Ionstorm66

Did you test the transistor ground in the car? They are famous for the coil bracket getting dirty, and the transistor loosing ground.

My SPFI wagon has had a issue for a month now Symptons: running like crap down on power wont idle without some throttle super rich, can smell unburnt fuel Things done checked tps ohm and idle switch checked CTS ohm replaced cap, rotor and plugs air/fuel filters good fuel pressure good IAC works correctly when tested.

you can drive a long long time with a bad rear wheel bearing. I had one strip the threads holding the nut in, and ran it for 20k+ miles before getting a new control arm. Also you just need a giant hammer to get the axle out. Ive hit the axles so hard the car slides to get them out.

Some how my seat belt module got wet. Can't find any for Loyales, found one for a Legacy with the same connector for the switches, but the motor connector is different. Should be easy to adapter that has its just power, ground and the 4 motor wires. Hoping everything swaps over, but I cant seem to find a FSM for legacys with auto belts. I found one but it stops before the page with the diagram. Any chance someone has it? I need pages 80 and 81 from this book. I have the Loyale and XT books with the diagrams.

Any one try these? They are the right size and MTs. I have the Forceum MT's and can tell they are narrower.

they are much thicker than normal so be aware the ride will be worst.

Could be the coil fuse.

This might sound dumb, but try cheap rump roast fluid. I used 80w90 out of a 5 gallon pail a buddy had. It was gl4+gl5 rated, smelled like hell. It made my trans so quiet I found out I needed a pilot bearing lol.

First post says 4 inch lift and EJ swap.

If you need an ECU let me know, I think I have a manual spfi spare.

You could also just get good tint on the glass, it will reject almost all of the thermal energy.

Yes also of you swap most the major components from one car to the other, including the vin plate, you get issued a NEW vin. You must show them both vin plated, attached and unaltered, and they issue you a new vin and a rebuilt title. Then your title looks crazy as they list all 3 vins on one. Been there done that on trucks. Swapping good cabs on to good drive train frames. Note if they catch you with an illegally altered vin, not only is it a felony, the car gets crushed. This is the federal government, they don't codswallop around. Do you not remember them collecting all the illegally imported GTRs and crushing them?

I run walmart douglas tires. They are like $45 bucks a pop, and I get over 20K a each even with a crappy rear alignment. You can also get the 165/80R13 Forceum MTs for <$100 each on EBAY when they are instock. They are durable as hell, and are truck tires rated for 40% more load than the normal car tires 1400 vs 1000 pounds.

The 1 wire coolant sensor is for the gauge, and the two wire is for the ECU.

Start with 2 running cars if it's for first swap. Photo/video everything and write down everything. What I have always done for any swap is get the ECU/wiring out of the donor car, label/document all the connectors, and with any wire cut, label both sides! Then when the ECU and wiring out of the donor car. Plug it back into the engine and get it running. If it doesn't work you can go though anything you cut and have both sides. You can hook it all back up until it fixes the issue. Then with everything hooked up in the recipient car get all your measurements and wiring labeled while it's still running and you can test things. Don't do anything to the wiring in the car yet. Do the mechanical transplant next. Get it all in, plumbed and read to run. Then get it running with the unmodified hardness from the donor. It should work the same as when it was in the other car. Fix any wiring/fuel issues first so it runs fine. THEN pull the wiring out of the recipient car and merge the hardness. By doing it in stages and keeping it running at each stage you can reduce the possible issues to troubleshoot.

If you keep trying to crank it with the loose ground, it will burn up the transistor.

Yeah I my experience adding a ground from the battery to alternator, makes the alternators last twice as long! The replacement one I got last time has a extra tapped hole with a earth logo on it lol.

The #1 failure I see with no spark is the coil bracket having bad ground, which keeps the ignition transistor from working.

If you have pulse at the dizzy, and no spark, check the coil transistor. Its attached to the coil bracket. They bracket comes loose, which is the ground for the transistor, and that burns out the transistor.

I've pulled oem axles off at junk yards with torn boots and rusty cvs. Pull them apart, wire wheel all the rust off, clean and repack. They will run 50k+. You can tell the Subaru axles by the shape of the part between the cv and diff, all the aftermarket ones are slightly different.

If the ac and windows quit working, then I would check grounds. 11 is Crank Angle No Reference Pulse 13 is Crank Angle No Position Pulse 14 is Injector #1 abnormal injector output

Also make sure there is a screw in the rotor. The screw can fall out and the dizzy wont work as the rotor wont spin.

Look for some 15x6 wheels with about 0.5 to 1 inch of offset(3.5-4" backspacing). Those fit my ea82 wagon like a glove, running 175/55R15, the tires are the exact same size as the stock 175/70R13's.