subnz

Any Subaru with headgasket issues could / may consume water internally through combustion chambers out the exhaust if there is no evidence of external coolant loss otherwise - when engine / exhaust up to running temperature examine exhaust emissions. Had an EA82 that did this. If you saw evidence of coolant colouring / staining on the underside of something then there is a probably / coolant leak from somewhere above

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Leone

All GL / GF spec Leone EA82 wagons here in NZ had the touring wagon stepped roof Also the EA82T turbo versions were of higher spec here and got the touring wagon roof also. and also the later ie 83/84 GL spec EA81 4MT D/R had the touring wagon stepped roof as well. My previous 86 GF Leone EA82 5MT D/R wagon in 2009 - one of the best cars ever owned apart from the paint on it here - faded / wore badly. With the introduction of 2nd hand JDM car imports from Japan in the 80s there was a lot more variation of types. The lower spec DL here had the flat roof no tach more basic seats (no rear head rests) etc etc particularly after the introduction of the Legacy in 89 there were more DL's, the Leone was rebranded then as an Omega til 94 when the Impreza replaced it.

Agree WRX platform is dated Would like to see BRZ 2 turboed and AWD (STIed) with electronic trickery in centre diff similar to what Prodrive did in the UK with the Prodrive P2 ( with Impreza STI engine drive train)

All that is necessary is to clean up the face of the flywheel in resurfacing it, to take out score marks etc, so that the new clutch takes up smoothly on engagement. If the flywheel isn't refaced / resurfaced, there is a good chance that the new clutch will chatter / shudder on engagement.

Yeah we didn't take to heart too much the 4s got biffed and 186s the best Holden 6 got bolted in and the not as good 202 as well. Every thing else since not as good 173/202s not that great (agricultural compared to Japanese engines) - had one that seized for no reason - notorious for taking tops off pistons ( 3.8 V6 is a Buick engine - NOT Holden) The best Commodore 6 was the 87 VL with 2.0 and 3.0 Nissan 6s (fitted for unleaded fuel use), before Holden sourced the 3.8 Buick V6 ( 88/89) that would run on unleaded fuel. Not sure about later 3.6 V6s Was put off Holdens by my experience. Went Japanese 28 years ago with a 78 Toyota SE 2000 Corona then 6 Subarus since over the last 26 years. We had a 72 HQ 202 Holden from new - basic / agricultural at best - ran out of breath at 60 / 70 mph (100/110kph) Next car 74 Nissan 260C (2.6) much smoother refined better car, OHC alloy head freer flowing manifolds / exhaust system freer revving ( 6000rpm) would vapourise the Holden after 60mph - always had trouble holding at 60mph / 100kph always creeping up to 75mph / 120kph - had a really nice cammy burble exhaust note. Holden sounded like a truck. (holden quicker to 60mph - 100kph though) Anything is possible as we don't have a car assembly industry to protect , parts from ex JDM cars get imported, as well as complete cars , so its a case of Google searching importers / wreckers.

Correct EA82 SOHC has hydraulic tappets - quieter running engine than EA81 OHV with solid lifters. Yep some early EJ18s came with carbs or SPFI - not good for fuel economy . Remember driving a 90 5MT TI Legacy 1.8 Wagon once and it struggled to do 30mpg (imperial) [ 9 litres / 100km] on a trip driving it at 100kph Hearing that (normal within tolerance limits) tappet noise on an EA81 is kind of reassuring - bomb proof simplicity / reliability

Never worried about tappet noise in an OHV with solid lifters (EA81) - That is part of what they are. Its more concerning not to hear (any reasonable within tolerance limits - not excessive ) tappet noise ie no valve tappet clearance gaps. Never touched / worried about tappets on present Brumby or 1st 83 Subaru EA81 wagon owned 26 years ago - no issues.

If the high / low range lever isn't held / secured in its respective position of hi or lo range ie if in between the two positions there will be a false neutral and that is one of the recommendations not to do this.(to hold the lever between hi /lo range) All that's required is to use the clutch while shifting ranges while driving in a straight line is best..

The 86 - 89 EA82T RX2 (Leone /Omega - Rally) coupe had a full time AWD dual range 5MT (20% reduction) with a centre locking diff (electric actuator / button) and rear LSD And the SVX coupe in 1991 with VTD and VDC? Superior to any other Subaru AWDs until VDC was introduced in 1998 into some 2nd Gen Outbacks / 3rd gen Legacys (BE / /BH platforms) apart from some H6 2nd gen Outbacks that got rear LSDs along with earlier Legacy GTs, Not sure about Forester XTs or GL10 Wagons in US. Would imagine the Foresters would be the standard full time AWD setup of a centre diff with a viscous coupling in manual versions and the multiplate transfer clutch in Auto versions. The GL10's if full time AWD would have been similar Don't know for sure but maybe Forester XT got a rear LSD.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Symmetrical_All_Wheel_Drive

