bertmann73

Before and after need paint...I am thinking of a matte blue similar to the original color....just dont want to worry about scratches as i am on an off road trek. looking into some tires for the original wheels as i do like the look so much better and stick out about an inch due to new undercarriage. I see alot of all seasons on e-bay that have a rugged tread pattern.

Sounds to me like regulator is definately shot. I got mine at o'rileys for about 20 bones...has to be ordered. I bridged the resistor underneath about 3/8" with a peice of wire and got it to run14 volts instead of the 10 it hd been producing. I have wanted to go with an internal regulator unit but do not want the hassle of re-wiring everything. sucks cuz everything is hard wired through the regulator. maybe some day ...... alot of better alternators to choose from.

Also have spare set of headlight mounting brackets and turn signal lense. that is a very nice wagon and worth fixin....dont look too bad to me.

too bad your not invegas cuz i have 3 spare radiators

Not ugly...just means you have fun in it.....if you dont scratch it that means you havent driven it right!!

The engine this is my red neck wrist pin puller (Claw hammer and wood block sold seperately) had crank ground .025 block bored .025 for ea71 pistons I gound the cam journals 1mm on my bench grinder..........oh so slowly and carefully...... block cleaned and heads milled nissan truck radiator Oil Cooling system Cable operated 4wd and low (dint want to cut a shifter hole and now i can use low without 4wd engaged)

front end mods 5" of the stock strut casing butted to the 84 brat struts grinded a ridge to fit the bottom end cap three stage weld and grind to widen the control arm i cut, grinded and drilled 3/8 flat bar and welded to the end of the control arm. I used 84 axels and tie rod ends exhaust is made from an old hedder that i replaced on my 62 chev. used the elbows for the 2 hedders and welded together 2 more in the center for an x pipe. used a cherry bomb that i had and cut it in half then buuted the ends...not as loud as i thought it would be but sound sick.

Heres one for my dead homies 62 chev bored 350 crane cam, victor Jr intake, carter competitionsereis carb, Holley fuel delivery system, turbo 400, posi rear end, 78 chev chassis 33 mudders. sold to get daughters 95 My cGMC Canyon traded for the wifes 09.jpg]My dune buggy project. honda shadow 600cc v-twin with banshee widened front clip.... My 660 raptor No photos of my 68 Chevy II...................Tear

I was in love the first time i saw the engine in my brat back in 09. i have slowly killed of my domestics and switched over to subie.....this was my baby before the wagon

wifes 09, daughters 95, friends 00 forester and my 79. 78 brat is hiding in back ....Just another day at my place

porting the intake is finding your favorite abrasive tool and removing whatever metal you can. In my case i used a 5" 5/15 bolt and rounded the head with my grinder. i then scored it with a cut-off blade to give it some sharp ridges. It worked fine to remove alot of material. I did this with the adaptor plate installed to ge na even flow from the weber sown to the ports. same with the heads. i did not get them polished as i do not have the funds but she does breath alot better and picks up the 26" tires just fine. The oil filter relocation is a result of me looking into kits and saying to myself - I can make that the cooler is off a wrecked suzuki 1100 crotch rocket. it has 1/2 inch lines and is relatively small yet has a large cooling capacity. i took an old ea81 oil pump and hacked off the mount ring before the pump. then i tapped it aninserted fittings, made a bracket and mounted it to the frame. on another oil pump i tookan A/c nut that fit the filter threads and welded a fitting to it. then tapped and fitted the outer ring hole. Basically my lines run from the pump to a sttelite oil filter, cooler then back to the pump. the cooler allows for a thinner oil such as a 5-30 synthetic blend as thicker oil creates alot of oil pressure and power loss

I cant add anymore pics for some reason.

rear end removed and washed. brackets fabricated from flat bar

Any way , here are the rear end mods Donor car 84 brat

this was my first back in 09 i ran the ea 71 until i blew a head gasket. i tried to get the bolt out of the block to resurface it but some knucklehead put the blue lock-tite and i snapped 2 bolts trying to remove. i had a machine shop drill and helicoil but the threads never took tourque. I finally re-drilled and tapped a larger bolt then drilled and tapped the cut off bolt and it held tourque. after finishing the engine and having fu i blew the tranny. I replaced all with an ea81 dual range set up. I painted it with rattle can and lifted it 3" It is now sitting waiting for my son to turn 18 since ther are very little brats in the desert it gets alot of attention I was in arizona visiting an a good ol boy at a gas station said " Is at one dem der cars dat goes in da worter?" If you have any red neck in you you will understand that.

