bertmann73

thats what i do in a nutshell...we know the dunes out here like our own mugs....i would follow my kids on their quads in the brat...fit on all the trails the quads squeezed into. they know me well as i have been there quite often in the brat and in the wagon..just happened that one of the guys from the rally team was there on that day...had to haggle a bit on the wrx as it had an oil leak that we wanted fixed...same old song and dance....... manager doubted my knowledge of these engines and tried to give me the old "used cars leak" speech. when i told the sales manager that i had 5 soobies and then my daughter cut loose and told him she dont care and she was not going to buy a leaking subaru from a subaru dealership he stopped haggling and just put the repairs in..we have a good dealership out here but as with all of them, they ultimately try to get what they can out of our pockets with minimum loss to them.....all said it was a good experience as we got what we wanted and they sold another car.

she got an 04 wrx and is giving her 97 outback sport to my mother

I took my daughter to buy her first car today and the team at Subaru of las vegas got a kick out of the wagonhttps://www.facebook.com/SubaruOfLasVegas

E-bay is my auto parts store since i got my old soobs.......just have to check constantly and parts will pop up and if you have the dough...get em!! i like to keep spare parts like clutch disks, clutch cables...................oooh them clutch cables, dont get me started on those! and brake parts when i find them cheap because when they go and you have to wait for them to be shipped it really sucks.

they interchange fine...got one on the rear passenger wagon door and on the tailgate of the brat....came off 84 brat.

like sarge said..how to keep your subaru alive got me through my first subaru engine as far as torque specs, valve clearance, and assembly tricks to these split blocks. easy to follow..like talking to a backyard mechanic with a beer in your hand. you will need a donor 17mm(or 11/16'') socket and a grinder to shape it with for a couple of hard to get head bolts. other than that just follow the pdf step by step.

if anything you can always load all with 15 amp fuses and see if things work. just dont use any 25 amp for now. that will get you going until you find the right order.

i have a 78 and 79 subaru so mine are top to bottom...maybe not the same as yours then. might be mounted different but i cant say. there are others here with your car so maybe wait until someone else responds. sorry

I have a complete ea71 engine that i rebuilt when i got my wagon. I got the wagon with a failed main bearing. i rebuilt it so i could pass inspection as original wequipment and drive until i found parts to do the DR ea81 transplant when when i got it i took it apart it had just been rebuilt but the knucklehead forgot to tighten up the sump tube and the bearing failed. engine cylinders were de glazed, crank was polished and all new bearings replaced. it has new .075 itm pistons. engine is a solid and ready to run. i have been saving the engine and trans in case i find an old coupe but i could use some cheddar right now. send me a pm if interested.

continued because of my fat fingers 6 clock, hazard, stop, horn 14 amp 7 wiper, heater radio,lighter 25 amp 8 light switch 25 amp all are 15 amp except 7 and 8 which are 25 amp you can use the 10 amps in the 15 amp slots or 15 in the 25 if you have to as the only thing you can harm by doing so is the fuse. DO NOT put a higher rate fuse than is required as the fuse will not do its job and the wires will fail instead.

the fuel filter is directional. i have not seen a plus sign yet but i would imagine that would be the front or towards the carb. they usually have an arrow to show the correct path from the tank to the carburator.. fuses are as follows: 1 is top and 8 is bottom... 1 Headlight high beam 15 amp 2 head light low beam 15 amp 3 tail lights and license plate 3 turn signals, backup, rear defrost 5 ignition, start, fuel pump

if the new fuses dont change anything, first thing i would check is the ground from the battery. you should have a large cable to the engine and a smaller one to the fender well or somewhere on the body. old cars are notorious for for bad grounds and a bad ground can cause all kinds of trouble even for us gear heads. if the body is not grounded alot of things inside wont work. second is the positive terminal from the battery to the contact terminal. from there all positive power is distributed. check for corroded or frayed wires heading to the firewall. also check the fuse slot contacts. the fuse should fit snug and not twist with your fingers. they get hot and warp causing them to lose their rigidness and cause a loose contact with the fuse. you can simply squeeze them together with your fingers until the fuse pops in snugly. try sanding the insides of the fuse slots if they look dirty. some things only work through the alternator and voltage regulator so make sure they are both good. my lights will fail if my regulator goes bad. good luck

absolutely. I ground my bell housing and shortened the stud. the rest is in adjustung the engine stabilizer bar on top of the engine to the sweet spot

They also have magnetic towing lights that you can stick on your bumper. check your local u-haul store or a trailer/camper sales place

sorry. i wasn't reading that you already have a weber. check and see if all hoses are good and check the diaphragm accelerator pump on the side of the carb for signs of fuel leaks. check the kit gaskets are in good shape. the only time webers give me trouble is when they are grabbing air from gaskets or hoses. i still think its the vacuum advance on the distributor. and old trick that i use also is to accellerate the engine manually fromk the carb until around 3 grand and suddenly choke it out with a clean towel or your hand and force the engine to suck any debris out of the carb that may be stuck. good luck.

sounds like the accelerator pump is bad or your timing advance diaphragm on the distributor may be bad. if you pop the distributor cap off you can see the arm move when applying suction to the hose on the module. i usually test by sucking on the hose and watching to see if it moves. imagining you have a milk shake on the other end helps. it should hold suction for at least 10 seconds when you cap it off. if its good then it will be the accelerator pump inside the carb. it looks like a tiny old school bicycle pump piston or a plunger. These go bad from the ether in gas these days. they also are prone to grabbing dirt and scratching the tiny cylinder wall when the rubber boot cover wears out. you can hone out with a 800 grit or finer sand paper in a circular motion to remove scratches. I just throw these carbs out and get webers . but i understand the need to keep things original

very franken-soob....cant wait to see that running....i wanna do it now

Great information. thats why i love this forum. just fit the drive shaft and see what happens.

