subnz

Failing universal joints on rear drive shaft usually cause vibration, particularly noticible at 45 -50 mph as you mentioned, so check both front and rear joints for side play and also check carrier bearing on drive shaft as well.

If its not the wheel bearings, it could be the carrier bearing (if there is one ) on the rear drive shaft.

Failing bearings in diffs whine continuously -- the whine increasing in pitch and volume as speed increases. Worn diffs still whine not being driven so disconnecting the driveshaft / FWD fuse may not isolate the whine - it may lessen it. You have answered that question by being on or off the throttle and and not making a difference to the whine. If its the rear diff, the whine will be obviously coming from the rear. And front diff whine from front. Agree also - failing universal joints etc in drive shafts vibrate - most noticable at a constant 55 / 60 mph - maybe less noticable on a trailing throttle decelerating (under engine braking) - balancing changes due to side play / wear in joints

If its not a fuel issue then, after investigating the obvious - fuel filters /gauzes fuel pump / pressure etc. Then agree it could be a hi tension leads (ignition) issue. These can break down under load and performance becomes progressively worse when these get warmer / engine approaching running temperature. (when failing) Have had two different vehicles that have done this ie failing leads / coil (not Subarus) Another thing to consider is carburetor icing. Is the diaphragm operated flap on the air cleaner intake working correctly? ie to pick up warm air when required to prevent icing. Was the vacuum line reconnected /air temp sensor? If it has a manual summer / winter flap lever on air cleaner intake, try setting it to winter position. This is what my 87 Brumby (Brat) has. That diverts air intake off engine - warmer air to prevent icing. Icing Symptoms: jerking, surging, loss of power, getting worse as more throttle applied, coming to a stop - another type of fuel starvation. This could explain the momentary improvement after stopping with the heat in engine bay melting icing

IF guideline are followed regarding cooling system maintenance for EA82s - as stated in owners /service manuals. EVERY 2 YEARS - change coolant . remove radiator hoses , and heater hoses at firewall to flush out heater core as well (with garden hose) Flush radiator and engine separately as well with garden hose. replace thermostat / radiator cap if necessary. If these guidelines / recommendations are followed then there should be few if any issues. Both my 2 ea82s had cooling system issues and it was due to neglect / lack of maintenance from previous owners. As these are prone to overheating and consequently blowing headgaskets (particularly EA82T with extra heat generated with turbo) if regular maintenance is overlooked / neglected.

I would assume that because the of the position and the firing of the spark plugs from the top - the thrust side would be on the bottom for all bores / pistons. But not sure considering the clockwise rotation thing and the difference between left and right sides , if any ???? I would still position the ring gaps as per the diagrams as we have previously discussed in the manuals. None of the gaps are are positioned directly near the bottom or top sides. 30 degrees below / above the centre line (either side ) is far enough away from the thrust areas, top or bottom, in my considered opinion. /

Looked at my Gregorys manual for EA82 and the diagram there, for piston ring gap position was similar to the second diagram (above) that you posted. ie the 2 compresion ring gap positions - both 30 degrees below centre line - left for top and right for second. and the 2 side rail gaps for oil ring at 30 degrees above centre line - left for top and right for bottom side rail. The top (1st) diagram that you posted are the ring gap positions for the EA81 according to Gregorys manual also

Agree also if not a fuel issue or not a blocked cat. It could be a coil / distributor / leads etc issue. If it runs ok when cold then gets progressively worse when up to running temperature and when under load (hills) Look at coil (these can break down and fail under load and when warm also with intermitant random inconsistant misfires ) and also look at obvious stuff like rotor / distributor cap / and all 5 high tension leads - to spark plugs and coil to distributor and low tension wiring / distributor module etc High tension leads can break down under load causing misfiring getting worse under load and when warm / hot (like failing coils also), particularly if old or are of cheap replacement quality.

Radiators work by transfering heat from water / air / refridgerant that was hot in the first place that needed cooling. Their surface area with airflow is for dissapating heat away -They don't work well in reverse. Most roof mounted solar heating systems use long lengths of black hose coiled back as forth to create surface area to induce heating.

Agree anything with a phase 1 EJ 2.2 (non interference) engine with a manual transmission. If I had bought a Legacy of that age ie 90 - 95 it would have been 2.2 GX manual D/R Wagon (available here in NZ) These here have a good reputation for longevity. But Legacy low ride height made me keep my 86 GL wagon till 2009 when structural rust around windscreen put it off the road (regular 6 monthly compliance road testing for older cars strict on rust here in NZ) Then bought 1st Outback.

Still have breaker points distributor and original hitachi carb on 87 EA81 Brumby (Brat). Can't be bothered changing either because they both work fine.

