a while. Finally got the 79 back on the road, or off road should i say. while lifting it up years ago, i was widening the wheel wels and welding when i got spark inside and torched the dash. Made a custom dash with guages. she then sat a few years and some of the guages got roached. Making new cluster and now got some wiring issues. Does anyone have a closeup of the cluster wiring diagram. found only one while surfing the web but cant make out the color codes. Cheers.

Hello all. been a while but its time to replace my daghters 04 wrx front axles. I could not find them on subaru websiteand orielys list around 20 of them with different length and compressed length. I need help finding the right ones. I am looking for a quality brand that wont break the bank. Any suggestions or part numbers? Thanks so much

yeah i saw it.. just had to get back in the rythm after fighting my timing issues. thanks for the info. im sure its a donor trans put in by someone who did not know about different gear ratios. kinda sucks because the trans is actually in great shape when in 2wd. complete with shiny blue new t/c installed. gonna be time to get back to work this weekend. it was too cold last couple of months to poke around outside............yes it gets cold in vegas......at least for this Arizona-raised guy. i dont know how some of you do it in your sub freezing climates....power to ya!!

all tires are the same but does look like trans was rebuilt or swapped. on close inspection it has been painted with silver metallic. Most likely it was swapped out with a cleaned up and painted trans. the torque converter looks new tho. You may be right. i was thinking it could also be loose differential gears on both axles along with old rear cv axles. just having a hot mess of play in the rear end might cause it but your reply makes more sense. how many gear setups were available in this trans? gonna just do the swap of the trans and rear diff. only grey area is separating the torque converter from engine. not much room in there

before i condemn the transmission i wanted to post the symptoms and verify. the 4wd fuse was in keeping it in 2wd. i pulled it and the trans was acting like it wanted to rattle apart. both rear control arm supports were roached so i replaced them first. then the transmission mounts were gone too so they were replaced. then i pulled the 4wd fuse and it ran fine for about 5 minutes. the transmission then began to shake and give power jolts to the front right wheel almost as if the brakes were bieng applied. i put the fuse back and it runs and shifts like an old tranny should but with a little vibration. the rear end makes a lot of noise so i will be swapping that too. funny how i have a wrecked 94 that ran like a dream but looked hideous and a 92 that has no cosmetic flaws but feels like bo and luke duke had a go at the drive train. just want to hear some possible causes before i go and switch trans and diff.

I used the starter from my 4mt dr on m y 5mt dr. used ea81 head washers as shim. they work perfectly. also converted dash top ashtray to miniguage cluster on the 78 brat. turn the three gauge mount upside down and tack it on to the ashtray metal frame. same size!! then cover with your choice of sheet metal. I also welded a nut on the back of the trans mission shift shaft driver. i replaced so many pins and the hole always gets worn out. now i just tighten a 12mm bolt with a lock nut that pushes against the shaft. it has not had any play since. the brat can run in low range when not in 4wd by unattaching the linkage and using a cable set up to shift from low to high (towing on pavement purpose) rear defrost is totally gone on the wagon. never waste a switch.......rear cargo light installed using exhisting wiring

sounds like hydro lifters to me too. valve lash should increase as cam and push rods wear i have not seen a hydro ea81 yet but have torn down and adjusted plenty of chevy v-8s in my day. to adjust hydros we used to tigten the rocker down until the play was gone on the push rod. then back the rocker off an eighth turn

ej22 all the way.I have grown very fond of that little die hard engine. i plan on converting the 79 pretty soon. may even swap in the legacy suspension too.

yes a mount could be the problem too. the transmission will push down upon acceleration and will pull up in reverse or deceleration. i have that problem on my 92 legacy right now. just waiting for part to arrive.

also check and see if they tapped the center nut into the locking groove on the shaft to keep it from working loose.

did you check the lug nuts?

I like to add a half bottle of trans x before a change and drive it bout 50 miles. i dont use the whole bottle because it has ether in it to revitalize the seals. if they over swell they can fail so only half bottle then fluid change. also if the trans pan has been bumped or bottomed out you may have a dent in it causing restriction to filter inlet. this happened on my 97 impreza. i fixed the pan and changed the fluid and problems went away

agreed. 2.2 is a great engine with decent power. the imprezas that came with the 2.2 are the best looking model in my opinion the driving experience of a Subaru is unparalleled. i too would love a turbo, but dont have the finance or time to get married to one. the 2.2 gives me alot of pleasure and is very reliable.....cheap fuel also keeps me happy

nicely said. i have been in the market for a turbo forester automatic. a bit pricey, but that would be my next purchase indeed. there are legacy turbos also and they are often priced less than the wrx or sti. and like panhead states...its all in your driving habits. my daughter fills up her wrx once for 2 weeks. when i drive it............never mind. I stick with subarus for the simple fact that they are easy to work on, all wheel drive and the fact that i now can not live without the rumble of a boxer engine!!

