Ionstorm66

Dose it still die when its warmed up? If not it wont be the aux air valve, as it only raises idle when its cold. If it's getting hot, I would thing turbo. Is there any oil in the intake post turbo?

Wouldn't that show up with an alignment?

So I have had tons of issues using aftermarket bayonet style wipers. They don't stay on very well, and quickly start flopping around on the arms, and I've had one fly off. I ended up finding a set of adapters at Napa that let you use "heavy duty" wipers that bolt on to the arms. Part number 6-98999-146 was $7. It has a slot for the pin, and 2 screw holes. The slot and 1 screw lined up on my arms, so I just used some red loctite on it. They are made to use a shouldered bolt, but I just drilled it out to use a stainless #10 screw with a locknut. Old wobbly wiper: 0lGkqyr.mp4 New mount with wiper:

So the rear is sagging pretty hard so I'm going to replace the springs/struts. Passenger side is touching the bump stop on level ground, driver has about an inch. $80 bucks for the toyota struts and accord springs from rockauto, good old clearance parts!.

It's been to two shops. First one aligned it, then checked it after because of the pull. I then took it to a different shop and they checked the alignment. Everything is dead nuts other than one front camber off by 0.4, and there is no adjustment. Guy said that isn't nearly enough for that much pull. It pulls hard enough I can't even let go long enough to shift if I'm holding something.

All four wheels spin freely when they are off the ground by hand.

So my wagon has always had a right pull to it. Enough that it burns the corner off the right rear from constantly turning left. I've replaced trailing arm bushings, tie rod ends and put new tires+ 4 wheel alignment. Still pulling. Car drives straight with the wheel straight. Also don't know if it's related but the front right always breaks traction first. Under power or braking. Maybe it's lower control arm bushings?

Is it a 4 speed or 5? I think the only EA81/82 with a different fork are dual ranges and 4 speeds. If it isn't one of those, any EA81/82 fork will work.

Yeah I have to run up there and get a power steering pump. I scratched the bearing replacing seals on mine.

Haha I know which car you got that from. I bought the cruise control, the bottom half should of been in the passenger foot well. Atleast thats where I left it last month. Didn't happen to find a 10mm ratchet wrench did ya?

You can get a rusted beater EJ car for almost nothing these days as a donor.

Make sure all the hoses are connected and not cracked. Especially the PVC hoses.

If you had the dimensions it would be nothing to get a custom seal shop to make bushings, Ive had them made that way before. I guess ill pull it apart and check them all. Its also a e82 5 speed. The odd thing is up and down is 100% clapped, but left/right only left is clapped. Going into 5th and reverse actually has resistance.

I've been trying to find a good replacement for the shift bushing and springs. My shifter has gotten so bad you can't even tell it's in gear anymore. I have to shift it up and down to check!

I put some of the same straight sae 90 EP GL-5 my tractor takes. I'm in South Florida so no freezing temps here, and I buy it in pails, was like less than 10 bucks worth it oil.

I have all the original service info. After the warranty ended, it only ever got oil, tires and brakes. Not even air filter or plugs! Last dealer service was at 48K.

Did the transmission fluid on this car for probably the first time in it's life, and there is a good bit of very fine metal on the plug. Fluid looks ok, not burnt. Has 130K on it, and only issue I have is 4th can be hard to down shift into from 5th. Also have a bit of whine when not in gear at idle.

I haven't seen coolant in the engine, and it's constantly about a cup every 4K miles. No bubbles. I replaced the throttle body gaskets already too. It isn't enough to tear into things, but just enough to bother me.

Can I replace the manifold gaskets without pulling the ypipe? Been a while since I've done a EA, I know you can on EJs. Now that the head has no oil on it, I can see a exhaust stain forming on the passenger side, so need to replace them.

It wasn't all golden before the flush! Also I did the coolant, it was surprisingly all green still. No brown sludge like I'm used to on old coolant. Only issue there is it takes about a cup of coolant per oil change, and I can't find where it's going. Hope it isn't the start of a head gasket.

The poor ea82 in my loyale wasn't maintained very well by the old lady previous owner. I decided to try a engine flush product, and was actually surprised it worked. I had just done the valve cover gasket and both covers were 100% covered in sludge. It was a thick layer, enough that you could scrape it off with your finger. I bought a cheap engine flush and ran it on the next oil change. The stuff is basically diesel fuel with some additives. I lost the before pics, but you couldn't even tell they were aluminum. In the head the only thing that looked like metal was the cam lobes. Now there are clear sections of aluminum! The cam and caps cleaned up amazing. The cover wasn't as dramatic, but I think that's because it dosent get as much oil flow. It has to of cleaned a pound of sludge off the heads!

The column switch connects ground. The relays are just so your headlights are off when the key is off. It is a common modification to lots of old cars to add a relay for the headlights to preserve the switch. Switches are getting hard to find for lots of older cars. It's better to add a relay now, which dramatically reduces the current. Makes the contacts in the switch last much much longer. You should do the same to the starter line. The starter solenoid draws a fair bit of current, and the key switch can wear out. It's an issue on all contact based DC switches. With AC there is a zero point to extinguish the arc, not so with DC.

Yep and they were literally a dollar on rock auto when I got mine.

Cracked aluminum heads can be hard to do correctly, though on something that rare it might be worth it if you can stomach the cost. If it's inside a runner you'd want to drill the ends and braze it. If it's on the matting surface you'd have to bake the whole thing, then weld it, then keep it wrapped up. Cast aluminum is a bitch to weld, and really wants to crack afterwards.

Next would be bad ground somewhere. Simple test is to stick a jumper cable from battery negative to the alternator, and one from alternator to chassis.