Completely original and clean vehicles should always and can bring the highest prices. As soon as they are modified from original (including repowering with larger later engines) the price should come down accordingly. You only have to look at the original unmodified American classic car values market as an example.

Agree check T belt timing - there should be one cam sprocket with mark at the top and the other cam sprocket with its mark at bottom (180 degrees of difference with crank on its timing mark. If it still doesn't run it is also possible that the distributor could be 180 degrees out of phase with engine or also agree leads connected up in the incorrect firing order.

Agree keep engine between 3000 - 4000rpm for cruise best for power / economy / longevity. Most modern Japanese OHC 4 cylinders engines need a minimum of 3000rpm before they start to work properly ie start developing reasonable torque / hp. Have had two EA82s. EA81 OHV (old school tech dating back to steam engine) need less rpm to do the same thing ie best between 2500 - 3500rpm. Have had 2 still have one of them - bomb proof simplicity / reliability so long as don't over rev them.

What is the exhaust pressure like at tail pipe? Put your hand over tail pipe briefly while engine idling , to get an idea of exhaust pressure - should feel strong even pulses for each cylinder firing. Have done this in the past to diagnose / feel / listen for valve problems as well ie burnt out failing exhaust valves.

Agree that there could be an internal coolant leak via a tired headgasket into a combustion chamber and coolant consumed out the exhaust. Had an EA82 that did this. Agree, Fluorescent dye in coolant and use of a fluorescent light will confirm this (on exhaust tail pipe) - or if the leak is elsewhere. Recently another member on this forum had this similar issue with a Forester XT confirmed with fluorescent dye use / light. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/165851-loosing-coolant-leak-or-burning/ If there are leaks with radiator etc there should be some evidence of coolant colouring in the location of the leak despite it being evaporated. Head gasket failure can happen with older cars also particularly if they haven't had a good history of regular oil/filter and coolant changes

Failure to follow simple guide lines / recommendations in owners manual. Failure to fix things when warning signs are given. What kills Subaru engines 1 failure to check oil level regularly / change oil / filter at required intervals (dependant on use /season) 2 failure to check coolant level regularly (including taking off radiator cap and looking in there too) 3 failure to change coolant / flush cooling system every 2 years as recommended in owners manuals.

As someone previously suggested in another thread regarding this same problem - disconnect exhaust temporarily - ie I suggest at end of Y pipe (the engine side of cat.) - to see if it runs better. Need to systematically go through stuff and eliminate each possibility.

Headgasket issues in EJ2.5's has been well documented recognised and experienced universally. THe early EJ25D (DOHC) was the worst with internal headgasket leaks leading to overheating if not recognised and compromised big end bearings if over heated. The later EJ251 / EJ253 (SOHC) (1999-2012) weren't as bad but still had predominantly external oil / coolant leaks - fixed with resurfacing heads and using MLS (turbo) multi layer steel head gaskets. This is universally recognised as the best way to do a better more successful headgasket replacement job on EJ2.5's

The high tension leads ie 1 coil to distributor and the 4 cap to spark plugs leads could be tired also - wouldn't hurt to replace these. (can break down under load and when get warm also - similar to a failing coil) As you mentioned - check condition of distributor cap and rotor as well. . Also as I suggested in previous post here, it would be worthwhile taking the distributor apart ie taking off the plate holding coil/s and check the operation of the centrifugal advance weights and shaft (perhaps sticking needing lubrication , located under this coil plate) and the operation of the vacuum advance unit as well. It may be easier to take the distrubutor out to do this, but before removing - leave rotor on and mark exact position its pointing to (with tipex or whiteout is good) so that when replacing it, the rotor is in the correct position for ignition timing. You will have to reset ignition timing if removing / moving distributor and or removing coil plate - with timing light ( 20 degrees BTDC for SPFI - timing light on no.1 lead)

If the exhaust / cat. isn't restricted Another thing to consider that if your car has a traditional ignition set up, like the earlier EA82s ie distributor / coil ignition . The ignition coil could be faulty - they do funny intermittant things when failing, especially under load and when they warm up

If it has a carb the 2nd choke - this may not be opening /working

if it has a distributor it could be the centrifugal weights / shaft could be at fault that advance the ignition timing - it may not be advancing ignition timing enough or ignition timing also could be retarded (sluggish acceleration and backfiring if really retarded)

Agree have never ever replaced one of these. Also agree the problem is that the drain plugs are over tightened and crush the washers. - it's only a drain plug and only needs to be nipped tight with a ring spanner holding it in the middle. -Not a socket and bar / torque wrench

A little Low range whine is normal - having owned 5 different D/R Subarus over 26 years see signiture below. but agree if pulling acute angles -may need a little more oil in gearbox.