Ionstorm66

The do alignments with the tires on the ground, so anything like that would show up on an alignment. Something has to be different when driving. I need some clear weather to swap radius rods.

Power windows and locks were made standard when they went to the Loyale from GL/DL, so they are super common.

I've always just put a little pressure on the tensioner pulley with a pry bar against the water pump. My old car went almost 100k like that, never had any issues. The passenger side I just push up on it from the ground, it's a lot easier to get to.

Dose it have cruise control by any chance?

It's yours if you want it. It has like 260K on it. I have a 4wd 5mt. Only thing missing for a swap is the shifter top is broken, and the rear section of the drive shaft.

Where is the door switch for the automatic seatbelts located for the front doors? The one at the bottom of the B pillar dose the dash lights and some light, but dosent trigger the belt.

You can check the contacts to see if the cap is worn. There is a spec for it in the FSM. If it just got water in it, it won't wear it out prematurely.

Swapping a motor isn't hard if you can find one. Though with the 3eat it might me better to swap a 5 speed at the same time. I've got a motor, but I'm all the way in Florida. Maybe someone more local could help.

I replaced all 4, 2 on both sides. I can barely get the nut started with the new bushings, but I managed to get them on. Didn't make a difference in the hitting.

So I have had a random clunk ever since I replaced my rear struts with the toyotas. I finally figured out what it is. The top of the strut shaft is hitting the body. I tried replacing the bushing, but it isn't enough. On a sharp bump it will hit the body. Should I just cut the top of the shaft off, it's just the flats for holding the shaft? I guess then I run the risk of not being able to get the nut off. I could install a lift, but the new strut/spring combo already gave me 2 inch's of lift.

If you check the draw, it actual draws more power from the B+ than ACC. Atleast my 92 AM/FM/Tape did.

The radio and cam take the main power from the B+, and are switched on by the ACC. The stock radio was the same.

Im not having issues with the key on, its when the key is OFF. The wipers on high are a direct connection to the wiper motor, and thus a very low resistance path the ground. This keeps the ACC line grounded with the key off. With out that draw, the ACC line is floating, and pulls up and triggers my radio and dashcam to turn on. Flipping the wipers back on turns them off, as it pulls ACC back to ground. I guess I could just install a dumby light or resistor to pull it down.

I cut both sides of the ignition switch harness on my donor car. They don't have to be that large of relays. The B+ feed to the ignition switch is only the 1.25/16AWG fusible link. I replaced mine with a 80A fuse, they fit right in the fusible link holder. So you would only need an >80A relay.

Floating means its not hooked to 12v or ground. It is picking up noise from other sources. My radio and dash cam pull power from the B+ circuit, and are switched on by the accessory circuit. This is pretty standard, and is how the factory radio worked. The issue I have is because the line is floating, my new electronics are getting triggered by the noise on the line. The wipers are on the same circuit, so turning them on pulls the circuit low.

So I have an issue with my accessory circuit is floating. It causes my dash cam and radio to power on. From what I've seen it is fed from the key switch, but nothing grounds it with key off? Maybe the stock radio had enough draw to pull it down? If I put wipers on full blast, it pulls down the circuit. I think I am going to just install relays inline with the accessory and ignition, and short them to ground on the NC.

I would buy a chain grip pair of vice grips before a strap wrench. You can always use a old belt/rag between the chain and the part with them. I have never had a strap wrench take off something I couldn't by hand. Meanwhile a pair of chain grips will grab an axle hard enough to break the castle nut free with no diff. $8 with a coupon https://www.harborfreight.com/locking-chain-clamp-36813.html Also if you have trouble with the distributor side, pull the ac/alt AND the bracket. Without the bracket you have much better access. Also you can remove the little splash guards under the car. One bolt to the bottom rad support, and one bolt inside the wheel well.

I ended up putting both. Also I found that with the stock yoke bolt, a section of 3/8 ID vinyl hose with 3/8 flat washers on both sides of the yoke, fit perfectly. I can now tell what gear I'm in by looking at the shifter!

So got the one off my car. Figured out why it was so hard. So my car had a roll pin a roll pin. It has the a 12mm head shouldered bolt with no bushing. The 86 donor had a single roll pin. It has a 9/16 head grade 8 bolt and a steel bushing. Obviously the standard bolt and steel bushing was someones fix. Is the double pin normal?

You can take an old belt, wrap it around the pulley, then pinch it with some vice grips. Basically use the old belt as a strap wrench.

The service position on the hood makes it vertical and gets the hood stay out of your way. If you look on the hood there is the slot with the arrow, that is the normal spot. To the right of it is a second slot. Now look on the strut tower, there is a hole next to the bolt for the tire holder bar. If you remove the hood stay from the radiator support, you can put the bottom in the hole by the strut stop, and the top in the second hole in the hood. Now the hood will be vertical, and the hood and stay will be out of your way will working on the engine.

I have always put the car in 5th, locked the e brake, and use a breaker bar on the crank bolt. Takes a pipe some times. Do you know about the service position for the hood stay? With the cams you are opening the valves. It will snap forward once you get them open all the way.

So I am trying to track down my sloppy shifter, and it ends up being the bolt that goes though the shift yoke. Problem is the bolt head is right up the the drive shaft. Also I'm worried the yoke is wallered out from being loose. The donor car has zero play in the yoke. Issue is the yoke has a roll pin holding to the shift shaft. Will I hurt the trans by tapping out the roll pin? Also there is a leak on shift shaft, can the seal be replaced from the out side?

That's what I thought. Dude is parting out the car and I was eyeing the snorkel for my loyale. Pretty sure I can make it work.

Is there a snorkel made for a '00 outback or do you use something from an other car?