Ionstorm66

It actually takes that long to correctly. It was not designed to be easy to remove.

Also make sure the coil bracket has good ground. The ignition transistor uses the bracket as ground.

Have you checked the fusible links? Give them all a good wiggle and pull. Next pull the ground off by the starter and clean both sides. Next do the same with the engine to chassis ground by the battery. The odd one is no oil light. Pretty sure that's completely separate from the computer. Also there are no PDFs of a wagon wiring. There is only XT manuals online.

I would replace the boots and see if they hold up. Generally when the cars get old, the rear is sagging to the bump stops. So there isn't much movement. New springs not only raise it up, but give it more travel. Literally the same thing happened to me this week after the same mod. Car has 130k on the clock and factory axles. If you do anything to the diff, I would highly recommend doing the upper diff bushing. Installing a diff drop is 80% of the work to replace it. Mine was completely buggered at 125k. I could rock the diff over an inch with one hand. Now my 4wd engage and disengage is like butter, quiet and smooth. Definitely increased the life of my drive shaft and center bearing.

The one that goes to the hard line? That's for the intake heater.

So my car is always low on coolant so my last two oil changes I measured it. For 5000 miles it's about a cup. I can't see any leaks, and passenger side foot well is dry. Just did my timing belts and didn't see anything on the water pump. Maybe a pinhole in the rad?

Yeah I consider a timing set a required spare on these cars. Atleast belts, you can spray lube a dead bearing to get you far enough to replace it, but rigging will save you from no belt.

Where is the best place to get axles? Rebooting my old ones is over half the cost of new ones. Napa was where I got my last ones, but now the remans are 65 vs 75 for new. On rock auto there are some "Heavy Duty" axles for the same money as the napa. Are these any better?

Plugging the upper weep hope dosent make it last any longer, it just takes you longer to find out the shaft seal is shot. Once coolant is to the weep hole it has made it though the seal and bearing. Sealing the hole only means it has to work though the other bearing before you notice it. Gives you a much higher chance of the bearing seizing before you notice. Also if the fan and belts are in good shape, pumps should last 100k.

I have never had an issue with chrome sockets on a cordless impact. I have a 1/2 and 3/8, and just run my normal sockets. Granted I don't own super high end snap on sockets that I'd be worried damaging, but they hold up fine. There might be some flex that is costing me some torque, but it has never been an issue. The big thing is only use 6 point sockets, same for with a breaker bar. I do have some impact sockets, but they are just because I needed a single socket and that's what I could find. My 1/2 will knock off axle nuts and crank pulleys. I would recommend spending money of a set of CV swivel impact sockets over a set of normal socket and a universal. They will help a ton with breaking loose bolts on tight spots. A socket on a universal with a impact is a tooth breaker, super dangerous.

The car already has low range? Either is a DL/GL or someone has already swapped it into the Loyale. They are about as good as they get for off roading manual transmissions for a Subaru. Actual 4WD and 1.59 low range. The only issue is lack of front LSD. If you want to go full nutso, you could buy a EJ dual range. They are only AWD, unless you can find a EA82/ER27 FT AWD. They have mechanically locking centers that will fit on a EJ trans, but you're stuck with the diff ratio. They have a custom long pinion. Also you can swap in lower ratio gears for the transfer case on the EJ, but it isn't easy. Plus with the 1.59 gears most LSDs wont fit.

Yeah EJ22 is >30% and a EJ25 is >60% increase. EA82 EJ22 EJ25 90 130 165 hp 101 137 167 lb ft Think about the XT6. The ER27 made 150hp and 156 ft lbs. The transmission in the XT6 is a proto-EJ trans. EJ internals will fit in a XT6 MT5, but the actual parts aren't the same. XT6 got 5 lug too. You might be fine with a EJ22 with a EA trans, but a EJ25 puts you well over a ER27. Subaru didn't make all those changes for no reason. With the EJ trans you'd need a custom drive shaft. You can make Frankenstein axles to get a EJ trans in a EA I believe, but I would just do the entire 5 lug swap in the front. You can get some XT6 hubs from suberdave for 5 lug rear, but they are pricey.

What did you do about the washer bottle when you added the snorkel?

I would imagine the ECU was more powerful and has larger maps. Also the power gain could be entirely artificial to justify the increased cost.

Try the pic now, should be fixed. Only issue is the flats on the shaft are too long after you tighten the nuts. So on hard bumps they hit the body. I lift would solve this, but I just cut off the flats.

SPF makes every suspension bushing for EA82 cars. I have almost every one installed. You get a bit more noise, but it really tightened up the handling. Shifter bushings are the hard one to find. As to the headgaskets, install an after market temp gauge and a new radiator cap. Keep it cool and they last. Also almost every oil leak can be fixed with motor in the car. Make fixing them your top priority. Oil leaks mean loss of pressure. Oil pressure is the number one killer of these motors. They don't need much, but you can't get new oil pumps. Replacing the oil pump seal helps a ton. Always do it when you have the timing belt off.

Is the regulator bad? You can get a cheap-o inline gauge to check it. With new injectors you will double the fuel going into the engine. Most stock ECUs will only trim 20% fuel before throwing a code. To clean injectors is easy. Take them off. Get some carb cleaner with a spray straw, a 9v battery, and some test leads. First make sure the input side is clean, and open. Lots of injectors have a tiny screen inside the input side. They will pull out. Hook the leads to the injector from the battery, and then spray the carb cleaner down the injector. You should see some come out the other end slowly. Some times you gotta seal up the input side to the straw with your fingers to get it though. Make sure you're wearing safety glasses. Also if you do one type of injector a lot, you can rig up an injector cleaner. Find an old intake and fuel rail, and rig a pump to flow cleaner though the injectors. I've done this with ford injectors for ages.

Yes. Off the top of my head: Trans Driveshaft Carrier Bearing Diff fuel tank Diff mounts axles hubs shifter wiring

Pretty simple swap. Best if you can get both cars in the same place.

You still running those tires, if so do you still like them? I'm getting ready to do the 6 lug to my wagon. I have a free set of 16 inch tundra steelies. Looking for a good tire that isn't a 30in truck tire. Looking at getting the 225/50-R16. Need the wide bois as its all sand here.

Are they both the same trans? There are 3 speeds and 4 speeds. Swapping between them would be a ton of work. The 3 speeds are dead nuts simple. All hydraulic control with just a single solenoid for 4WD. Send 12V to it for 4WD. The 4 speeds are electronic control. You have to do a ton of harness work, swap the dash etc, to get a 4 speed in a 3 speed car.

Tuned correctly it will be the same. Tuning an EFI car is much easier. If you're already using a stock ECU that is correct for the application, no tuning needed.

the non turbo will have a higher gear ratio. While it wont prevent the swap due to you swaping trans and rear diff, it will make the car more sluggish.

To answer my own question, the switch is inside the door latch. My passenger side one got stuck in the closed position. Sprayed some WD in the mech to clean out the gunk. Started working again.

Also I would baulk at 260k. It still has good oil pressure, and all the lifters are still working. You keep the oil clean and at pressure, an EA82 will last a long time. The normal culprits for killing them are oil pump gasket and timing belt snapping which kills the oil pressure, or just all the oil leaking out. Overheating/bad headgaskets only really kills the EA82Ts because the heads crack.