Sweet82

My point was the original gas tank will fit snugly over the diff because of it's contoured shape. This will allow you to drop it quite a bit (way lower than the plans). I also dropped my front/hood by 6" to allow better visibility. There was no reason to have the front that high.

I set my buggy up so the suspension and the shocks bottom out at the same point. I though about limiting straps but they're just not needed. My goal was to keep the CV angle close to the original angle. The problem is when you don't know the finish (rear) weight, its hard to calculate the angle of the CV in advance. I used Bug Pack (dune buggy) coil over adjustable shocks so I could tune the height and ride. I've used them with and without the coils and have not noticed much difference.

You could use the original gas tank in the original position. This would still give you clearance and you would get a ton of storage in the back end. Trust me, storage is important in a tube frame buggy. I put the tank in the original position and added a back seat in that area. You should still have around 2 feet of clearance between the chassis and the ground.

I removed the, Engine, Tranny, Suspension, Struts, Wheels & tires as one unit. I cut from the strut towers down to the frame and removed the front of the car. Then I used an engine hoist to pull the whole thing out the front as a unit. I lowered the tube frame onto the engine assembly. Took about 20 minutes to install. Good Luck!

1982 Subaru Hatch Owned for 25 years. Mods; New body Welded diff Reinforced diff hanger Steel skid plate Split park brakes 26X12X12 Dirt Devil ATV tires Custom rims 630w shining forward 100w shining backwards Full street lighting 2000# winch with block Trailer hitch Luggage rack Heater Glove box Makeup mirror Rear view mirror Sun visors Dome light Tilt wheel Full instrument panel Seat belt chime Power ports Fire extinguisher CB radio Self rescue equipment:grin: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=54 Subarus are great!

I went with a 26X12X12 Dirt Devil because it was a 6 ply and not too big. I'd be careful about going too big on tire size because you'll loose your gearing. The next set I get may be 25's? There is a frame brace that will be in the way with your tire selection. It goes at an angle from the chassis area to the motor frame rails. I had to move it twice and I still hit it when I put the buggy hard on one front wheel. See attachment.

I did custom rims. Wasn't expensive. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=54 Works well, saves having to get an adapter and then rims too.

Way cool another Rhino! Its looking good, the easy part is the tube frame. The hard part is all the details once you have the rolling chassis. Rhino is somewhat vague/non existent when it comes to explaining anything past the frame assembly. The Steering box needs to be reversed and its not as easy as it sounds! What are you going to do for tires? You may find tire problems if you follow the plans exactly. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=54 Good luck, Glenn

Really nice work, Pics, pics, pics! I love documented builds!

They are not street legal in Utah:mad: I'd assume you'd be able to register it as a farm vehicle but not for street.

I'd think they still would (still sell them) but they don't advertise them anymore. It would cost them virtually nothing to copy and send. All your going to get is 50 sheets of paper and one color pic. The plans will only cover the chassis/frame build up, nothing after that! Your instruction will end when the metal is assembled. No instruction is included on any of the finish work. The frame can be made in two weeks, the finish work will take two months. Good Luck,

What!!! You mean plugs, wires, cap and rotor didn't fix it:confused: Something must be seriously wrong if that didn't cure all your problems. That's the magic fix for these cars.

I gauged my arm rests to a can of coke for the same reason. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=439&cat=500&perpage=12&sort=3&ppuser=584 Good Luck, Glenn

My Forester is considered a Truck in any Autoparts Store. :confused: I don't get it...

You'll never regret having the cargo rack. Unlike cars, Buggies have little storage space. Just finding space for a jack, or spare is tough. Adding space for a cooler, some drink holders, maps, straps, shovel, compressor and tools and spare parts is nearly impossible. Keeping it all dry is worse. ...and now back to the build...:popcorn:

What would you use them for? Front wheel drive turns the vehicle fairly well. Locking your diff will give you all the traction you want but you can't use split brakes with that setup. With the Subaru Front wheel park brake it makes more sence to split the front rather than the rear. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13634&cat=500&perpage=12&sort=3&ppuser=584 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6003&cat=500&perpage=12&sort=3&ppuser=584 This system works as traction control for the front wheels.

Welcome to the board! My bar came from the dealer, back when the car was new. I think they used whatever they had laying around the shop to bolt it on. They never did bolt it to the bumper! They just bolted it at the tow hooks and that's it. Go to Home Depot and get-r-done! Good Luck, Glenn

Uhhhhmmm! If we could keep the conversation to a minimum, we could all hear what's going on!!! Excuse me that's my cell phone...... Hello.... ...Yes, for the windshield, I used Lexan and put a molding around the edge and a foam weather seal tape against the metal. I clean it carefully and so far have not replaced it. I'll call you back later.... I want to get back to the build.:popcorn:

Quiet up front! I'm tryin to watch this build. :popcorn:

I went with 26X12X12 for off-road and 27" for dirt roads. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=11728&cat=500&perpage=12&sort=3&ppuser=584 Not much difference between the two in height. Both of these are too big for the stock Subie gearing. I went with the 27" only because there is very little choice in dirt tires smaller than 27". I went with the 26X12X12 because they are 6ply. I may drop a size when these wear out? In a Subie, I'll take gearing over clearance any day.

I considered building this one, Rhinobuggys "Hummbug", but I didn't want to fabricate all the panels for the body. It has the same frame as the "Bandit" that I built/stretched. The only difference is the body. The frame portion is square steel, only the body is round tube. I think you could easily build the tube portion in a couple weeks just working evenings & weekends. My buddys made me use rock crawler quality steel, so it could have been lighter? But it ain't gonna break! Rage on Scott!

I second the Utah!

Post this brochure:popcorn: We wanna see!

Max and Summer are different individuals. Max spends the winters outside braving the elements under the cover of snow. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=7437&cat=500&perpage=12&sort=3&ppuser=584 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=20054&cat=500&perpage=12&sort=3&ppuser=584 Summer spends most of the time in a garage under a nice warm dust cover. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13825&cat=500&perpage=12&sort=3&ppuser=584 I'm sure Mad Max's problem is simple. I'll have to check the back of the inst. cluster for crusties? Thanks, Glenn

I visited Max this weekend to get to the bottom of the no volt issue. Suspecting I might run into "resistance", I came armed with jumper cables, battery charger, battery tester, battery terminal cleaner and a cheap Harbor Freight Alt. tester. After some work and swearing, Max came to life and ran fine, but still no volts on the meter. Apparently the alt is working just fine (according to HF). Max seems happy and enjoyed some much needed excersize. Is there anything easily done to make a volt meter work again? Where do I begin...