bertmann73

Just picked up a 94 legacy that has bas front end damage for 300 bucks. the engine starts and sounds great. gonna replace front and rear seals along with cam and valve covers. I am going to start pulling apart the harness and chucking all that is not needed. I am keeping all under the hood including AC parts cuz it sure is hot in my wagon out here. I almost want to fix and drive it but i must stick to my guns on the real project. Lots of body and interior parts if anyone interested. front end is toast. color is an emerald green metallic. i know that subarus here in vegas are never found in scrap yards as they are all still being driven so for some this is a chance to get some stuff. if interested we will work out details on PMs i have a friend with another ej22 for parts. i want to get the clutch assembly from it and mate with my 5mt dual range. I plan on re-building that engine. i was wondering with all the different bearings and claims of being the best. which bearings should i look for on the ej22. I plan on using this car as my daily and off road uses so i want to get a nice set but not pay a lefty for them.

does anyone have part numbers for the front seal and shift shaft seals on this trans?

SHES FINALLY HERE!! got it this morning. looking at the differences so far it seems like i need to lengthen the drive shaft and find a 24 spline clutch kit. the old shift assembly from the 79 wagon seems like it will work with a few cuts and welds to modify it. donor was an 85 wagon 5speed dual range.

been findin a few imprezas ans legacies with ej22 5speed..might get me a donor car and and upgrade to something more modern...there was a 96 legacy on CL with 5spd for 600. i was gonna get it but i was a day late ..........now a dollar short too.

thats what i was thinking....right now i have the ea81 axles with the deep cups i switched from another trans. i extended one about 3/4 inch by chopping off the tapered end of a donor cup and welding it to the end of another cup..i simply placed it on the a removed diff. then used the seal cover groove as a valley to fill with weld..holding up very strong so far. i have no choice but to find my 5m,t d/r online as we have no source of soob trannys out here. i will have to open the case and inspect it before i install to check for wear. nothing i havn't done before.

difference in axle splines? that i did not know..thanks for the heads up

yeah that was always considered a bit unfair we dont have the luxury of a newer selection of dual range trannys to pick from..instead we must wish upon a star to find an ea82 tranny in descent shape.

there are 2 wires on the positive battery terminal. one goes directly to the starter and the other to the electical system....just maybe...the starter may be getting initial full contact and then arching to the smaller wire on the second try from a loose or dirty contact......all i can think of....weird indeed

problem was a cracked hose under mass air flow. thanks for all the replies and support. i will tell my mother that the team at usmb helped out in getting this sweet ride to her in such great condition. just gonna fix the rear cam cap seal tomorrow and she will be on her way.

thanks for the reply...found it....hose under mass airflow had a crack.....now to get her detailed and deliver to mom tomorrow.....I will miss this car a lot but mom needs a dependable car i will still get to drive it once in a while when i go down to az to maintain it

great. that seal is now the least of my worries as i now have a low idle problem that has occurred after cleaning the engine and replacing the front seal and valve cover gaskets. it seems like a throttle position sensor but i already replaced that when i bought the car. i checked all the vaccum hoses, clreaned the air intake sensor and still cant figure it out. went to the store to test drive and check for leaks and it had a minute where it wanted to stall at the red light. i thought maybe something got wet. went to school (30 miles) and when i got off the freeway it started to act strange. i would have to floor it to take off and the power would surge. it will not accelerate normally..only if i depress the accelerator at least halfway. I posted it but awaiting a response. been looking at the knock sensor posts and wondering if that may be the problem. i checked it and its not positioned at a 45 degree angle as it states in the post.

Ok thanks. Just wanted to be absolutely sure before I get my ham-hands in that tiny area. I a m glad you answered this question ☺️. It does not have the retaining bracket as the passenger side does and I see bolt holes. Is there supposed to be one on both sides?

i was getting ready to bring the 97 Impreza sport to my mother and it suddenly has a hesitation problem at lo idle. I would ble the throttle position sensor but I replaced it 2 years ago. I checked for vacuum leaks. Are there any other known problems with low idle hesitation. I get nothing until I press the accelerator down halfway and then the power launches in. .... How I love the old days of carbs and distributors. Any tips are appreciated. Thanks

And now the driver side cam cap...how does that come off? is it threaded or does it pop out?

what an adventure. third time and removed oil pump this time and found a nick on the crankshaft courtesy of the knucklehead who worked on it before me. it leaked when i got it for my kid and i just replaced the oil pump seeing as it was right in front of me...why not? i replaced the cam seals and called it a day. i noticed shortly after it was still leaking. i was gonna get around to it eventually but now that i was giving the car to my mother in Arizona, i couldn't leave it that way. no wonder it would not seal. i thought i had pinched it or folded it when i put it in but after 3 tries???............c'mon now, i know i'm better than that. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1397440850576377&set=a.1384763815177414.1073741827.100009314259795&type=1&theater . had to polish it the best i could with some 800 grit and seems to be holding now...il know when i drive it to school tomorrow across the city.

nice..i have a single range 4spd skeleton in the garage.found it from a guy on craigslist who said he saw it sitting in the scrap yard and snatched it up. it had the same dimensions as the dual range and looks identical except fore the d/r assembly and linkage but geared lower. i actually transplanted the gear assembly from thne single range into my dual range and it now has a slightly lower gear ratio which is great for compensating for the 26'' grabbers. only problem is no 5th gear. we need a pic of the dr and single range 5spd together. hope someone has one here

so it seems the 4sp and 5spd d/r look alike except for the extra gear. i could not see the other side. so the push button was not dual range? i think the one i saw on the internet had some sort of electronic solinoid where the D/R selector was positioned on the older 4speed D/R

yeah...been there done that...did you have any luck? we got the wrx a few days later and she was still smoking. when we brought it back they took me to the garage and put her on the lift to see that it was just residual leftover from the repairs and the check engine light had come on. they ran the diagnostic and it was a sensor that must have gotten wet . they cleaned it up and cleared the code......all good and nice service from the shop.

What tell tale signs do i need to look for as i am searching the web and junk yards for a 5 speed dual range. i see a couple on the internet and see where there is wiring to a solinoid where the dual range selector is but the ad does not state 4spd or 5spd. i want to avoid getting a 4spd. my question is if the 4spd was available with an electronic range selector. doed anyone have pics of the 5spd dual? thanks.

i finally gave up on buying cables and made my own from old stuff in the garage. it snaps every 6 months or so and i go another inch until i dont have any cable left. then i find another

I agree....most likely a battery contact. the ring around the battery terminal will expand in heat and contract in cooler temperatures giving it contact when cool and open circuit when hot. if not, other possibilities: coil pack could be going bad too. when they get hot they stop working. they are located on top of the engine and will absorb the heat transferred up from the intake manifold and right under the hood. if the vehicle is a dark color this adds to the heat absorption.other things to check would be the fuel delivery system and make sure all is tight as fuel will evaporate out of any leaking areas including leaky injectors causing it to be out of fuel or possibly flooding itself... if this is the case turn the key on without starting it and you will hear the fuel pump prime up for a few seconds. turn the key off and do it again..then try to start it holding the accelerator all the way down to open the intake and allow it to air out.....hope this can help and good luck

whatever works for us and makes us happy

I do understand your concern and agree never to over-apply silicone. I always like to spread a fine film around the outer perimeter of all seals just to help them to slide in and also to keep them from sliding back out and assuring a good seal.....any exess wil be forced out the front of the seal as it is pushed into the housing and then wiped off but none gets behind it..anyway..i pinched the damned seal yesterday and had to restart all over again today..i also found a better seal at Meyers imports that fit in like a glove..for a couple of bucks less to boot. all good. mom is gonna get alot more years out of this carhttps://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1393285897658539&set=a.1384855311834931.1073741829.100009314259795&type=1

thanks guys..i youtubed it and just finished changing it...oil pump seal is what auto parts stores call it....i always called them front seal too but i guess because its on the pump. good thing i didnt have to take the pump back off. the oil seal was loose in the seat...slid right out with a couple of taps to one side. i put a bit of grey silicone when i put the new one in just in case because it went in snug but seemed way to easy as to what im used to with any seal. you guys rock!! im giving this car to my mother because my daughter just got her 04 wrx..she donated this wagon cuz grammas been walkin.

I changed the oil pump seal on the 97 impreza sport last year because it had a front seal leak. it started leaking again because i got the pump on e-bay. i want to change the seal if possible but need some input before i start pulling belts off. i threw away the old pump and want to know if it just has a normal seal or if the seal is part of the pump. i really dont want to change the pump again. any help appreciated. thanks