if you have no flow in the radiator when hot that would be the thermostat. sounds like its starting to open late due to deformed spring

Thanks to all who replied. I just finished the front u-joint. it went in exactly as described. thanks for the detailed description. i took the grinder and delicately cut the joint out. i then popped all the caps out with a 16mm socket which i found went through snugly snapping the stakes off as it wnt through. i then scored the socket with the grinder making a perfect honing tool to grind them smooth using the socket adaptor on my drill. as i removed the joint i noticed that they are in fact hollow and caps can be drilled to install zerk fittings I will be adding a zerk fitting to the middle joint as it seems to still be in good shape if anyone wants to attempt this i would advise that it be done from the bottom and with plenty of wd40 or honing oil to avoid any shards getting in the joint. use a center punch on the selected cap and the right size bit for the zerk fitting( dont know yet the size) then use a threading tap with lots of oil so the shards run down and away. these shafts are costly so this is a good low cost mod to the shaft to avoid the bearings drying out.

went to site but wanted they wanted 13 for shipping. did e-bay search and found them for 22. ordered one for now to replace front. if all goes well i will order the other 2. Thanks again

Thanks. Thats what i needed to hear. i now have a vision of how to do it. for 20 bucks each i will grind and do it myself. cheapest shaft i could find is 425 new. i will not spend money on a used drive shaft unless it is serviceable. i will not pay that much for a new shaft on an old car got work to do Thanks very much.

anyhoo.................i ended up swapping out the wiring harness from the 94 to no avail... the one from the 92 was spliced and compromised anyway... so why not? still same issue... I narrowed it down to cylinders 1 and 3 flooding. the coil pack will not fire any of the plugs when more than one is fouled i verified this by getting 2 and 4 to run while grounding out plugs 1 and 3 on the intake. it would run on 2 cylinders lol !!. as soon as i removed the plugs from ground or inserted them into the flooded cylinders the engine would die. so i thought it was bad injectors..once again to no avail after swapping and cleaning injectors and fuel rails.. i was ready to condemn the engine as a camshaft or valve problem. I started to pull the engine to swap in the 94 but decided to check the timing again...(which i was sure not the problem).....there it was!!!! the belt was slipping and causing cylinders 1 and three to flood instead of burning the fuel. My first diagnosis was correct... it was a timing issue... i started pulling the belt ready to throw the tensioner rod across the galaxy upon removal.... but found the cogged idler pulley was seized. Summary: (for those who love reading) PROBLEM 1: The cogged pully had an intermittent bearing failure. This caused me to replace the timing belt and examine the pulleys which seemed to be fine by my wallet's standards. PROBLEM 2: The exhaust was damaged with a busted and clogged catalyst causing the exaust to pressurize and not allow the engine to run. This i dubbed as the problem and she started up and ran fine for a couple of days and then back to the same. PROBLEM 3: the wiring harness had problems from a botched alarm install causing the ignition to lose power at times as well as the starter thinking it was shorting out the ignition intermittently,I then went mid-evil on the harness and swapped it out. Dose of the ol' Trifecta Car runs great now but getting all the loose ends tied up.

thanks for the replies. I ended up finding out the hard way. and yes...big difference between a cv axle and a drive shaft I pulled the drive shaft from the 94 that day in the rain and on the gravel only to find a non serviceable drive-shaft. its not in the best of condition and wish i could grease it......but better than the one on the 92 which was metal to metal. I took it to a drive line shop and they would not touch it. Has anyone attempted to drill and install zerk fittings? I dont know if the u joints have hollow centers. i have the old drive-shaft.. maybe ill use it as a guinea pig to see if i can grease it.

IS THE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT U-JOINT REMOVABLE. IF SO DOES ANYONE HAVE A PART LISTING?

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/5361647537.html wish i had the time...thought i would share.

can anyone tell me which wire should have 12 v at the the ecu to be able to run the engine?

update. so i went to start up the 92 the other day. it fired up then died after 3 seconds and began its tantrum all over again. i was getting irradical plug firing order again. i focused my attention on a wiring modification made under the steering column that seemed to be the remenances of a remote start /alarm install harness without the part that it plugged into. i removed the harness and re-attached the starter solenoid wire that was spliced and sent to a relay. i did not see any other splices so i tried firing up. no spark at all now. i looked for the ignition fuse and it had no fuse in place and no power to the fuse slot either when the ignition was in the on position. now i must remove the dash board and examine every wire to try to find where the ignition wire was spliced. At this point i am most likely going to swap the wiring harness out of the 94 as long as it is compatible as i hav researched and found there is a three and two engine plug setup.

I have been researching these bushings on line because the ones on the subaru website only come up as the front control arm bushings. so my question is, Has anyone researched what bushings are interchangeable on other models and where to find them least expensive. i have a 92 and a 94 legacy that look identical but the parts are labeled 90-93 and 94- 03 i think. was the original model produced along with the new model in 94? also, are they really left and right or can they be installed on either side?