If that is true - why haven't I had a big end bearing failure in 25 years with owning 5 H4s? In fact have had NO mechanical internal issues / failures with any of my Subaru engines. 2 reasons why there haven't been issues: 1/ changing oil/filter at regular intervals (using mineral oils - NOT synthetic oils) 2/ flushing the cooling system (including the heater core) every 2 years as recommended by Subaru

All my previous / present H4s (EJ251 Ea82s Ea81s) used to / do knock away intermittantly / quietly, on idle - didn't worry about it . (not to be confused with hydraulic lifter noise or the continuous knocking of imminent big end bearing failure)

i wouldn't think octane rating of fuel would be much of an issue - i would imagine regular would be fine , that's what I would use. Ea engines are fairly robust haven't heard of any / many valve issues from using unleaded fuel. Setting the correct ignition timing for type of fuel used would be the main issue . (10 degrees BTDC @ 700/800rpm with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged for EA71 using 87 fuel - according to my Haynes manual after reading more thoroughly ) The best thing would be to tweek the ignition timing ie retard it by 2 degrees if it is still detonating a bit when accelerating from low rpms in a high gear.

Older engines designed for leaded fuel, will run on unleaded 93 ok but its harder on the valves seats they don't last as long. Engines since the late 70's / early 80's designed for unleaded fuel use, have hardened valve seats and don't have this issue. There are fuel additives available to replace lead to protect valves / seats in older engines http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/valve-shield https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antiknock_agent http://www.city-data.com/forum/automotive/1074988-old-automobiles-running-unleaded-gasoline.html Avgas (100 RON most commonly used) still has lead additives (tetra-ethyl lead) as aircraft engine integrity is more critical. (used in racing engines also) The EA71 ( from 1976 - 1994 ) with a compression ration of 9.0:1 should run ok on regular fuel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EA_engine#EA-71 Just because it doesn't have a catalytic converter doesn't mean you can't use unleaded fuel As the Ea 71 was produced from the mid 70's (1976 ) I would imagine it would be ok without unleaded regular fuel. Just read though my manuals and there was no info on fuel use / type etc for EA71 / 81

Agree one of several things tyres, wheel bearings, drive shaft universal joints / carrier bearing, cvs / axles (the replacements could be faulty) , transfer clutch etc, bearing going in rear diff (think GTs had LSD rear diff) , exhaust vibrating / resonating against something , worn rubber mounts somewhere. Agree the clunking could be the driveshaft / rear diff. Noises can travel and fool you so it pays to investigate all possibilities. ps had an old RWD car that used to resonate at 55mph will no passengers in back seat but used to go away when passengers in back Tracked it down to worn lower rubber shockie mounts. And exhaust vibrating / resonating against something on another occasion.

Agree Toyota transmissions are much stronger and are the way to go if serious about / wanting strength. People here in NZ bolted on Toyota Celica 5spds with heavier timken bearings / adaptor plates behind small block chev V8s (superior , strong - nicer shifting than agricultural GM 4spds )

Considering salt affected vehicles, the 70s and 80s Subarus were good for rust., so not many good ones left now on the road. ie Gen 1 and Gen 2 (Gen 3s fared better - apart from around front and rear windows in particular ) Those in a dry, low humidity climates that didn't come into contact with salt fared better. 1st 83 GL wagon JDM started to surface rust along sills under doors before selling in 1995 2nd 86 GL wagon NZDM rusted around windscreen - put off the road in 2009,failed NZ 6 monthly road worthiness / compliance test for that - regarded as structural. NZ authorities take a hard line on rust affected vehicles. Any rust around door frames around wheel arches in subframe, roof, around front / rear windows regarded as structural will be put off the road unless welded / repaired. Salt isn't applied to NZ roads because of the potential damage it would cause to the vehicle fleet. Roads are gritted (course sand) and CMA (calcium magnesium acetate deicing agent) is sprayed on /applied in drier areas. Have people lined up waiting to buy my 87 Brumby (Brat) - no rust in original condition - came from one of the driest places in NZ. (Alexandra) It's not for sale as it was my late fathers so has special value. People aren't prepared to pay for what its worth considering condition / miles (130K) anyway. So not prepared to give it away.

I've got people lined up waiting to buy my Brumby (Brat) (It has no rust) but its not for sale as it was my late fathers. and too good to give away to people who aren't prepared pay what its worth - considering condition / 130 K miles etc

Its a case of familiarity . If you don't have it you don't miss it. Now I'm keen to try an upgrade- don't like the fact I'm missing out on low end.

