lichen

You are correct, assuming anything is stupid of me. I was assuming it to be a sensor, but it does have 250k miles on the clock and the timing hasn't been done for 50k. I'll start with that next.

It's not the timing, amd the fuel filter appears to be clear.

Wife drove her brother to the airport, and they fueled up on the way. Within ten miles after fuelling (had less than 1/4 tank before), the car shuddered and sputtered, in heavy stop&go traffic, and finally died right at the same gas station they filled up at. I sprayed the MAF sensor with cleaner, and found a spare purge solenoid and replaced it. Little to no difference. I'm pretty sure it's a sensor issue but I don't have a code reader and it won't run so I'm stuck. We had it towed to where I work so after work I have time to work on it. I got it to run yesterday, got it up to 4k rpm and then let it run there for a minute, and it died when I let off. Sometimes it will start but choke and die when I step on the throttle. It has also backfired a few times. Any ideas?

Thanks, got the swap done, and looks like everything is okay. Swap was easy, bolted right in. Took the covers off, counted the gear teeth, everything's a match.

Bump

Hi, guys, I am trying to find out if I can take the rear differential out of my 2000 Forester (auto) and install it in the 1997 Outback (also auto).

Took out rear driveline, seems to drive okay now. Thanks, guys!

Is it okay to remove the rear driveline on the torque-bound Outback?

Thanks for the info, guys. You've already said a lot I didn't know. I was using my smartphone to make that post, and it's tedious. Now I'm on a computer keyboard, so it's a lot better. I was comparing the three cars because I'm just trying to figure things out. Now: If the ratios are different between auto and manual in the rear differentials, then that's why I have gear binding. I don't know how much damage there might be in the transmission, but my main question is this: Is there a way I can permanently disable the rear differential and make it a front wheel drive car? For example, can I simply remove the rear drive shaft? My secondary question is this: Why is my 1995 L wagon fwd only when it features a rear differential? Interesting side note: I replaced all the struts/springs on the '95 L (which came equipped with 13" wheels), with the suspension components off the Outback, so I could put 15" wheels on it. Everything bolted straight in, and it looks like an Outback now.

Hey guys, thank you for all your helpful tips in the past. And now I have another question. My '95 Legacy has a rear diff and drive shafts just like my '98 Outback, but it's only front-wheel drive. There is a fuse passenger side firewall that links a 'fwd' light in the instrument cluster. Light goes out when fuse is removed. Outback has the same fusible link, but when I plug in a fuse, no 'fwd' light appears. The Outback has some kind of binding issue in the drivetrain. The rear diff was ruined because I put too small a donut tire on driver side rear. I replaced rear diff, and it was fine for a week, then the passenger side rear axle slipped out while wife was driving. It slipped back in for me but when I drove it away, within 10 miles I knew I had another problem on my hands. Felt like a 4x4 truck locked in on dry pavement and turning tight circles, sort of.. 2 things: I bought new tires for it, but they're different brands. 2 are the same, the other 2 are different from each other and from the two that are the same. I ran a tape round the circumference of each and discovered a 3/4" difference between smallest and largest. If my calcs are right, this amounts to roughly 1/2 of 1% of diameter difference. Might that have caused drive train gear damage? I took the differential out of a standard-tranny '98 Outback to replace the differential in the auto-tranny 98' Outback. I checked the gear ratio with chalk marks on wheels and driveline. The axles are the type that don't have spring pins to pin them in place. You seat them, and that's it. I do not understand how the one slipped out. Main question: Is there a way to disable the AWD on this (automatic) Outback so only the front wheels are drivewheels? To essentially make it a fwd car rather than awd?

It turned out to be the cv joint and wheel bearing front driver side.

Yes, it turns smoothly in tight circles. The tranny mount is half-intact.

driveshaft joint look normal.

Hey guys, I have an issue with my 1998 Forester: It has been wobbling under load more and more over the last few weeks, but I assumed I had a wheel out of balance and figured I would get around to it soon enough. So yesterday, I took it for a spin after replacing the fuel inlet tube, and discovered that pretty well anywhere from start off to 60mph it now has this horrid clunking shimmy. I jacked it up and discovered two things. 1) A loose motor mount bolt, and 2) A broken transmission mount. I tightened the motor mount bolt and took it out again. It's worse now, if anything. Further inspection revealed some play in driver front wheel bearing and bad rubber in the steering stabilizer mounts or torsion bars or whatever they are. Also torn boots on one cv joint and steering components. But I can't see anything that should account for what is happening. Any ideas?

It was a hose to the MAFS, thanks,guys. Runs perfectly now.

1998 legacy outback, cooked the seal retainer cap/welded it to exhaust cam. Took head out, burned #1 cylinder exhaust valve replaced&milled head. New head gasket and belt and tensioner +new cam seals and crank seal. Couldn't get the motor mounts in, (rocky ground and long day), so tried shortcut. Started engine, thought rocking a bit would bring the engine forward a quarter inch. Engine dies. Repeat. Maybe it won't run w/out exhaust manifold bolted up?

1998 legacy outback, cooked the seal retainer cap/welded it to exhaust cam. Took head out, burned #1 cylinder exhaust valve replaced&milled head. New head gasket and belt and tensioner +new cam seals and crank seal. Couldn't get the motor mounts in, (rocky going and long day), so tried shortcut. Started engine, thought rocking a bit would bring the engine forward a quarter inch. Engine dies. Repeat. Maybe it won't run w/out exhaust manifold bolted up?

Oil level was good...

Found it. Should have known. The valve train on that side is damaged. Cam won't turn. Sorry, guys, I got it!

Here's the story. I hear a squalling bearing as I'm travelling 65mph. I slow to 55, noise stops. One mile later, the engine dies. Tow home, open timing case, lo and behold, the lower passenger-side cam sprocket is just-- gone! It's shattered into five pieces. How is this possible?

Took the timing belt off, and discovered the idler pulleys are shot. In fact, one of them -the toothed one- was completely destroyed and all its bearings scattered. No idea how we made it home last night. Now I just have to remember how to handle the timing...if I put a pencil in the no.1 cylinder while the cam sprockets are set @ tdc and run the piston up to top, I think I should be good to go. Is that right?

Sorry for the lack of clarity. I replaced the TPS, but since I still don't understand how to use my multimeter, I'm uncertain if it is adjusted right. I'm working on that. This morning, it won't start at all. During the trip home last night, there was a bad bearing sound and I think it may be a timing belt idler pulley so that could help me understand why it won't start. Maybe the timing slipped a few teeth. I suppose if the timing were off it could affect how the transmission works as well as the performance of the engine?

Got a shifting issue...no clue. It's sluggish starting out and lacks power, and it just developed today. The TPS I the other day but I'm uncertain how to tell if it is adjusted right because I don't understand how to use my multimeter. Help!

The stop screw is rusted so that I cannot identify any paint or any other reliable reference marks. I did manage to get the idle down to 2k simply by forcing the throttle closed with my hand and it feels sluggish so I wonder if it's a lube issue.

Thank you, hopefully in the morning I can use this information to improve things. I appreciate it.