igammie
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Gloyale "Biggest thing is to support the inner race of the bearing as you press the hub through. If not, the outer bearing race will be loaded by the force of the press." [i only wanted to quote that line...] Thank you, that is obvious; and I hadn't thought of it. Imdew, Given how little the parts cost and the relative ease of the job.... I'm not good at ignoring stuff, it's like an itch I have to scratch! -
http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-wheel-bearings-explained-part-1/
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My gut reaction is to agree with you. If I got 260K miles from the old fashioned type..... The newer standard roller bearing is easier to install, but.... I'm undecided. Who do you purchase old fashioned tapered 'finger' roller bearings from? Which brands do you trust which have to best life in Subarus? Thanks! (I attached pics of the two types in case someone is confused - I have always called them finger bearings but I don't know if that was my family or universal?)
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With brain working, I think I might have answered my question? I think the circlip should prevent contact?
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I see from attached Subaru service bulletin that Subaru changed specs from the 'Finger' roller bearings installed at manufacture to regular roller wheel bearings. I have the new part but I am concerned that the mating surface hub is radiused and that will destroy the oil seal it is against? That it will lead to premature failure? Anyone have any real word experience? Thanks!
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The Scrap yard told me they were different; from memory I thought they were both 3.2 lock to lock wasn't too sure about the Wheel base but know that the width is identical?
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Anyone know if I can use a steering rack from a Legacy Outback (96) in a Legacy (97). I have no idea if there is a difference, I just replaced the rack with a second hand one, which is now leaking. They Legacy OB is the only rack in this area. Thanks!
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Thanks Fairtax4me; you helped me reach the right conclusion. I ordered the Timken parts today. I ordered one complete set of seals, that I'll return if not needed.
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Given that it is an seventeen year old car that has done 260,000 miles I think there is a good chance that the seals will have dried out and since I am taking the hub to pieces the extra cost of replacing seals is small compared to the increased life of the new bearing? Same reason I'll do both sides unless it looks like it was done before I go car (once I have it apart).
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I agree completely; I was just thinking of trying the Febest in case they were worth it. It could save people a bunch...
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Might be willing to try? http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/102698-02-outback-transverse-link-bushing-rear.html
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It is cheap; but, that isn't enough to make me try it... If someone else can vouch THEN, I'll take the chance?
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Has anyone tried these? Can anyone vouch for them? This is the link for my car: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DM9SZPI/ref=ox_sc_imb_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A6JK0PO3GJYXY If not I'll buy the Timken part from Rockauto. FYI the Amazon part is $34 including seals and snap ring. The Rock auto is a lot more as you purchase each part separately. Thanks in advance. As you know the job sucks I don't want to save 50% and do it again next year. Pressed bearings suck!
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I just put a new, to me (used rack}. I put in cheap power steering fluid as I intend to flush the system and replace. I have to assume rack and my handiwork will produce contaminants. How long should I wait before I change? I was thinking a month (I drive about 1,400 miles per month. Thanks in advance! If this is elsewhere and I missed it, sorry.
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I set it by voltage... My scan tool is quite basic; I'll have a look and see if I can access that data?