converted from 2wd ea71 to 4wd ea81 dual range 4wd Specs ea81 with ea71 .025 ITM pistons self ground cam self ported heads 84 brat rear differential assembly custom fitted for 5" lift weber carb with self ported intake Front clip modified to fit larger nissan truck radiator Oil cooling system fabricated from parts laying around relocated oil filter extended front struts and 4 inch undercarriage lift. 84 brat front axels and tie rods with self extended controlarms

surprisingly the stock hitachi on the wagon did awesome exept for cold starts. i found a weber on local CL and put it on...power felt the same but improved on starts and overall idling. That ea71 was built though and had some balls. I dont think the carb makes much difference on a well built engine. I was thinking of finding a single range 4wd and do the build with that engine but the dual range does so much better in sticky situations. my ea81 is built solid and i am happy. I wish there were old school subie folks out her to sell the ea71engine to.

I just started thinking that i did not re-wire the 78..i just ran an electric to eliminate the manual one when the bearings fried( Melted the fan off the mountf romk the friction of the belt).. anyway i just checked the wires and the fan has a blue and a black coming from the wire harness directly under the radiator and the switch wire is a solo black with a female round post connector comin from the same harness as it branches out to the passenger side headlight. i does this right under the battery platform. Hope this helps.

Unfotunately i have yet to see an un-tampered wire harness. Hopefully someone here has.

on my 78 it had one wire from the switch to the fan...maybe re-wired from previose owner but not sure. It had a manual fan on a pulley and the electric only came on when hot. on my 79 it had 2 coming off the switch. one to the fan and te other to the harness. there was no manual fan and the electric fan was always on while the motor was running and i think the switch was a back up to keep it on when hot after shutting off the motor. reguardless i re wired all my fans. if you want it as a backup all you need is a fused non switched Battery power source ( I go sraight to the battery) and the radiator switch is the ground. if you want it to come on when the engine is running you must find a ground source that is switched possibly one of the wires you are looking at. or run a relay from the ignition to switch a groud source so that the fan runs while the ignition is on and stays on after shutting down if hot. I would run a test light to the wires and see if one of them is a switched ground first. my guess is the wires are fried and thats why some knucklehead wired it to the wiper motor.

Thanks. The toe being out or in would make me squirrely or very touchy to steer. i would bet on camber of one side being off. i will find the adjustmet on the strut and check it out. I was not aware of these being adjustable. I hope this works.

I went to test drive and possibly trade the 09 sport for a crosstrek but i was not impressed with the shifting of the belt driven tranny or the power. of course thats the price for better gas milage and also it was for the wife and if she wanted it i would have swapped. but she loves her sport and so do i. i was doing 120 once to cali and didnt notice until i looked at the speedo....with a subtle whistle, i discretely deccelerated.

I went to look at an impreza for my daughter. it was leaking oil but the engine sounded great. i got it for 1000 and drove it home. I replaced the oil pump as the front seal leaked and why not...the cam seals as well. still leaking..found the cap behind the right head and replaced it. upon examining the tranny i noticed a dent and pulled the pan. the dent was right on the filter opening and limiting fluid flow. got Mr hammer and put back together..shifted better but still acting wird in 4th. i replaced throttle position sensor and all is well. Last problem is pulling to the left. no signs of accident. Before i start replacing more stuff can anyone tell me something that can help?

are these still available? mine is beyond bad and has caused a rust spot on the floor that needs to be repaired. is there anywhere to find the outside rubber along the top of the door sills?

I had the same problem on my brat...mine turned out to be the points condensor .........of course after replacing the points, coil and not to mention a couple days of headache and trouble shooting. Another FYI....When the alternator or voltage regulator goes the car dies after a few minutes as the light pops on. most cars i have ever owned will run off the battery if these go, but not the old soobs.....after thinking it was the alternator and being stranded again.....i replaced the regulator and all was well