igammie
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Everything posted by igammie
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At start up it will generate two P0122, and a P1700; not always but 90% of the time. When cleared it will generate the same. It also has a rough (irregular) idle This weekend I'll remove the sheathing and inspect all the wires, check for a bad ground and for 0.5V on the signal wires -
Does anyone know which wire color is which? I need to find my wiring problem. I would guess Black is power, which I believe should be 5V? Past that I am guessing. Once TPS plug is removed finding live and ground should be easy; do I need to worry about finding the signal wire (0.2V right?) (other than inspecting all the wiring for wear). If I am lucky There will be some worn insulation so the fix will be easy. Otherwise I need to find a bad ground I am guessing? Should any one have a diagnostics procedure or flow chart I would be REALLY grateful. Thanks again! Note Throttle position sensor has already been replaced, this is no longer intermittant and occors most days at start up.
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Personally, I would check them when I replace valve cover gaskets or during an engine rebuild. Since you have no issues....? Valve clearances are an art, you need experience, really. You can do a lot of damage fast if you mess it up; be careful. (There are people much better and much more experienced than me, that is only my opinion )
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Poly-armour brake lines it is Thank you all! You (rock) \m/
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Does anyone have an idea about galvanized vs powder coated, vs Stainless. Is stainless worth the money? Obviously stainless would mean the job only needs doing one; but as always with age of car and miles it might just not be an issue?
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I think I found part of my answer, clearly I should avoid copper and hydrolic line;-) (I do not know how to quote from one thread to this...) "porcupine73 Posted 22 January 2008 - 04:12 PM Interesting article on brake lines and corrosion at http://www.copper.or...brake_tube.html What do you guys think of the products at www.fedhillusa.com Their three questions are...and my answer in green. 1. What size and how long is your brake line. 3/16"/4.75mm od 2. What kind of flares are on each end of line. 45 deg. SAE double flare 3. What kind of brake line nut is on each end. 10mmx1.0 SAE nut So based on that info I need a double flare tool kit and supplies: The tube nuts will all be either 10mm x 1.0 male fully threaded steel nut, 16mm overall. SAE (double) flare. standard Asian style nut. or the longer: 10mm x 1.0 male fully threaded steel nut, 21mm overall. SAE (double) flare. standard Asian, long style nut. and then where I tap into the existing lines under the seat will be: 10mm x 1.0, SAE (double) flare, Asian, metric, female steel union, 26mm overall. Use with 10mmx1.0 male SAE nut and 3/16"/4.7mm SAE (double) flared brake line. [i am storing this comment here] Not too sure about other line options?
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I just spent an hour clearing rust from the two rear brake bleed screws.... I have 241K miles and live in northern Wisconsin where we have a LOT of salt. I am thinking of starting to replace and dodgy brake lines? Does anyone know which diameter line I need? Considering rust proof powder coated or galvanized lines. Anyone have any idea which of these will last longer or work better? I could do stainless but that is a factor more expensive. As always, thanks for your input. Should anyone know how much brake line I'll need or think I should use copper instead please correct me
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So it is here when someone else is looking [from my EJ22, 1997 factory manual] Valve clearance: Intake: 0.20+/-0.02mm (0.0079+/-0.0008 in) Exhaust: 0.25+/-0.02mm (0.0098+/-0.0008 in) A lot of people search for stuff like this, I am sure we have it somewhere in here, this came up first in my Google search, so I answered this one... It looks to me like EJ25 is the same? If not someone more knowledgeable will correct me!?
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I am in the process of replacing all the hoses, but that is about four a year.... I didn't know it would help with hoses For the price I might try it? There are no leaks, yet...
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Thanks, that's why I checked
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I have a EJ22, is the Subaru coolant conditioner (which I think is designed to help with head gaskets?) worth the money? Would you recommend it? Is it worth the extra money? This is the product I am talking about: http://prntscr.com/1rdov6
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Thank you! Wanted to check before I started prying Anyone know if I'll need to heat it?
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One possibility is that the fluids you replaced (oil and ATF) were old; as they age they get thicker and more viscous. When you put in new, slippery, fluids you can suddently see a bunch of small leaks you'd never notice before? If you keep everything topped up and start servicing it regularly you should be fine IMO. Any old hoses can be replaced over time either when you change coolant, or ATF. They do not have to be done right now. Any professional mechanic can test to see if the head gasket is blown. If you can string or tune an instrument you can certainly replace hoses. Check youtube for videos on replacing engine coolant. They will help, if you'd like to do it yourself? This is one of the kits you can use to see if head gasket is blown: Oh and just for the record I am only an amateur, there are many many people who no way more than me and can run circles around me...
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I haven't checked this but it might help as a guide? Engine length EZ30 = (estimated 445mm... not easy to find one to measure but have info from subaru chaps). Engine crank centre to lowest point EZ30 = 232mm (as close I can work out using a wet sump) [source: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4722487]
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Were can I get engine parts?
igammie replied to Kroaker23's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Try: http://opposedforces.com/parts/ Or, parts.subaru.com The oil pump doesn't wear out much the O-rings will fix most issues.... You might find a pump at a scrap/junk yard? -
I have a spot or rust under the glass top left of the left 3/4 panel. There is a piece of plastic 'chrome' trim I will need to remove to repair rust. Can this piece of trim be removed without taking out glass? It's night here, sorry about the bug in the picture.
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Perfect! Thank you I spend hours on parts.subaru.com looking at the diagrams trying to find them. Thank you!
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I am trying to find the correct part number so I can replace these two hoses. At sixteen years and 241,000 miles I am, over time replacing all of the hoses. Picture is from Chilton's manual. I think if I removed them I could easily match them up to rockauto pictures, but I could easily damage them too. Thanks for your help.
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djmark, you seriously rock! Thank you all!
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Anyone worked out if it is possible to replace burnt out bulbs in the heater controls? I had a look took it to pieces but it seems to be a sealed unit? Thank you
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See, that was why I asked here first. I and everyone who follows thank you
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Found one on ebay for $6.95
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I would like to get the full factory service manual PDF. I am aware that I might have to pay for it this time?
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Thank you! You (rock) \m/
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I know it must be in here, but I can't find it. I had it on an old laptop; when online storage was at a premium.... Could one of you smarter people direct me? TIA
