Ionstorm66

Get a good ball joint tool, real easy to mess up stamped metal control arms trying to get stuck ball joints out.

Check with a meter in AC voltage at the alternator. Should be under 1V, very close to zero. If it as a external regulator, check at the regular instead. Forget what year that went to integrated regulators.

Solved it almost as soon as I posted. There was a ground not attached right at the relays. The ring had broken off. STuck it under one of the mounting screws, and fan works perfectly. Sometimes you get lucky and it's cheap AND easy.

So I narrowed my electric fan issue down the the AC fan relay at the passenger side not getting engaged. There is no 12v+ to the coil on the relay. I can't find a copy of that page of the diagram, dose anyone have it? When the AC is off the pin has ground at the relay, with AC on it just floats. If I add 12V the relay kicks on and fan runs.

I am checking the sensor. I'm just not getting quite to the 300 ohm spec, but the temperature is also not reaching 193. Didn't know if the computer thinks it's supposed to reach 193, but the sensor never reaches it, it would throw code.

Will a bad thermostat throw a code 21? Check the ohms on the sensor, I get 2800 cold and 550 hot. Unplugging the sensor spikes the idle up, so the ECU is reading it. Didn't know if it would throw the code if it didn't get up to temp.

The electric choke heats a coil that when expanded from heat opens the choke. All it needs a +12V. There isn't a sensor or anything. It's basicly a timer. Never been a fan of them, they normal have a air bleed that pulls air in to cool the coil as it's powered as long as the key is on. The bleed likes to plug up and burn the coil up. Then it floods the engine and strands you.

I had a bunch of codes in there from previous. It hasn't done it again so I can't figure which ones are just for this issue. Maybe it was a fluke.

I backed my wagon up my driveway to unload. Next day it was very rough idle and a cel, once it got on flat ground it cleaned up and cel went away. Had about 1/2 a tank so I don't think it was pickup issue, maybe vent?

How bad is the leak? If it's just some pin holes, jb weld on the inside will work. If it's more you can braze/epoxy some larger of pipe over the hole. Make sure you clean it really good before trying to patch it.

They are tapered roller bearings. The outer race is separate from the rollers, and is pressed into the knuckle. The are tapered so the require preload to be tight. Tapered bearings can take load in two directions, so when you corner and the car pushes against the wheel, that is still riding on the bearing. If there was a normal caged ball bearing, that side load would cause significant wear. The fronts have much larger ball bearings to compensate for the side loading.

This car had a hard/poorly maintained life before me. This is the inside of the engine after about 5 2K mile oil changes with a few atf flushes. When I first got it, it was worst. I did both the valve cover gaskets, and there was amount 1/16-1/8" of sluge.

Any of y'all running oversized filters? I have been running M1-301A for a while now. I did also use a L30001 when I couldn't get the Mobil-1. Holds almost a full extra quart. 5 quarts puts it right at the low mark.

Anyone have a spare electric fan thermo switch? I can see spending $100 on a new one when I could buy an complete aftermarket controller for that much!

Without the hub on, there is no preload on the bearings. Re-install the hub and torque to spec. Now put the wheel on. With the car securely in the air, try to move the wheel. If you feel any slop or rattle, there is something wrong. Check balljoints and loose bolts first. If not, it's a bad bearing. Second way to check is while driving, you generally will hear or feel the bad bearing when it's the outside wheel on a turn.

Block is much much thicker, and under almost no stress in a direction than can effect head sealing. The engine literally trys to blow the head off, and it's only held down by the head bolts. Plus it needs holes for intake/exhaust, cam placement, etc. That's why 2 stroke heads almost never fail. They only need to hold a sparkplug, plus maybe some cooling. I would never put heads back on without atleast a quick stoning. If that shows any unevenness then I would level them.

I would try scotch Brite under a stone to buff them out.

It gurgled after i took the cap off though.

So I parked my car today, and when I shut it off I heard a gurgling from the rear. I popped open the gas cap, I gurgled twice, and then it shot about 1/2 cup of fuel at me! I had about 3/4 of a tank in the car. What in the world could of caused that? Like I could see a plugged evap causing pressure, but the gurgling noise?

I have a aftermarket combo gauge, and my car does a hell of a job staying at the same temp. Maybe +/- 10F whille driving. Only issue mine has it at stop lights the electric fan termo switch is sticky, it will not come on, or stay on to long.

I have never had any issues with heat on my 92 loyale. Even with 100+ outside, up and down hills. Infact I've never seen it reach half way. It gets maybe a 1/4" past the tstat opening point. Maybe loyales all had dual core? My heat issue is the ac condenser getting heat soaked. After a minute or two at a stop light the AC gets warm. Also if you have fuel injection don't change you're tstat from stock! It cost me 8mpg when I got a 160F. Drove me nuts trying to figure out why. ECU will never leave closed loop unless coolant reaches the correct temp.

XT is a whole different body. DL/GL have manual retracting antenna on the a-pillar. XT has it on the rear fender.

Is is possible to swap a locking AWD center into a DR box? Both are manual 5 speeds.

Auto antennas were on legacys. Ive never seen one on a EA82 car, just manual.

Where are you hearing this noise from? The fuel pump is under the car by the rear wheel well. If you are hearing something in the engine bay, its not the pump. The chime you hear when you turn the key on is seatbelt.