Sure agree - not as economical and more emissions without extra emissions plumbing and but more simple and less to go wrong with heat / age and less hp lost. If I was in the US I would probably do the same thing - throw away the hitachi and bolt on a weber but not necessary here as they run fine in this simple form. Has "summer / winter" manual lever operated air intake flap control. If carb icing - a reminder switch air intake flap to "winter" (warm air drawn off exhaust manifold via flexible hose) My 1987 NZDM Ea81 Brumby (Brat) has breaker points distributor (tried to post pictures from 2 sources but this site doesn't seem to like me doing that) I'm guessing the reason why the NZ authorities here didn't require the full emissions treatment and electronic breakerless distributors is that it was a truck / pickup so requirements were probably less stringent. But Gen 3 GL carbed cars here had breakerless electronic dstributors at this time. We didn't see fuel injection until after 89 in some GL models although Turbos then were fuel injected. This was the original setup for earlier models here as well. 1988 on .- most all new cars here in NZ from that the time were fuel injected and electronic managed ignitions.

I'm guessing the reason that many have issues is because of the extra emission stuff added to satisfy US emissions .- hoses etc failing from heat / age. The hitachi carb is a good carb but has been ruined by the addition of all this stuff and is destined to fail. Had had 3 of them, 2 EA81s (still have Brat ) and EA82 and no major issues apart from messing up a rebuild when rekitted one on an EA82 Had to buy another 2nd hand replacement one. One learns from mistakes made. Also they don't like being messed with. (and had one EA82 with auto choke - horrible) Also they have been been ruined by the addition of automatic chokes. These are horrible and need to be ripped off and thrown away as far as possible. Reason not good for cold starting as they over choke and fast idle not high enough and as soon as blip the throttle - loose fast idle. Manual choke far superior especially for cold winter starts - can adjust / bend linkages for a better / higher fast idle. Set all mine to 2000rpm on full choke. Have seen imported second hand imported US carburettored engines here (Chev V8s) and we shake ours heads in disbelief. This emissions stuff here gets ripped off and thrown away.

Not very high in standard form (EA81) Other reasons - 2 valves / cylinder single port intake and exhaust port heads / small shared manifolds (limitations to air flow increases for limited performance gains) - similar for EA82s - OHV limits high RPMs also - Agree, 3 main bearing crank - bottom end not as strong for high rpms (EA82 similar) IF serious about performance gains , EJ engines with 4 valves / per cylinder bigger manifolds, better for air flow increases / performance gains - especially ones with 4 port heads DOHCs, with freer revving OHCs, better for higher rpms. Also 5 main bearings on crankshaft - bottom end stronger for higher rpms. Wouldn't and didn't bother to try and modify my EA81 / 82s for those reasons. The only one I would consider modifying is , if had an RX2 AWD 5MT D/R with EA82T would replace heads with 4 port heads / manifolds etc upgraded internals etc ,do it properly. Power gains from 115hp (stock) up to 200hp Also EA82 OHCs are more free revving so a better platform to start off with than clatterly old school OHV EA81s best left stock. PS EA81s are mid rangers ie work best keeping motor spinning between 2500rpm and 3500rpm (ie max torque at 2400rpm max hp at 4800rpm Nothing to be gained in exceeding 5000rpm just to prove a point apart from trying to destroy an engine .that isn't designed for high rpms. Ea81s are bomb proof simplicity (gear driven cam) but over revving them is a sure way to try and kill them.

Hi, I am new to this forum. Also, does this model has 4WD HI and LOW? Because when I push the lever all the way down the car moves normally, If i push the lever to the middle it just revs when I let off the clutch, and if I push the lever all the way up I can feel more traction and the RPMS are higher so I am assuming that is 4WD HI. ??? Thank you! And sorry if my english is poor, Greetings from Baja, Mexico. It depends on which transmission you have fitted to your car. If its 4WD part time selectable hi/lo range Dual ratio selector lever Up is for low range 4WD / off road / snow / hills (increase in Rpm for speed) the middle position 4WD Hi range for on road snow ice etc Down is high range 2WD (FWD) / highway / on road (normal use) In between these positions there are false neutral positions. Its not recommended to hold lever in these positions and try to drive car. Also with these transmissions , it doesn't have a centre differential so. the transmission / drive line binds when when turning on hard surfaces in 4WD . So 4WD should be selected only on slippery surfaces or if driving straight. If it is an AWD hi / lo transmission, down (hi range) is for highway , up (low range) is for offroad etc (increase in rpm for speed) no turning issues as this transmission has a centre differential. The middle position is a false neutral not recommended to drive in this position also

If it has an hitachi carb it could be the accelerator pump not working / spraying fuel properly. Or maybe an ongoing vacumm / air leak somewhere as you mentioned As this is is an intermittent fault, agree also, it could be the ignition coil. Coils do funny things like cause intermittent problems when failing, especially when / after coil warms up, and especially under load.