Greetings Greg. If you indeed like to turn a wrench or two then a Subaru is a great car for you.The engine position is the best feature of the vehicle as it is mounted center with a transmission behind it .......The way cars should be. Apposed to most side-ways mounted front wheel drive motors which are mounted atop a tran-saxle, whereas if you have ham hands like mine, maintaining them is anything but a good experience. Just take the alternator for instance. my friend has a PT cruiser that he had to switch one out on. He had to remove the front tire along with the fender-well and cv shaft. this scenario goes for most normally serviced parts on most newer vehicles.When i showed him the alternator on my wifes 2009 impreza just sitting atop its mount front and center as if to tease him, i thought he was gonna take a swing at me. When i showed him the starter sitting atop the back of the motor i had to run and hide from him. the ease of access is astounding. the only other way to get this experience is with a rear wheel drive vehicle which is most likely to have a v8 with the same confined space issues due to its size fuel efficiency issues and not to mention lack of grip on slippery surfaces. I was a hardcore Chevy guy and remember laughing at any car with 6 cylinders and under until gas prices drove me to downsize. Subaru gives me the same wrenching pleasure and then some. if you have any questions about the integrity of a boxer engine just look at how long the V.W. bug has been on the road, the power that is pulled out of a porches 4 cylinder boxer and look at all the classics here on the forum. subaru has come a long way and has perfected the boxer while other car companies have ditched them due to making more profitable and cramped front wheel drive cars. Subaru simply embraced its low RPM torque capabilities, low center of gravity prtoperties and made it all wheel drive. besides, we here are all a great family and as you can see here...we live to help others with their soobs and will answer all of your questions.

Dude....any joy-ride in a 78 wagon is enough to start a thread man!! bet you had a blast watchin new cars get stuck and the looks on there faces when you mosey by them without a care in an old wagon just rubbernecking it!!

most likely the pick up. they are basically an enclosed point system replacement that send a magnetic pulse to the coil. works very similar to points except no contacts to clean. if this dont do the trick make sure you have power to the distributor by using a test light. check the ignition system is connected correctly. if it has a white ceramic resistor on the coil you should have full power to the coil while cranking via the starter position before the resistor and reduced power after start up after the resistor. if one of the positions is compromised in your ignition switch it will either start and die after you let off the switch or crank forever and magically start after you let go. given it has not been started for years you may not experience any start up at all. you can also find the hot wire to the distributor and coil and connect directly to the battery to bypass a possibly faulty ignition switch. check that the engine is properly grounded and distributor is tight. the negative battery terminal should have a large ground to the engine and a smaller ground to the fender well or body. hope all is well.

Agreed.....there are rare ea71s with a fatter bell housing that will fit the newer trannys but very illusive. best bet is to find an ea81 as they are very similar to ea 71 with little added boost of power and same simple dependability. also easier to find parts for ea81s. ea 71 setups are lighter and chances are that without modifications to the engine it may be reluctant to pull a heavier dual range tranny which has the same gear ratio at the single range. as for making the bell housings fit it just wont happen as the bell housing also has the rear seal and the crankshafts are different sizes. im not saying it cant be done, but i would bow down to the first one to do it. since you already have the donor car to make your wagon the one that i have dreamed of.....find an ea81 or rebuild the ea82 that you have and run it. EA82s ar as i hear from this forum a very reliable engine as long as you dont neglect it. however you can beat an ea 71 or 81 like an unwanted stepchild and it ill always run.

Make sure the rear end matches the transmission ratio...good chance that tranny is out of a gen 2 wagon and will be missing it's corresponding differential given it was not swapped out at the same time the trans was. I know there is a thread on gear ratio here somewhere. this will make no difference on dirt surfaces but will bind up the gears in 4wd on pavement and compromise traction on wet or icy conditions due to front and rear wheels gripping out of tandum. if the rear end was swapped then no worries. take the drive shaft to a reputable welding or drive line shop and have it shortened. I have long wanted to swap over but reading here gives me the knowledge of needing a whole donor wagon to do so.

I find that ea81 and ea71 gaskets can be re-used given they have not been run with tap water and corroded. i have done it many times using copper spray sealant....I live in an unforgiving dessert too. try doing this with any other motor and your toast

welcome...cant wait to see pics of your brat.....I would dismantle the carb and check the accelerator pump cylinder wall for scratches and pits. sometimes you can hone these lightly with a 2000 grit wet/dry paper given they are not scratched too bad. thats the main thing i look for because if they go bad the carb is toast. also check the base for over-torquing by placing a straight edge of some sort like a ruler to see if it is warped. you can also fix this by sanding the surface flat again. if your not worried about keeping her stock and want power get a weber kit and all your troubles are gone.