Ionstorm66

So I had a bad clunking going in and out of 4WD. Tracked it down to a toasted upper differential bushing. I could lift the differential by hand. Subaru part is NLA, but Superpro makes a replacement SPF3005K. Tools needed are: 17MM 21MM Milk crate to set the diff on Hack saw Somewhat of pressing the new bushing in. Some way of lifting the car I backed it up on some 6x6 to get enough room. I couldn't press the old outer because I lacked the correct die. So I ended up cutting a slice out with a hacksaw. I used a bolt and some washers to press the new one in. So I took it for a test drive, and it was so smooth going into 4WD I though it wasn't working. Push the button and let off the throttle at any speed and you can't feel a thing. Same goes for disengaging.

Wondering what this little device with two hoses is. It's on the driver's side where the fuel lines go into the cabin floor. It has two hard lines that run over to the fuel pump. Can't really tell where they are going as the car was so much under coat.

Yeah real head scratcher. I can't think of anything that wouldn't show up on an alignment that isn't bushings. Tomorrow I'm going to stick a camera in the wheel well and see if it's moving. Could be strut top or lower bushing I guess.

My aftermarket gauge matches my dash gauge for oil pressure. I have a 92, so its possible the gauge/sender is better. They are super common to get plugged with sludge, making them read poorly at low pressures.

I told you the fix for the air mix in the other thread. The hazards is the flasher relay. Royal pain to get to, but the plug fits standard 3pin flashers. The mount dose not. I bought an electronic on and fitted its guts in the old flasher. The door unlock is normal, hold the handle out as you close For the wipers look down a few threads at my post on it Battery drain is easy to find if you have a multimeter and a fuse adapter Windshield trim is pricey, you have to but the entire thing. Look for it at junk yards. Glove box latch isnt easy to fix. I would install a simple thumb latch. Maybe magnets.

You can see the serpentine belt on the AC/Alt/Waterpump AND the timing belt? Its pretty common to leave the covers off. They are half the timing belt job. Check down for my post on wiper blades.

Timing belt on a EA is about as easy as timing belts come. You can do in an about an hour with the engine in. The hardest part is getting the vbelt stuff out of the way. My tip for that is remove the alt and ac compressor bracket, plus the battery. Helps you get to the fan/water pump pulley better.

Fixed the bump stop issue with new springs and struts. It was on the same side.

Pretty sure all XT's have 4 speed auto or 5 speed manuals.

Oh I didnt see it was an XT. I think all of them had CC. The engine is the same unless its a XT6. What do you mean weird noise?

Nice, the factory cruise control is pretty rare. I only seen one IRL and it was a GL-10 wagon.

How low dose the oil get? It's pretty normal for these to only have 10-15 psi at idle.

Is it factory cruise control, or aftermarket? Factory cruise control has a button on the dash under the defrost, and controls on the wheel. So if you look under the rear seat on the wall of the foot well there is a small bag with an allen wrench. That is for the seatbelts. You can put it in a hole behind the drivers seat and move the belt manually. Move it all the way back and forth, it should free up. Might start working then. Next I would check the door switch. The hot/cold is a pair for cables. You can remove the selector buttons, and pull out the controls. Then carefully remove the cables. They are attached on the other end, so pulling one should push the other. See if you can move them with some pliers, only pull the cable that is shorter. Squirt some lube on the cable as you pull the other cable. Which buttons cant you figure out? Show some pictures.

New injectors? A MPFI has 4. First I would make sure everything is plugged in 100%, then check the fusible links by the battery. Check with a multimeter to the contacts, should be dead short. The only fuse box is under the steering wheel, by the pedals.

With a broken axle and open front diff, you wouldn't get anywhere with a broken axle. Also the pads wear evenly ok both sides, and the tires spin freely. Also car doesn't pull when braking before the tire locks up, so both fronts are working. The biggest issue is the lack of traction on the front right. I have to use 4wd to pull on to the highway in the rain, or it will spin the tire so bad I can't accelerate. Even going into 2nd and 3rs I have to be gentle or it will spin it. Braking isn't as bad, as I am used to it locking up the tire in the rain.

That's fine and dandy if you can find xt6 parts.

Rear Springs and Struts I ordered from rock auto as they have clearance on the struts and the springs! I used API 270470595 coil springs and Monroe 71352 struts. Total was $82 shipped! My only issue was the Monroe struts come with a cover for the rod. It has a metal washer to hold it on the top of the strut rod. The problem is this washer is larger than the relief in the Subaru cap. This causes you to be unable to install the top bushings. I omitted the cover, and ordered some generic ones. I initially thought the spring was too long, and cut one. I did test the second without cut just to see how much I lost. You can see the cover on the right: Stock vs Uncut and Struts: My wagon started with the right touching the bump stop due to my tools in the back. Numbers: 24.5" Before 27" Cut 28.25" Uncut Stock: Cut spring: Uncut:

Table of contents (links): Rear Springs and Struts

Pics: Practical! Current trunk situation: Engine Bay all stock minus amp wire and full size spare:

Here is my 1992 Loyale Wagon 5 speed 4WD. I bought it to replace my completely rusted '89 2WD auto DL sedan. Mods: Rear struts from 1998 4RUNNER Monroe 71352 Springs from a 1989 Accord API 270470595 with one coil cut off. $20 Walmart headunit with $25 Walmart 5.5" speakers in all 4 door. Ran new grounds to the fronts. $50 Used 10 inch sub with amp in way to small of a box.\ Plans: New front struts with kia spings 4 channel amp Roofrack Lights Keyless entry

What are the 2 wires by the AC relays for? Behind passenger side strut tower, there are the 2 relays for the AC fan, the vacuum canister, and two loose wires with female spade connectors. Blue with yellow stripe and black. They are right here, you can see them in front of the bracket for the relays/canister:

Who needs a truck?

I would just change the oil and fuel, and start it first. No reason to mess with compression unless it runs. Fuel is easy, just pull the hose going into the fuel filter off. Extend it with some more hose into a jug. Connect the green connectors and turn the key on. It will cycle the pump on and off. Keep pumping until its all out. Then look at the fuel and see if there is a lot of curd. If it looks clear, throw 5 gallons in, hook the hose back up, unplug the connector and see if she runs. PS: white on black text is a pain to read!

Mine have been 50/50. They are normally changed if it's an emissions state, as they help the cat last longer.

I ordered from rock auto as they have clearance on the struts and the springs! I used API 270470595 coil springs and Monroe 71352 struts. Total was $82 shipped! My only issue was the Monroe struts come with a cover for the rod. It has a metal washer to hold it on the top of the strut rod. The problem is this washer is larger than the relief in the Subaru cap. This causes you to be unable to install the top bushings. I omitted the cover, and ordered some generic ones. I initially thought the spring was too long, and cut one. I did test the second without cut just to see how much I lost. You can see the cover on the right: Stock vs Uncut and Struts: My wagon started with the right touching the bump stop due to my tools in the back. Numbers: 24.5" Before 27" Cut 28.25" Uncut Stock Cut spring: Uncut: