Ionstorm66

Never worked on a carbed EA, but it looks like the wires for an electric choke. They have a coil inside that heats up with 12v, and it opens the choke as it heats up. That way the choke stays on longer in the cold, and shorter in the heat. Also you get no choke on hot starts.

Also not to mention the bearings are sealed. The weep hole goes between the 2 sets of bearings. So dirt and grime getting into the weep hole dose nothing for the bearings unless the bearings are already shot. The weep hole let's you know the water seal has failed and water is being pushed though the seals on the inner bearing. Only way they would be failing at 20K is if you had a bad fan or v belt causing vibration. The weep hole would have nothing to do with that.

So I got the OE boots in the mail as well as the Becks. They are much thicker than the Dorman, but not as stretchy. The Beck and OE look the same, and both came with circlips. Also they came with easily twice as much grease as the Dorman.

That will do it. I always pull the boot back, insert the the wire into the cap, then slide the boot down.

Yep I use the offbrand ones on beaters, and real ones on nice things. Also some 8-10 AWG weatherpacks for high current are nice to have. Also lots of OEM connectors can be repined, but finding the pins can be hard. Google can find them most of the time.

I installed the Dorman silicone boots. They are thicker than the normal Dorman, and about the same as the OE. I figured the silicone boots might be a better rubber. Plus as idosubaru said, a brick and mortar nationwide parts store will be the best for warrenty exchange.

I got a tracking number so I'll see Monday I guess.

Mine is 4WD. They gave me 2.5 inchs of lift with the cut. 3.75 uncut. Its a lot of lift actually. I need to do the fronts to see how level it ends up being. The cart drives like a DREAM loaded now. I have 500# of tools in the back, and now it never even gets close to bottoming out. Where before I would bottom out going over the tiny bumps. Also with the cut you can install the springs without a compressor, which is extremely handy, as it was a royal pain to install the uncut ones. I had to hammer in and out my compressor, as it was too big to fit between the coils when it was installed on the strut. With the spring cut you can put some force on the strut mount and start the nut easily.

Check that the timing belts are lined up. There are TWO sets of timing marks on the fly wheel. You have the have the distributor side off, because it will fire up without the other side.

The contacts in the key switch are probably dirty. You can pull switch and clean them. It is very common to add a relay inline to take the current. Just cut the starter solenoid wire a few inches from the starter. Use it to trigger the relay coil, and ground the other end of the coil. Connect the starter end of the solenoid wire to one contact of the relay, and the other contact to a wire going to the battery connection on the starter. This way the key switch only passes enough current to trigger the relay.

A simple check is to take the fan resistors out and see if they are packed. That will also let you look in at the fan/evap. Easier to remove than the fan.

All the air is coming out of the defroster? That's where the system blows when it has no vacuum. Make sure the lines are hooked up correctly the heater control, the hoses and control has numbers. Make sure you have vacuum at the heater controls.

Never had a diode issue, where is it located? By the relays?

Yeah until I get replacements I used a pair of oe castle nuts stacked and blue loctite.

My issue is I can get the Beck ones in a day or two from Amazon, getting oem takes ages to ship, and the closest dealer is 2+ hours.

So I got my spare axle in the car and when I went to tighten my tie rod end, the threads in the nuts stripped out. I just installed it about 2 months ago, and this is only the first time I've had it off. I thought it was odd that they had nylon lock nuts and not castle nuts. At least if it had a castle nut, the pin would keep the nut from coming off if the hit stripped. https://youtu.be/kDfE9IB5CWU

The ribbed one is off my 92 Loyale. The nonribbed is off a 86 GL-10. Both are NA 5MT 4WDs. The GL-10 has 200K+ miles so I don't think they are factory, as the boots have no cracks. Mine is right under 140K so I think those are factory. What are good boots to use? I order some the Beck boots online, and picked up the dorman universals locally. The Dormans are the same boot, but the inner is silicone.

So I have my car and a parts car. Both match side to side, but they don't match each other. Left is parts car, right is mine.

Yeah check here: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/171596-upper-rear-differential-bushing/

I was ordering a windshield molding set for my new windshield. JEGs has them for $18.99? The normal list price is over $100! I ordered 2 of them just to have a spare at that price. Update: Got them in and they look great. Definitely the right part. Chrome: Precision WKT 499 C Black: Precision WKT 499 B Listed Applications: 1985 - 1989 Subaru - DL 1985 - 1989 Subaru - GL 1990 - 1994 Subaru - Loyale

The labor is reinstalling so everything is exactly where it belongs, and nothing creaks or squeaks. 10 hours is about what it takes to do the job.

All EA81/82 are R12 compressors. The compressor will run R134a with the correct oil. You will have to change the seals in the hoses to match the oil. It won't be as cold as R12. Good luck working on the system though. Almost all the parts and hoses are NLA.

To add to the roll pin, they don't take much to remove. So if it take more than a tap or two to start moving, try the other side. I always paint marker the side to knock it out of when I install them.

Is there a good way to tell if an axle is a subaru/ntn axle from looking at it?

I've replaced all the hoses and I rebuilt the intake manifold last year after an injector o-ring died. Possible I messed up the gasket, would explain why I can't find the leak. It's such a slow leak I don't see any smoke. The radiator looks good, I can't see any coolant residue on it. I'm just worried it's the heater core, so I keep looking for something in the engine bay to blame it on lol.