Ionstorm66

So I'm in the process of stripping my donor car down. The rear hud/drum are super duper stuck on the axle. Dose the axle have enough inward travel to hammer it into the hub? I feel like I'm going to break the drum if I keep trying to hammer it off. It isn't the pads as I backed the tesnioner off and the drum rotates freely.

How much rotation is too much for a cv joint? I have a few degrees on my rear inners. What to know if that's too much before I degrease and boot them.

So I've had a odd noise from the passenger rear end for a few weeks. Got worst when turning so I checked and repacked both rear wheel bearings. Didn't fix it. So today I went to swap the axles, and found my problem. Car was factory axles, which have a rubber cover over top of the steel straps that hold the cv boots on. Somehow some mud had gotten under it, it was rubbing bottom of the shock! Never would of noticed it, but my spare axles didn't have the cover. Taking a closer look I noticed there was a shiny spot on the outer one. And sure enough shiny spot on the shock.

The valves will float at around 9K rpm, that's about it.

When a master cylinder fails internally its just like a failed cylinder/caliper, you can push the pedal and it gets hard. Then if you keep holding down it will slowly bleed to the floor. This rarely happens because water is heavier than brake fluid, so the water works its way down into the cylinders/calipers. Easy check for air is if the pedal gets hard, but never stiff. You can keep pushing and pushing, the pedal will keep going. With no air, you can flex the firewall before you can get the pedal to the ground. So much so its a common mod on Subaru to brace the master cylinder to the strut. If you have a hill holder it can be a royal pain to bleed. Have to work the clutch while bleeding. I have a pressure bleeder and it still takes a while. You have to do a crisscross: front right, rear left, front left, rear right if I recall

So I'm now 90% sure it was bad oil. Used the same brand and weight today on my change. Now am back up to 30 psi idle 50 cruising, and 60 peak. I'm going to send the oil off to get tested and see what they say. Didn't see any flakes on the oil and never heard anything bad. Also didn't have any super hot weather so that helped.

Probably not recommended, but when I need to remove a pulley in the car. I just loosen the bolt a turn or two, then run the engine for a minute. Usually breaks it free. Out of the car a couple of mallet taps frees it up.

I just installed some boat ones on the dash. Tall cups hit the windshield, but it works. The middle is just too tight for cups, always hit them while shifting. Might work ok with an auto?

If the o-ring I missed in the oil pump leaked, it would then be sealed by the larger part of mickey mouse seal. They both seal the same area. Unless the seal has only failed in the tiny area between the small passages and the main pump area, there is no way for the o-ring to leak pressure without an external leak. Also I'm not missing the o-ring, I just failed to replace it. The oil seals had been replaced before, and the mickey mouse seal was install improperly then causing the leak. It was pinched on one of the small passages. Also the gauge is still on the money as the cold pressure is still at the same spot. It just drops like a rock when warn. Maybe I got bad oil and it's just thin?

It isn't leaking out on the ground, so I doubt that is bad right?

Where is the o-ring? I did the crank, cams and oil pump shaft seals, plus the mickey mouse. I didn't take any orings out of the oil pump, but that could be my issue. Also replaced the water pump because it was leaking. Turns out it was leaking from the gasket, not the shaft. There was a big glob of antiseze in on the gasket surface. Guess I have a spare water pump now, just need a spare gasket.

Mine is less than a pound off. I used to have a electronic sender guage as well, but the dash guage was always accurate, so I removed it. I replaced both seals. I don't think either could leak without leaking externally, which I thankfully don't have anymore. Odd think is the oil pump seal I removed was pinched, and was the source of my growing oil leak. Maybe I f'd up and put the oil pump ring in backwards? Though I'm like 90% sure I had both letters up.

So I resealed the front of the motor because the leaks go so bad. She was smoking like a chimney after getting off the highway! After resealing I seem to have less idle oil pressure, but after reving it's fine. On the gauge it's like barely over idle hot. It use to be 1/4 way up the gauge. If I rev it to 1k it jumps up the 1/4. By 1500 I have 50+.

So replacing the came seals on my newer wagon and it has a odd set of seals. Instead of orings it has like a flared flat seal. I thought it was a super old o-ring, but they are still rubbery and soft. Was this a OE seal?

So I scored a dirt cheap set of ladder racks for a van. Fit on the wagon perfectly. Was about 1/2" from being all the way collapsed. 100% overkill, looks like it's ready to be picked up with a crane or helicopter!

Make sure the timing belt is using the right mark on the flywheel. It's a different mark than the one for timing.

Are you sure the timing belt isn't one tooth off?

Doesn't matter how clean the car looks, they are always rusted under the damn mud flaps! There is literally only 2 visible rust spots on this car. A 1/4" spot under the rear window, and a scratch on the roof, but there are holes under all of the flaps. The rears have fist size holes! I can reach in and change the washer pump lol.

You talking about the rollers? The whole window is getting scratched so it's not the rollers.

So all of my window seals on the doors are old and scratch the glass. I have buffed the windows once, but I'd like to figure something out before I do it again.

Odd every one ive seen in a junk yard has had caps on the evap. Maybe it was a per dealer thing? I'm in the south so they may of ordered them with the inside AC parts.

I only know third gens, but all of them came with the dash parts. Evap was just capped at the firewall. They also had the air con button, it just didnt no anything. The dealer air had the compressor on the outside by the battery, with the alternator on the inside. Made it impossible to change the spark plugs on that side without lifting up the ac compressor, huge pain. Same with trying to change valve cover gaskets.

So I pulled the pulley off my parts car and it fits way better. Wonder if my other pulley was way over tightened causing it to spread open?

If it's adjusted correctly, and so is the clutch, it will never get in the way. The clutch should release fully within half the pedal travel. The hill holder should only engage in the last 1/4 of travel. This leaves you with almost half the travel with the clutch released before the hill holder. Never ran into a issue with the holder other than it dosent work nose down for reversing up hill.

The AC belt fits like a champ, and I'm running the belts the manual calls for. I think it's a bag alternator pulley. The rest of the pulleys fit it fine. A V belt should right on the sides not the bottom. If they ride on the bottom it wears the sides off, which will eventually cause it to slip.