lichen

I notice it seems to be adjustable, and can be turned. It was twisted all the way to the right, or clockwise. So, when I put the new one in, I put it the same. Then I experimented a little, loosening the screws and turning it So the idle slowed. But when I went to test drive it, I found out that it now has no power. So I put it back, but I really don't know what I'm doing

Just bought a 97 outback...changed out the throttle position sensor but it didn't seem to help. Suggestions?

I got it!!! It was so simple, I was trying to make it complex, and I was using the TDC notch on the crankshaft pulley and the zero mark on the cover, its amazing I didn't bend up the valves.

Apparently, I got the timing wrong the first time because afterword, the engine lacked power and idled rough. So I'm trying it again. Book says use compression tester. Don't think there's time to to take out all that plugs today and I'm trying it again...can anyone phone me?

Yep that's for sure.

I have no clue how many miles on the belt. It looks pretty new.

Actually I'm doing this initially to replace a can seal that sprung a leak. Its a '98, 2.5 Legacy Outback. I finally got the gauge to show pressure by cranking it more quickly and the previously made marks are all lined up now so I think I'm okay to proceed.

I am trying to find tdc by hand-cranking the engine but not getting any pressure. Cranking with the starter motor shows 90lbs. Maybe I don't have the pressure gauge seated properly? Or is there a better way to do it without lifting the engine? I need to replace the timing belt and camshaft seals. What if I paint a bunch of marks on the belt and just put the belt back on using those? And not worry about tdc? I know that's probably not a good idea. The half-tooth thing when I am putting on the new belt will probably get me in trouble. Any advice??

Okay, I tried the key-turning sequence, to no avail...but then I disconnected the battery, waited a minute, turned the key to the ON position, reconnected the negative cable, and voila! Success! Thanks so much, I was at a loss.

I will try those and get back to you here, thanks so much!

So I bought a couple of outbacks, a 1997 automatic with 338k and a 1998 standard with 165k and a blown head gasket. We fixed up the auto, sold it, and now I just finished the head job on the 1998, fired it up, took it for a run, and noticed the running lights are flashing. A mechanic friend says it might be an issue with the security system. We don't have a key fob for it, and I don't know anything about automobile security systems. Help!

It's torque converter clutch solenoid electrical. Do I need to take it to a transmission specialist to have it serviced, or after checking the fluid, is there something further that I can do myself? Thank you.

Okay so the CEL is on in the 1997, and the code is this: Torque converter solenoid open Torque converter solenoid-electrical Any ideas on what this means and how I can fix it? Thanks

Man! I would just keep running it...they're such good cars. And who cares? soon all parts are new! why not?

Yes, I know...the tires were all in pretty good shape, so I think it's within the 1/4" tolerance, thank you for the input. fingers crossed isn't the smartest way to go, but here they are

Golden is good...getting the new tire today.

Wow, 89 horsepower! I didn't know it was that strong...lol

Our 93 legacy sedan had 348,000 on it, the previous owner overheated it, and I replaced the haed gaskets, then it ran great til I hit a cow in the dark...overheated it getting home, banged her back together in the driveway, did another head job, but failed to replace the timing belt tensioner so it slipped, and then decided to buy another 2.2 with only 90,000 on it, and it runs great but has other issues. Our 1997 outback has 336,000 miles, but 30,000 ago they replaced the 2.5 with a 2.2. It ran great till my son ran it off the road joyriding. Hope to iron out the details tomorrow. My dodge cummins has 346,000 miles on it, and the engine runs great, but other issues keep creeping up on me with that...going to just keep fixing it.

So my son decided to take the car out for a joyride and wound up going off the road 'a little'. Next day, wife and kid call me from the store 4 miles away, something's 'wrong with the tire'. What? So I throw the floor jack in the truck and head out, meet em halfway, and here's the passenger side front tire canted about 25 degrees to the driver's side at the top. I jack it up, and lo! here is the strut all bent outta shape. And we were trying to sell it. It's a nice car. So I removed the thing, fixed up the damage as best I could (have to get a new tire) and made sure to align the mark I made on the camber bolt the way it was. The ABS bracket wound up on the lower bolt though cuz I was tired and didn't want to take the upper bolt out again. Should I do this, or is it okay on the lower bolt? I assume it's probably okay. The real question is, did this event likely bend the frame, too? I guess I will find out tomorrow if it drives like it did before. Thoughts?

Well, thanks for all that. I don't know why I didn't think to use the impact wrench, that's obvious. And I also forgot to set the engine to top dead center before I took off the belt...that's an ameteur mistake I've made several times before. Good thing it doesn't really matter. I went to Autozone this morning because the employee guy on the phone said they had one--it turned out to be a pulley puller instead. So I improvised and bought a chain wrench--$20--and figured I'd use a piece of the old belt to cushion the pulleys. Turns out this engine has cam sprockets that aren't steel, they're some kind of fiber resin stuff and scratch easily.o and don't recall Thanks for all your thoughts. I'm not a professional mechanic, obviously, and I've just sort of been improvising all my life. But a couple things that were said here are interesting. Ivan said 'are you sure' I need to resurface the heads? I don't know for sure but I know the aluminum heads are prone to warping and I assume one of them is. I don't trust either my eye or my steel rule to tell me for sure if either head is warped. So I intend to simply take them to town and have them milled to make sure. I have another question for you guys...the only subaru engines I have experience with are the SOHC types--primarily the 2.2; I did some work on another one years ago, not sure which one it was. It was in a really gutless 1986 wagon. But the 1993 sedan legacy we've had for several years, I've had to redo the head gaskets twice and the timing four times for various reasons, and I have always really admired the fact they engineered it to be a non-interferance engine. I love that, cuz if the timing belt blows or slips--no damage. Does anyone here know if the 2.5 DOHC in this outback is a non-interferance engine as well?

It looks like a large socket is needed where a socket/extension can be inserted thru the center. Hold the large socket with a large adjustible wrench, and loosen the cam bolt. I guess.

Hello, everyone, I'm new to the forum here...I have a 1998 Outback, 2.5 DOHC, blown head gasket (presumably!) and I need the special tool for removing the camshaft sprockets. Is this a dealer-only item, or will I find it at Autozone?