Ionstorm66

I can't seem to keep a alternator belt for more than 5-10k miles. They burn up and drop down into the v so much they slip. It's a factory AC car and I replaced the AC belt when I got it over 40k ago. AC belt looks mint. I can't see any wobble or damage to the alternator pulley and it looks aligned. Is it possible I'm over tightening the alternator?

A set of portals will be harder on the suspension than a lift, and you already bend struts with lifts. Side by sides have way better suspension setups that a EA82.

Did you look at the price before you posted? For 3-4 grand you could pay some one to do a ej22 swap and a 4+ inch lift with big tires. Maybe even a dual range.

Is the GL-10 rack the same as a normal rack? I don't think anyone rebuilds them anymore for sale. A local shop might be able to rebuild it, or find a good used unit.

That is a EA82

The crank angle sensor in the dizzy rarely goes bad, and I can't imagine both were bad. Is the rotor spinning? Sounds like a timing belt to me. Next would be to make sure the coil bracket is grounded, there is a transistor on the bracket that fires the coil and uses the bracket for ground.

As only as there isnt belt hanging off the back of the pulley its fine. On cheaper belts I've had to flip them to get it to ride well, because they arent square.

Then the dust cover is warped. The idler looks find, that's how they sit on the belt. I took my covers off and used a heat gun and flattened them back out.

Kind of odd to require a steel plate to attach two aluminum parts together. As long as there is enough thickness for proper thread engagement.

I use blue rtv on mine and never had an issue. Once two surfaces with rtv touch, you want to let it set a bit before tightening. So I put rtv on the pump and put the gasket on. Let that set up for the time it says on the tube. Then apply rtv to the engine side, and place the pump on and torque down.

Red, white, black shielded on a SPFI is the air flow meter. It should be throwing a code related to that. Possible it fed 12V back though the signal wire and fried the input on the ECU or the sensor. I would check the voltages at the sensor. With the key on you should have 12V on red, 0V on black, and half a volt on the white wire. Blowing some air though the sensor should make the voltage rise.

Is it rubbing the dust cover?

It's for dropping the manual transmission crossmember. Everything one fits in one place. Just take it slow and don't force anything. Watch for brake lines, they will be at their limit trying to install a 4 inch kit. Also first step should be removing the shroud from the radiator.

They are ethier the rear axle drop or the front sub frame. The steel dose one and the alloy dose the other.

Just to add they are plain jane 2.2K thermistors in side. If you look up a chart for one they match right up with the values for sensor.

TBO they are so easy to change when the engine is clean, it isn't worth waiting untill they leak.

So the old wagons came with rear cargo lights in the hatch area. It lists as the same part as a first gen Forester. Part number 84671GA011 Anyone try to install one into a Loyale? I doubt there is the wiring, but I would imagine the mount is there.

I just looked up the part number Chrome: Precision WKT 499 C Black: Precision WKT 499 B

Dupli-Color Vinyl and Fabric Coating in Medium Blue. Got it at O'Reilly's. I just scotch brited them and washed with soap. I'm really amazed at how well it stuck. I plan on doing the dash pad in place.

Here is the mirror trim. You can't even tell the color is off with the vinyl next to it. Original color:

So my dash is extremely sun beaten and a few other parts I've replaced because the blue was cracked. My parts car has great plastics but it's brown. So I decided to give this paint/dye stuff a try. The color on the can cap was way off, but the end product is so close once it's all done you won't be able to tell. I put 2 coats on both parts and after 4 hours of drying I can't scratch it off with a finger nail or plastic trim tool Left is the painted and right is the original with the cap: Original with painted next to it: Painted one installed: The under side of the painted one:

Yeah the Beck and OE come with almost to much grease I filled the cups before putting the balls in. It filled the outers to the brim, and the inners over half way. Put some on the balls as I assembled them, and added some on the outside after they were in the cup. I had so much it was pushing out the boots as I installed them. Also mine were definitely rebuilt OE axles. There were hammer marks were someone missed trying to take the outers apart. Everything seemed good other than a single ball on the inner cv seems smaller than the rest. Will see how they last. My passenger side is Subaru and drivers is Beck. Not that fair as the passenger side gets all the heat. Also dear god dose it make a mess! I went though 4 sets of gloves an axle, plus 20+ paper towels, and 1/2 gallon of diesel to wash them.

Can't really over tighten them as they are a shouldered bolt that you bottom out into the head. They have gotten some soap and water cleaning the engine bay. The passenger side got degreaser when the axle blew a boot, but the drivers are just as bad.

I have been having issues with valve cover grommets. I replaced them when I did the valve cover gaskets last year. Was felpro set that included grommets. Those lasted about 3 months and started cracking. I replaced them with the ones out of my Apex engine gasket set. They lasted about 2 months. I then ordered the Beck Arnley grommets and after 6 months they are cracking. None of them have leaked, but if the are splitting they aren't far from leaking. I ordered some of the $4 a pop Subaru grommets and I'll see how they hold up.

Looks like the opposite of my poor 120K EA82. I think it has more oil changes after I got it, then before. You could scratch off the sludge with a finger nail. These pics were after I did 2 engine flushes on it. I didn't get any before picks because my hands were too dirty.