Ionstorm66

I was told the metric belt thing by dealtech in Colorado a long time ago. Could have just been BS to say that they didn't fit from the get go. That car had ice cold AC until the day it was so rusted I was too scared to drive.

They had dealer fitted AC to keep the cars in a smaller tax bracket for import. It's very common on the base models. I've only seen it on DL FWDs.

There there brands of compressors. Hitachi, Panasonic and Denso. If I remember correct the Hitachi was the factory, with Panasonic and Denso being the dealer installed. I had a 89 2WD DL Sedan with that setup. The previous owner had installed a belt from the power steering to the AC only. Which was great, everytime you turned the AC on you lost power steering. Perfect for defrosting in the winter! You have to get an actual metric belt for it to work easily. They are NOA in the states as far as I could tell. I ended up with in size smaller belt. To get it on I pulled the alternator, unbolted the ac compressor. Then put the alternator belt just hanging on the pulleys, then put the ac belt on all 4. Then with some help, bolted the ac compressor up. Then reinstalled the alternator, and tightened up the belts. This lasted 40k+ until I sold it after the 3 speed started acting up.

You can unscrew the switch from the back of the key cylinder, and clean the contacts in there. The starter has its own solenoid, but that still draws 20A peak. This can causes the contacts in the key switch to wear out. Adding a relay removes the high current from the NLA hard to replace key switch, to a cheap relay you can get at any parts store.

Ive seen off road guys split the e-brake to two handles. Let's you lock up a rear tire if it's off the ground, or to turn tighter on a trail.

So the 4 wires in that box are fusible links. One is the main battery feed, one is the alternator, one is the accessory power, and one is the key on power. You can get modern fuses to replace them, as they are prone to failing at this age. The fuses fit perfectly in the stock case. The are FMX style, and I did the conversion for the correct size. They should match the stock link colors, but mine had no wire insulation left when I got it. I would pull all the fuses and links, and then see if there is still current flowing through the switch. Then add them one by one until it goes away. Also you can pull the switch off of the key cylinder and clean the contacts. They are famous for going bad, especially the starter ones. I added a relay inline with my key switch. So no power flows through the key switch itself.

Yep you only adjust the idle screw with the engine warmed up and the IAC unhooked.

Dose the RPM perk up with the AC on? Sounds like a vacuum leak. Also that is odd, I just went and tested, my SPFI Loyale idles fine without the CTS.

That picture is of a GL-10 wagon. It has air suspension and MPFI.

All three cars I have just have the cubby, no trim around the shifters. I have a 88DL, 88GL and a Loyale here, and the shifter boot just goes into the floor. They are all 4wd mt5's

It may of skipped a tooth on the timing belt. You can pull the timing covers and just check both cams if the marks still line up. Try unplugging the CTS, it's the two wire coolant sensor.

I would love to see the actual specs for the tubing, considering that PVC pipe derate is around 90% at under hood temperatures. Flexible PCV would have even more plasticizer than rigid, thus even lower temperature ratings. 200°F is way to high for any PVC tubing.

Where are you seeing spec for the clear hose?

What was the first year they offered 5 speeds?

So I have had terrible luck with any of the 4runner rear struts, they are still bending or blowing out. I have ran the MONROE 71352, KYB 341232 and GABRIEL G51077. The springs I have tried at the API 270470595 cut and uncut, MOOG CC248 and some used Toyotas which were WAY to stiff lol. After about 5-10k miles they have blown all the oil out, with the KYB literally exploding on me. Sounded like a gun shot! I think the issue is im bottoming out the struts while wheeling, as the stock bump stop is too short. I guess I need to find a way to drop the bump stop down some, but I can't seem to be able to remove the stock one. Also might need a stiffer spring. The Accord springs are around 280 lb/in and the toyotas are 595! So I need something in the 350-450 range to make the car not bottom out? The front springs/struts are amazing still, no issues there.

Only impurities coming out of the PVC are already in the oil, unless you are cooking your pistons with timing/power adders. Unless the engine is so clapped out that your rings are shot, there won't be enough blow by to hurt your fuel economy. If there this enough blowby to stop the PVC system from working, then you've already lost any economy increases you could want. The engine is setup to have a metered air flow through the engine from right to left, with baffles in both valve covers to help with oil splashing into the system. You have added resistance to the system, without compensating for this restriction. The engine should run with a slight vacuum in the crankcase at cruise, lower the air resistance inside the motor as well. Also I would love to see the spec on those hoses, I have NEVER seen a clear hose rated for engine bay uses.

For the idle issues check your IAC and make sure its clean. Also check for vacuum leaks.

Yeah standalone is best for a swap. But a stock ecu ej22 will beat any ecu with a ea82t

If it was the IAC it would never rev up to 2K on the start unless the throttle stop was way out. Plus it would keep running if it was just the IAC. Engine will run fine at idle without the MAF. Same with CTS and TPS. Now a MAF/CTS/TPS that is giving out the wrong values can cause it to fail to idle, but unplugging them the engine has a fallback. Unplugging the CTS makes the engine think it's at temperature(90C). Unplugging the MAF+TPS defaults it to a limp setting which is like fast idle. Unplugging the TPS or MAF uses a table to guess the other sensor. Also unplugging them and have the engine run better doesn't rule out that sensor, the limp table is just designed to run the engine without care for power, emissions or milage.

That sounds like fuel pressure. The pump primes up, but then cant keep the pressure up when its running. Will it start back up if you shut the key off and try again? The car will run with almost any vacuum leak, just poorly. I've had the brake booster unplugged and it still started.

For the same as a standalone ECU you could get a EJ22 donor car and the adapter, and the EJ22 will make more power stock than a EA82T will ever make. Plus the EJ22 will do 300K+ miles too boot.

If the vac line off the FPR smells like fuel then you have fuel in the vac system, which is bad. Sounds like a real pain. If your in Tampa I can swing by and take a look next time im out that way. I'm like 2 hours away.

How long does it idle at 2K? It should fast idle until the coolant temp gauge starts moving. Even on a 100F day mine still fast idles on a cold start for a minute or so. Does it hunt for the idle before it dies? AKA rpms surge. Also my personal three "killer" items to check on any EA82s: Make sure the engine grounds are clean. Ground comes from the battery to the starter body. Then from the engine to the harness via a ground point on the intake manifold. Remove both of them and clean the terminal and block where it mates. The one from the battery to the body is usually ok, and not as important for the engine to run. Every EA car I've ever worked on has had terrible grounds. On my personal cars I install a extra ground from the alternator to the battery directly. Check all of the Fusible links. They are fragile, you can replace them with fuses if you have issues.These love to cause the same issues as a bad ground, especially while driving as the vibration moves them around. Last check that the screw is installed and right on the rotor in the distributor. Though the fact it idles without the MAF kind of rules that out, still good to check. I've fixed 2 DOA cars but just reinstalling the screw. Also check that the belt accessories spin smoothly. I had a car that wouldn't idle, turned out the power steering pump had a bad bearing. It didn't make a ton of noise, but the drag killed the car at idle. EA82 doesn't make much power at idle lol.

If you remove the TPS and rotate it gently by hand, will it read correctly? You can pop off the cover to the TPS and check the contacts, but be careful they are fragile from old age.

Unplugging the maf just puts the ecu in the limp table. Dosent only mean a bad MAF. CTS/could be bad, ground could be, wiring could be bad.